DISCLAIMER!!! I'm far from an expert, but from the threads I've read over the years I think the problem with the shifters is something like the following..


When you hit the paddle shifter it signals the transmission to change gear, and I don't think the transmission sits in a ready state to change gear hence we get the 500ms odd delay. This means from the time the transmission received the signal, it begins to prepare for a shift and then and executes it. In sports or comfort mode, the transmission decides based on driver input to select a shift point. So if you press the foot flat it will switch at redline. Let's say red line is 6500, when the car hits 6,000 rev's it will signal the transmission and the transmission will prepare to shift and then shift. This shift then occurs conveniently at 6500 on time for red line.

 

I run the 150% valve body from Russel on my SL55 which also has a war Viking built transmission. His name on here is whipplem. He is an expert on these transmissions. He gives great support too. This valve body shifts very firm. When first installed it was a bit harsh on downshifts but as it adapted it smoothed out. Took about 2 days more driving the more it adapts. It shifts consistently and fast. I've had it in for over a year now and it's still the same. Ran a 10.96 in the quarter and it didn't even phase anything. The increased holding pressures help a lot. It is able to hold the power and tq while in gear to keep the transmission from slipping. It's not just the actual shift changes that are improved for more power. Going slow you get a really quick shift that you can feel slightly. To me it's satisfying to feel the shift took place. Partial throttle the upshifts get more firm. WOT upshifts are really firm. Kickdown or using the paddle holding it in letting it downshift while at highway speed it will downshift hard and fast and it just grabs and the car just dips out. Downshifts going slow again you can feel it go into each gear slightly as you come to a stop. Does it the same each time. This setup actually seems to have just about eliminated the whole learning your driving thing the TCM does. For me it shifts just like I explained driving slow light throttle , partial throttle , or wot every time I drive it. The delay in upshift with the paddles still remain in standard and comfort mode that's just something we can't get rid of and really has nothing to do with the valve body itself.(*in manual mode on my car upshifts are pretty instant using the paddles, much improved compared to stock) Downshifts are instant though with the paddles in all modes. As for the upshift lag issue Joe may have solved that with the standalone tcu as I hear that shifts super fast with the paddles. If you don't want to feel shifts this is not for you. If you want to save your clutches from burning up then this is for you.

 

 

Im glad you clarified alot of questions that i had in mind about this valvebody. I currently have this setup on my cls55. Its doing exactly that of what you mentioned. Only downside for me is the delay upshift in manual and sometimes the slight harshness when you get on it!

 

Do you have any tcu tune on your car? If so, do you recommend it? Does it go well together?

 

I have a modified high stall converter from pro tq. 2600-2800. Sent in my stock one to be modified. So when I originally did the whole install I had a tcu tune from Cory to accommodate the higher stall. To see if it makes any difference. I also have a spare tcu with a stock tune. Honestly with this valve body and the rest of my setup I see absolutely no difference between a tuned tcu or a stock tcu. Currently I run the stock tcu. Russell that makes these valve bodies recommends a stock tcu as some tunes will increase pressures too much in combo with the valve body and actually cause damage. Such as binding between shifts. The best setup would be a fresh transmission rebuild one with stock AMG clutches or a build that adds more to the packs like one from shr which uses Alto red eagle and high energy clutches with kolene steels. With this valve body the stock double sided clutches and stock amount in each pack will hold plenty of power easily. That with a stock tune and stock converter or high stall if you want it would be a very nice daily driver setup that could be used to race as well. I would not recommend putting this on an old transmission that has a lot of wear. If you have das you can look at your adaptations to determine what your tcu is doing to compensate for clutch wear. You want to see everything toward the negative. Hope this helps.

 

I just want to clarify that we have not run into any problems with any tunes that I know of. But I advise that you ask your tuner what was done to the tcm. There is no way for me to know what any given tuner is doing on a tune. So a tuned TCM does not really mean anything. That could be from shift points that would have no effect on pressures to who knows what.
Also if you transmission is in good working order a valve body will work fine regardless of age but if your transmission is shot a valve body will not fix that. It may help keep it going but it is not a bottle of magic that can fix a worn out transmission.
Additional clutches will help hold more power. But it also will make it more harsh. I have people making well into the 700whp mark and above on the 150% vb on stock transmissions. If it shifts firmly then there is not a benefit to a built transmission in addition to the valve body. If it is still slipping or slow to shift it may just be your transmission is shot or you are making a lot more power or your engine tune is lying about how much torque it is making and no amount of clutches and valve body upgrades will help.

 

from what i've discussed with mercedes master technicians as well as a friend who custom codes modules...they both state that you can increase the shift speed/harshness but beyond that you won't be able to do much with the factory computer. also, as stated, with increased harshness you'll wear out parts of the transmission quicker is what they told me.

my transmission per master tech stated, shifting too fast/hard, so the computer is actually adjusting and tapering it off.

best bet would be programmable Transmission Controller Computer if looking beyond a valve body.

 

Thanks brotha

 

I have a donated valve body from a brother member who has gone to clutch. Via MT.
past experience in valve body mods have me believing decrease accumulator port size and increase control pressure are easy.
Hence Maybach solenoids are the quickest mod but pricey.

Cheers, Gator

 

There are others that run 9's in the quarter consistently with this valve body.

 

With all due respect, increased shift speed does not wear out clutches. It does the opposite. Slip and friction create heat and that is what wears out a transmission. The tcu does not taper off anything. It adapts to a desired fill time and also the ramp rate to a desired shift time. This is in simplest of terms. The tcu has limitations on how much it can adapt. Then it stops. So the trick is to get it to soften things a little for daily and then override the heavy throttle areas.

 

There is not an accumulator on these and modifying them is not easy. There is no such thing as Maybach solenoids.

 

It's inevitable that someday I will have to rebuild my transmission. I sure hope you are still around for advice when that day comes!

 

Here is a video link to a quarter mile pass in my SL with this valve body. You can hear how quick it shifts and you can see how great it works.

 

Send it to me I love building automatics !

 

[QUOTE=dfrat;7832625]There are others that 9's in the quarter consistently with this valve body.[/QUOTEvid ok I was able to upload ,this is 150 valve body https

 

Maybe I will, where do you live? There's currently nothing wrong with it, I just don't plan on selling the car, so someday it will go or I'll preempt it.

Nice vids you guys!

 

I am in Connecticut.

 

Ha, Connecticut is on my way to... well most everywhere.

 

Have you ran the VB? From VRP.

 

I think the VRP valve body is a SGA- aka sound German Auto Valve body.

 

Right, I have had it for a few months now and I love it!

 

wow that’s really great to hear.. I just ordered mine from Russel..

do you have a TCU tune with it or no?

 

You made a good choice. Russel did some good work here. I looked for a valve body for a while and ended up getting one from VRP and talked to russel about specs etc. I love this valve body a little harsher but calm, and quick buttery shifts when you want them. Ooo she makes me smile lol. Also do a tranny flush with new fluid, I used liqui moly atf, and I would get the bigger tranny pan from VRP. That looks nice and is supposed to keep the fluid cooler since it has some heat sink cooler fins, especially if you get the bigger than stock pan it holds 2qt more. Also changed all my solinoids even the old blue tops, made a big difference and my conductor plate and plug. Also reset adaptations. Lastly, Do not use any sleeve kits lol idk why vrp sells a sleeve kit with it and no tcu tune after doing some research people said it felt too harsh and I believe just the valve body is all that's needed. She shifts quick, up and down! If your not satisfied maybe you could get a custom tune but speaking with russel, even he said it's not worth it.