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2005 E55 AMG cranks for .1 sec, starts when TCM disconnected
Bough the car in the winter and had it in my heated garage. Drove it occasionally and notice that it would just click. After hours of research on the web and this site I checked fuses, battery jumped in the trunk, Neutral and Park attempts. Everything pointed to the started. I replaced it and still same issue, inset key, turn to start and then just click or short engine spin like less than a second. No ODBII codes! Found out because of desperation that the car will start and continue running if the starter is jumped. Yes I ran 2 wires from the started in order to attach to a switch in the cab to start manually, after the auto start fail event. (I only use the manual start only after the failed start attempt by the auto start).
I just recently noticed that after the start attempt, when jumping starter occasionally will not start with 3 -5 sec crank. Turn off car and repeat and car starts right up with the manual start.
As I understand the starting circuit all it needs is the signal to start the car. When I first got the car I would hold start for 1 sec and the starting circuit takes over and keeps on cranking until car is started or max 5 sec or so. I anticipate this circuit needs certain conditions to keep cranking. I imagine that one of the conditions are failing after the initial start signal. All Conditions are met in order to get start and Clicks or tries to start for less than a sec. Something in that logic is not letting the crank continue till start or the preset time limit.
Any ideas how this can be fixed?
Thanks.
Last edited by pasta; 11-08-2019 at 09:16 AM.
Reason: found issue
My 1999 C43 has done this for years and it drives me insane. I've also replaced damn near everything except the ECU and nothing fixes it. I was only recently told to check ground strap and haven't checked yet.
After hours of searching I am down to 2 items, bad POS 3 on the EIS or bad Front SAM.
The EIS is 6-800 dolars plus key programing without labor, the SAM is about 100 used.
After hours of searching I am down to 2 items, bad POS 3 on the EIS or bad Front SAM.
The EIS is 6-800 dolars plus key programing without labor, the SAM is about 100 used.
Bough the car in the winter and had it in my heated garage. Drove it occasionally and notice that it would just click. After hours of research on the web and this site I checked fuses, battery jumped in the trunk, Neutral and Park attempts. Everything pointed to the started. I replaced it and still same issue, inset key, turn to start and then just click or short engine spin like less than a second. No ODBII codes! Found out because of desperation that the car will start and continue running if the starter is jumped. Yes I ran 2 wires from the started in order to attach to a switch in the cab to start manually, after the auto start fail event. (I only use the manual start only after the failed start attempt by the auto start).
I just recently noticed that after the start attempt, when jumping starter occasionally will not start with 3 -5 sec crank. Turn off car and repeat and car starts right up with the manual start.
As I understand the starting circuit all it needs is the signal to start the car. When I first got the car I would hold start for 1 sec and the starting circuit takes over and keeps on cranking until car is started or max 5 sec or so. I anticipate this circuit needs certain conditions to keep cranking. I imagine that one of the conditions are failing after the initial start signal. All Conditions are met in order to get start and Clicks or tries to start for less than a sec. Something in that logic is not letting the crank continue till start or the preset time limit.
Any ideas how this can be fixed?
Thanks.
Have you watched the start process through STAR? or just through an OBD reader for codes?
No ODB2 codes. I don't have the Star. I did buy the multi disk VMImage, I hope that has it on it!
Probably a dumb question, but you replaced the solenoid when you replaced the starter, yes? What about your CPS? If the car starts to turn over, it's probably not an EIS issue. If you give me your VIN I'll update these for your car (if there's a difference).
Last edited by equitiesguy; 10-28-2019 at 11:47 AM.
You listed a lot of trouble shooting but just to be sure you are saying it starts when you jump it. First thing would definitely to be look at batteries/alternator so hopefully you did that first?
Did you check trunk battery voltage with car off, and with car on?
Did you test remaining CCA of your battery?
I assume you are referring to the solenoid on the starter, yes it came as a set. The CPS, I have not replaced yet. The car starts up just fine when I jump the starter. I got so frustrated I installed push button switch to start the car by jumping out the starter. It never downed on me that the CPS could cause start stop signal after 1/2 or 1/4 of sec latter. The Car attempts to start then it will not attempt again until I try switching the key on off and trrying 3-5 times. I found out that if the start attempt works once I can get it to try again only by switching the ignition off/on, moving the Trans from P to N and back to P, switching the key off again and trying to start.
I understand that the CPS would not allow car to start if it does not notice the crank move, but should it move 1/10s latter?
Yes I have tested the Battery since this is the main cause of these start issues! I did hook up in parallel multiple batteries to troubleshoot this issue. I did purchase a replacement battery from Costco, charged it up and made sure that the voltage is at 12.7v on the dash in diag mode.
I did switched up the starter relay in the front fuse box. I did unplunged the front SAM, removed all fuses and relays, took plastic covers of and looked for burnt connections on the fuses and relays, inspected the PCB on the SAM and looked for any signs of water damage or burn off traces or components.
I removed the starter and Alternator cable going to the passenger floor panel, check it for wear and any signs of corrosion, also checked the resistance of the wire to make sure the crimp connectors on on good and not corroded.
I replaced the starter with an aftermarket starter and made sure that the connections are clean and tight.
If it is the CPS I will scream. Why is the engine allowed to run is the CPS is bad?
Yes I have tested the Battery since this is the main cause of these start issues! I did hook up in parallel multiple batteries to troubleshoot this issue. I did purchase a replacement battery from Costco, charged it up and made sure that the voltage is at 12.7v on the dash in diag mode.
I did switched up the starter relay in the front fuse box. I did unplunged the front SAM, removed all fuses and relays, took plastic covers of and looked for burnt connections on the fuses and relays, inspected the PCB on the SAM and looked for any signs of water damage or burn off traces or components.
I removed the starter and Alternator cable going to the passenger floor panel, check it for wear and any signs of corrosion, also checked the resistance of the wire to make sure the crimp connectors on on good and not corroded.
I replaced the starter with an aftermarket starter and made sure that the connections are clean and tight.
If it is the CPS I will scream. Why is the engine allowed to run is the CPS is bad?
I assumed so, but doesn't hurt to check ;-P
The failed CPS will usually result in a crank but no start. Which it sound like you get some times? But some times on the first start just clicks? The clicking but no cranking would not be due to the CPS. The "common replacement parts" thread sticky has an amazon link for the CPS I believe.
Quick question about the start system. When I got the car it would just click once in a while. Then It got worse and I would have to switch the gearshift to N to get it to try to crank and start. It got to the point where It would only click and no start. I checked the battery, jumped the battery with a charge/start charger, jumped the battery with a couple good batteries from my boat. I finally broke down and purchased an aftermarket starter and installed it. Same thing, click no start. Replaced the start relay in front SAM. checked connections on starter, battery, passenger floor panel. Nothing worked, after about couple weeks I was checking the starter and jumped the terminals and it STARTED! What the Hell is going on here! I installed push start switch for the starter once the start attempted has failed.
So when I purchased the car I noticed that when the start initiate on start key POS3, regardless if I held it in start position for 1 or 5 sec the car start system would take over. Now it does not want to take over the start and it only clicks. The VIN of the car is WDBUF76J44A401428.
So my train of though is that the SAM or EIS is not continuing with the start signal. After the 1st atempt to start it will not allow another start until I switch off the ignition, move the Trans to N and back to P again, switch the ignition and then it attempts to start again by click for 1/2 or 1/4 of sec.
Quick question about the start system. When I got the car it would just click once in a while. Then It got worse and I would have to switch the gearshift to N to get it to try to crank and start. It got to the point where It would only click and no start. I checked the battery, jumped the battery with a charge/start charger, jumped the battery with a couple good batteries from my boat. I finally broke down and purchased an aftermarket starter and installed it. Same thing, click no start. Replaced the start relay in front SAM. checked connections on starter, battery, passenger floor panel. Nothing worked, after about couple weeks I was checking the starter and jumped the terminals and it STARTED! What the Hell is going on here! I installed push start switch for the starter once the start attempted has failed.
So when I purchased the car I noticed that when the start initiate on start key POS3, regardless if I held it in start position for 1 or 5 sec the car start system would take over. Now it does not want to take over the start and it only clicks. The VIN of the car is WDBUF76J44A401428.
So my train of though is that the SAM or EIS is not continuing with the start signal. After the 1st atempt to start it will not allow another start until I switch off the ignition, move the Trans to N and back to P again, switch the ignition and then it attempts to start again by click for 1/2 or 1/4 of sec.
I'm actually wondering if you just have a bad neutral safety switch.
I called my local SLC Mercedes Dealership, The Service Manager said that this car does not have NSS. I will have to crawl underneath it to see if I can see a NSS.
Please get a mbII scanner and check transmission interlock signal if it shows closed it's your conductor plate. I also changed the starter. You can pull the connector on the transmission and if the car starts it' the conductor plate.
Please get a mbII scanner and check transmission interlock signal if it shows closed it's your conductor plate. I also changed the starter. You can pull the connector on the transmission and if the car starts it' the conductor plate.
I called my local SLC Mercedes Dealership, The Service Manager said that this car does not have NSS. I will have to crawl underneath it to see if I can see a NSS.
In this case I'm referring to the shifter selector mechanism. All cars have something to keep it from starting in gear. I can't remember what the E/CLS uses, and whether it's a module acting as a NSS.
You can see these types of things in STAR in one second when you're watching the car attempt to start.
I received the MBII in the mail. Went to check for faults, none!
In Transmission mode there is a Starter lockout contact. This is acting like so:
Y3/6s1(Starter lockout contact) OPEN. I try to start and 1/2 sec click attempt to crank. then CLOSED.
I move it to Neutral still closed, back to Park then it is OPEN. At this point one needs to go back to POS2 on the key then 3 before allowed to try again.
So maybe it is this that is bad. Can anyone with MBII please verify? Please select start for 1 sec and note the status. Does it change to Closed? What happens when you move key to pos2 then back to pos3? I think the status should change back to OPEN without changing the gearshift to N then back to P!
Looks like it might have an answer from the start procedure up above! The ME control unit is supposed to take over the start signal and initiate the started, keep start signal engaged until engine speed gets to 400-700 rpm. This is not happening, once the click happens the start signal is lost or start procedure is canceled or something else is here at hand!
Looks like it might have an answer from the start procedure up above! The ME control unit is supposed to take over the start signal and initiate the started, keep start signal engaged until engine speed gets to 400-700 rpm. This is not happening, once the click happens the start signal is lost or start procedure is canceled or something else is here at hand!
Damn just a shot in the dark have you checked the me for corrosion or it's connectors? I don't think it's common for w211s but quite a few other models it's not uncommon to see a overheated pin or signs of water damage
Yes I checked the grounds and any signs of water damage on the ecu. Yes I have an Electronics Engineering degree and I am familiar with the Circuit boards, traces, good vs bad solder joints and such. I do not the equipment to look at the digital and analog signals nor am i set up to repair circuits.
06-21-2019, 01:59 PM
