When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put a big rear mount turbo on my n/a cl55 swap, the car absolutely flies on the highway. need to do smaller twin turbos or something for a more “daily driving” powerband
I put a big rear mount turbo on my n/a cl55 swap, the car absolutely flies on the highway. need to do smaller twin turbos or something for a more “daily driving” powerband
what other mods did you do to the engine? Is it stock internals?
what other mods did you do to the engine? Is it stock internals?
I did not make any changes to the engine besides the breathing system, an egr system delete and getting the throttle body welded for an easier place to connect cold piping. I was getting very careless with the tuning and AFR and eventually messed up the rings on cylinder 6, 2002 cl55 n/a amg engine
I am now building a M113/M113K hybrid engine with parts from each engine. Donor engine is a 2006 cls55 k engine
I did not make any changes to the engine besides the breathing system, an egr system delete and getting the throttle body welded for an easier place to connect cold piping. I was getting very careless with the tuning and AFR and eventually messed up the rings on cylinder 6, 2002 cl55 n/a amg engine
I am now building a M113/M113K hybrid engine with parts from each engine. Donor engine is a 2006 cls55 k engine
okay cool, which parts do you use for the new engine then ?
okay cool, which parts do you use for the new engine then ?
I know the m113k rods are the way to go... m113k pistons are said to be stronger, but the shape of the piston head gives less power because the shape reduces compression
m113k cams are the way to go for running boost, the m113k also has stronger valve springs.
Will need the n/a crank pulley since there is no supercharger, will likely use the n/a engine intake manifold, front timing cover and I need the oil pump and pans from my n/a motor to fit either motor in my chassis
I know the m113k rods are the way to go... m113k pistons are said to be stronger, but the shape of the piston head gives less power because the shape reduces compression
m113k cams are the way to go for running boost, the m113k also has stronger valve springs.
Will need the n/a crank pulley since there is no supercharger, will likely use the n/a engine intake manifold, front timing cover and I need the oil pump and pans from my n/a motor to fit either motor in my chassis
Nice to know, are you going with the n/a pistons or the m113k pistons?
Nice to know, are you going with the n/a pistons or the m113k pistons?
really not sure yet
that question is going to require further research on the steel used to make both pistons. Basically I have to decide what specific kind of power levels and boost I want before the engine parts can even be ordered
the parts are just expensive to the point it’s foolish to buy things you won’t end up using
that question is going to require further research on the steel used to make both pistons. Basically I have to decide what specific kind of power levels and boost I want before the engine parts can even be ordered
the parts are just expensive to the point it’s foolish to buy things you won’t end up using
No steel in the pistons....just aluminum.
It all comes down to compression ratio. More compression will require more octane to run safely.
1. Not to sound smart, but the fact you said steel pistons, move slow and cautious. The last mass produced engine I'm aware of in America to use "cast iron" not steel which has great lubricating character was the Pontiac straight 6. Cast Iron and steel for that matter would be extremely heavy. Iron pistons cracked and as rpm raised were counter productive.
2. If building an engine and NOT just grabbing a cheaper low mileage "picked" engine why limit yourself to OEM parts. The k cam is awfully mild for a build, the springs@ OEM prices should be upgraded. You'd buy mass production 25y old designed rods new? I'm just a little confused on why you'd piece together a new engine with NOS parts and prices.
3. Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Others have been here and done some of this...just follow their recipes unless going wild like OP.
1. Not to sound smart, but the fact you said steel pistons, move slow and cautious. The last mass produced engine I'm aware of in America to use "cast iron" not steel which has great lubricating character was the Pontiac straight 6. Cast Iron and steel for that matter would be extremely heavy. Iron pistons cracked and as rpm raised were counter productive.
2. If building an engine and NOT just grabbing a cheaper low mileage "picked" engine why limit yourself to OEM parts. The k cam is awfully mild for a build, the springs@ OEM prices should be upgraded. You'd buy mass production 25y old designed rods new? I'm just a little confused on why you'd piece together a new engine with NOS parts and prices.
3. Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Others have been here and done some of this...just follow their recipes unless going wild like OP.
I’m not ordering new oem springs and rods, it’s not too difficult to find a m113k long block minus the supercharger for $1000 or less. Then you have a plethora of parts to use
what I am replacing with new oem are the piston rings, gaskets, bearings etc. it’s not the cheapest rebuild but with my Mercedes employee discount, there’s no better time to rebuild a m113. Ive fixed over 1000 Mercedes the last 18 months, I know the pistons are not normally steel, like I said it had been a long week when I made that semantically incorrect error in my post
people used to say these engines are bulletproof but those days are ending, as you suggest it’s an aging platform. If the engine was run in colder climates there’s a gasket behind the front timing cover that’s becoming known for going bad, oil could mix with coolant In that instance. Not many people are tearing down these bottom ends without evidence of worn bearings, and if I had a dollar for every leaking rear main seal on a m113 I’d have the excess funds to get the block sleeves for stronger pistons lol
you think I should stick to the formula and follow others footsteps? Probably too late for that when I swapped in an amg engine 8 years ago or last year when I got bored enough to throw a semi-truck sized turbo in my w215... the idea of going and buying a m113k car and doing a pulley, tune and split cooling just really bores me after seeing it over and over again for 15 years
You should go with the Comp beehive springs and will probably cost the same amount of money but much better than stock.
Leaking seals don't mean anything...just a time/wear part that is cheap to rectify.
These engines really are fantastic in stock form though as I have learned over the years.
Also the Twin Turbo idea is great and always wanted to do it but that bower whine ........love it !!! LOL
You should go with the Comp beehive springs and will probably cost the same amount of money but much better than stock.
Leaking seals don't mean anything...just a time/wear part that is cheap to rectify.
These engines really are fantastic in stock form though as I have learned over the years.
Also the Twin Turbo idea is great and always wanted to do it but that bower whine ........love it !!! LOL
i don’t think the upgraded springs are in the budget for this current build
i have two stripped down m113’s in the garage right now, one is being built with wider ring gaps, and MAYBE some arp hardware. Otherwise it’s going to be mostly oem m113k components (at least inside of the engine)
that’s my current twin turbo project, I am only really aiming for 600hp tops. Maybe a little more if I convert to e85. It doesn’t sound like much but 600hp from quickly spooling twin turbos will be a lot more rewarding than 600hp on the stock supercharger in regards to heatsoak, intake temps, parasitic supercharger draw, continual heavy throttle, etc. basically 11psi on turbos will go a lot further than 11 psi from the stock blower
the other block however is going to be a long term project I believe, I want to sleeve that motor, custom pistons etc. that engine I believe will be closer to 800hp
Last edited by ctravis595; 11-21-2020 at 02:26 PM.
You will have more than 600hp with the turbos for sure.
I don't know what the horsepower loss is with the blower itself but can tell you that when I Dyno tested a Paxton Novi 2000 blower at 23lb's of boost and measured the horsepower loss it was around 140 HP just to turn it 6,600rpm and 60,000 impeller speed so you know Turbos would have given that back a lot of that to me for almost free.
Been thinking about the valve springs suggestions the last few weeks... wonder if there isn’t some cheap sport bike valve springs or something that would supplement the m113k springs?
2009 gmc sierra 1500, 2005 C55 AMG, 2007 SL55 AMG.
Originally Posted by ctravis595
Been thinking about the valve springs suggestions the last few weeks... wonder if there isn’t some cheap sport bike valve springs or something that would supplement the m113k springs?
The crank was done in Europe by a friend of mine, should do the trick. The pistons like you said I am still tying to figure out what/who to go with.
would you or your friend know if the m113 crankshafts are typically neutral balanced? Or are they indexed to the flex plate in regards to crank balancing
Found something out the hard way last night that I haven’t seen mentioned anywhere else before, everything was coming along great with the re-assemble and gauging of crank and rod bearings… but it turns out the n/a 55 crank and the 55k crank are not interchangeable.
when attempting to keep my 55 n/a crank with my 55 n/a block(but with 55k pistons and rods, I wanted to keep the pieces together (crank and block combo) as they had performed very well together over 100k miles), I found out the 55 n/a crank actually binds up on the 55k pistons!
the counterweights of the crank actually hit the 55k pistons. The 55k crank has this area shaved away on the counterweights when you look more closely. I thought since both crankshafts weighed exactly 45lbs that they were identically machined pieces but I was incorrect
not a huge hassle but this lack of forethought has cost me 1x set of crank bearing bolts and one pair of con rod stretch bolts since I refuse to re-use the stretch bolts for a rebuild
Through this window in the block you can see exactly what I’m talking about. The counterweights of the crank come too close to the pistons, the piston is the object on the bottom right of the window Another angle of how close the counterweight comes to the crank
05-27-2020, 03:41 AM
