kenneyd

After first lowering my car, It ate through a brand new set of continentals within a few thousand miles. All in the inside egde, with pretty bad cupping as well. Being as there is no adjustment other than toe, I bought the crash bolts. However, after measuring my current camber, it became clear that the .3 degrees was not going to be enough. Since I also knew my bushings were shot anyway, i broke down and bought the Kmac adjustable bushings from ECStuning.
Basically my strategy was to max out the camber adjustment, and then lower until the camber was at my personal limit, and while 12 degrees of caster might be good for the autobahn, IMO it makes the steering feel very heavy.

The before specs,
Height ground to fender arc: ~26.5''
Camber L -2.20 R -2.80
Caster L 12.4 R 12.2
toe +.15

After
Height ground to fender arc: ~25.1''
Camber L -1.45 R -1.55
Caster L 8.6 R 8.4
toe -.05

I used the tenhulzen alignment system, while tedious, it wasn't to bad. My lift made it faster, but wasn't necessary. I took two linoleum tiles with grease in between them for as slide plates under the tires, worked great, you can turn the wheel by hand under full weight.
I flipped my front tires inside out just to make sure it wont eat up my next tires. I have a new set of PS91 waiting to go on

NYCDiesel

Looking great man, I need to get my car aligned as well but I wanted to ask which route did you go to lower your car ? Washers, module or coilovers ?? Or maybe some other method ? Car looks great and I'm sure feels so much sportier now with the reduced caster, smart move.

kenneyd

Thanks!
​​​​​​​Ive been using lowering links.