silvertonesx24

Anyone running 10w-60 in their tuned M113K? A tuning shop I've been working with recommended it. They seem to know their stuff, but I did want to check if anyone else had any problems with it before making the switch from 0w-40. I live in a 4 seasons climate and running eurocharged tunes.

SLcharge

No, definitely not, especially in a 4 season climate.

Unless your engine has a high oil consumption, and you are trying to lower that and at the same time increase the oil pressure, don't do it.
The short explanation.
The oil is a lot thicker, al low temp, and you put ekstra strain on the oil pump and drive. Furthermore, the time the oil takes to get to all lubrication points in the engine will increase significantly, due to the higher viscosity.
Increased engine wear can be expected.
60 grade oil you only use in hot climates, and usually only for air cooled engines, like motocross bikes, HD motorcycles, etc.due to their higher working temp. Furthermore 60 grade oil's tend to have a lower viscosity index.
Your engine has an water cooled oil cooler, so if the cooling system is in good shape, your oil will no go beyond 210F, witch is a perfect working temp for a good synthetic oil.
Using 0W-40, is all right, but a 0W30 is even better, as long as it got MB approval 226.5. Use a good brand oil with a high viscosity index. That way the oil stay's thicker at higher temp.

One day, when time permits, I will make a write up on Engine oil.
There are many myth and a lot of misconceptions, but also a lot of knowledge to gain.

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

If your engine is still in factory built form, use the factory recommended oil. If your engine has been built with non factory components and bearing clearances, use whatever oil the builder recommends.

fazxs

The SLR uses 10w50 from factory. Is it recommended to using this on heavily modified M113k?

What are you'll using on your modified engines?

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

The SLR does use a different closed deck block than the other open deck 55k platforms. I haven’t built one of those versions so I can’t comment on other differences or why the recommended oil is different.

On engines I’ve built with aftermarket rods pistons and bearings (with which I run a little more clearance than factory) I still use the Mobil 1 0-40 that the factory recommends without incident.

The oiling and oil drainback system on the 55k engine is excellent. Most engine failures come from either overheating or running lean which binds the top piston ring on either #4 or #8 cylinder, which cracks the ringland off the piston.

Ducatic230

I use Mogul 10w60 in my C55 and my SL55 with no problems. It also takes away the problem of the old valve seals until I change them.

Slider

Nope.

5/40.

kevm14

Has anyone run (my favorite prior to this car) Castrol 0W-30 (affectionately named German Castrol before it was made in Belgium)? It meets 229.5 but is obviously a different weight than the preferred. I kind of came to the conclusion that 5W-40 is good for all but prolonged cold operation which basically covers all of North America. But I am curious because I run the 0W-30 in nearly all my other cars and have for a long time.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

If you look there Mercedes does acknowledge 0W-30 and 5W-30 in addition to 0W-40 and 5W-40 for 229.5 oils. But I stand by what I said above.

And FWIW I never liked the M1 0W-40. The cars I tried it in were clanky on cold starts and I did not like that, even though it sounds ideal on paper. Not a fan. For me, for this car, it's been the LiquiMoly 5W-40 or M1 Formula M 5W-40. Seem like very safe choices to me.

M5 LOL

that's what I run, had great results with it

Dokus

I run 5w40 in four season climate. Done that since the day I was born.