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All industries have these issues to some degree. It definitely pays to explore and understand what is going on. Lawyers too I have recently discovered.
And now the car runs and sounds like ****. Anyone know what they touch when doing this repair. The car sounds louder, like it has an exhaust cutout now. And just doesn't sound the same revving it up. Do they do any programming? Cause the obd2 cover was open.
And now the car runs and sounds like ****. Anyone know what they touch when doing this repair. The car sounds louder, like it has an exhaust cutout now. And just doesn't sound the same revving it up. Do they do any programming? Cause the obd2 cover was open.
Precisely what I (and bbirdwell) was referring to. I don't know specifically what they have to remove on the E class vs the CLS (mine), but the CLS includes the drive shaft, the exhaust, the heat shields, the rear cross member, fuel system plumbing, ... and the interior in the rear of the vehicle.
It's a mess. It's also unnecessary, as it's the plastic in the fuel sending units (filter/pumps) that crack and leak.
Last edited by equitiesguy; Oct 26, 2019 at 04:50 PM.
Sometimes the fuel tank "holes" oval which is why they replace the whole tank. None of those mechanical things are likely to be affecting you. You could check for exhaust leaks if it sounds like a cut out but generally fuel pressure check is the first step followed by scanning for codes.
I have no idea on how to check the fuel pressure? I'll put the car up in the air tomorrow and see what's going on with the exhaust.
The dealer needs to make it right. Like equitiesguy said, they have to remove a *lot* of stuff to drop the tank.
For grins and giggles, you can hook up your pressure gauge to the Schrader valve located on the front of the fuel rail on the passenger side front of the engine. You'll pull the front upper cover and see the valve (looks like a bicycle tube valve) with a cover cap screwed onto it. Pressure should be approximately 5.6 Bar or 82 psi at idle.
Buy about 5ft of 4an braided fuel hose from eBay, get some 1/8npt adapters, wrap fuel guage in a rag and tape it to your windscreen wiper. Quick fuel pressure reading. You will need something to activate the shrader valve (same as bicycle tire valve). I stuck a nail head in the 4an fitting which did it perfectly. Obviously this is a very temporary setup for testing only. I have a couple of posts on it somewhere in here, search my user name.
What we need is a parts list with description. Then after the job we can cross reference to see if the Mercedes parts list matches the list we get here.
I’m out of warranty as well so I was curious to see if I was still on stock pumps. unfortunately it appears I am. Is this leak issue inevitable? I’ve strung a few months together of strictly putting gas in er and was contemplating mods but if this $2k repair it gonna come up eventually I’d probably just save the money
What we need is a parts list with description. Then after the job we can cross reference to see if the Mercedes parts list matches the list we get here.
I’m out of warranty as well so I was curious to see if I was still on stock pumps. unfortunately it appears I am. Is this leak issue inevitable? I’ve strung a few months together of strictly putting gas in er and was contemplating mods but if this $2k repair it gonna come up eventually I’d probably just save the money
If your on stock pumps and (more importantly) fuel sender (filter) I would not worry about a leak. I would be checking the amperage draw of my pumps (as suggested by BBirdwell) to see if they are drawing excessive current, trying to push fuel through a dirty filter. Leak or not...we all need to keep the fuel filter clean or risk burning up your pump(s).
The leaking may or may not happen. It takes many years regardless. +1 on replacing the filter. Your pumps should last the life of the car if it weren't for that issue. Most cars have well and truly missed the mileage to change the filter. I posted a parts list in at least one thread. Beware there are partial zero-emission vehicles and non-partial zero-emission vehicles. They have different sender units. Most US models seem to be the first option. Other markets tended to get the non-PZEV arrangement.
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