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I've had a similar issue with my C55, happened twice. Both times I jumped into the car in the morning and drove it lazily for 30-45 minutes. Then when I went to pass somebody the car wouldn't downshift at full throttle, had to manually trigger the downshift. I did replace a coil because one of the plug wire connectors started to corrode but the car ran fine because of the dual spark design, I only learned about it during my header install.
The zero timing thing isn't normal, it sounds like it's detecting detonation. Is there a misfire counter on the E55?
I've had a similar issue with my C55, happened twice. Both times I jumped into the car in the morning and drove it lazily for 30-45 minutes. Then when I went to pass somebody the car wouldn't downshift at full throttle, had to manually trigger the downshift. I did replace a coil because one of the plug wire connectors started to corrode but the car ran fine because of the dual spark design, I only learned about it during my header install.
The zero timing thing isn't normal, it sounds like it's detecting detonation. Is there a misfire counter on the E55?
Yeah I had a corroded coil I found during my supercharger/upper intake reseal and replaced it, also ran fine and was hoping maybe I'd see a difference with one less green encrusted spark plug wire
This is the first time I'd thought to check timing, and Tony at RaceIQ agrees, just got logging software and am sending to him once I have some good logs. I've never had a misfire code and the engine is very smooth (although down on power in this instance), so I'm a bit stumped. IATs good, intercooler pump good, new o2 sensors and MAP last year etc etc.
Yeah I had a corroded coil I found during my supercharger/upper intake reseal and replaced it, also ran fine and was hoping maybe I'd see a difference with one less green encrusted spark plug wire
This is the first time I'd thought to check timing, and Tony at RaceIQ agrees, just got logging software and am sending to him once I have some good logs. I've never had a misfire code and the engine is very smooth (although down on power in this instance), so I'm a bit stumped. IATs good, intercooler pump good, new o2 sensors and MAP last year etc etc.
More to come..
I had a similar timing issue a long time ago with a turbo Subaru. I purchased the car from a mechanic that replaced the turbo and rebuilt the engine but it wouldn't run right. The car ended up in that hands of 5 different shops who couldn't figure out the issue. After weeks of run around I plugged in a scan tool and noticed the timing was going to zero, unplugged the knock sensor and the issue went away completely. Pulled off the intercooler to replace the knock sensor only to find that the bolt holding it backed out and allowed it to rattle. Possible that you're dealing with a faulty knock sensor? The E55 has two in the valley of the block. Try monitoring the knock sensor data and see if they are reporting different values.
I had a similar timing issue a long time ago with a turbo Subaru. I purchased the car from a mechanic that replaced the turbo and rebuilt the engine but it wouldn't run right. The car ended up in that hands of 5 different shops who couldn't figure out the issue. After weeks of run around I plugged in a scan tool and noticed the timing was going to zero, unplugged the knock sensor and the issue went away completely. Pulled off the intercooler to replace the knock sensor only to find that the bolt holding it backed out and allowed it to rattle. Possible that you're dealing with a faulty knock sensor? The E55 has two in the valley of the block. Try monitoring the knock sensor data and see if they are reporting different values.
You know the thing that gets me the most? I JUST had the supercharger off and was looking right at those. Did a few searches and could find nowhere that these commonly failed, so I left them be.
I mean, I'll be happy if I find a solution, but will shed tears if these are the culprits...
Figured I'd follow up here for anyone curious, but appears GinDistiller resolved this issue via a TCU tune interestingly. Copy paste of his response:
"Yes, it turned out to be a TCU issue despite no codes, ended up with a tuned TCU from MKUltra and it was flawless after that (and much more enjoyable to drive)." MKUltra being Tj.
Anyone? More info from testing today, I find myself leaning towards a bad torque converter. The chance of a new TCC solenoid being faulty is very low, and if my shift and fill times all look ok it probably isn't a valve body or trans issue either.
Here's the graph that I'm sure some of you are familiar with, I can see w/ driving that my TCC doesn't go to 'OPEN' until I'm almost at a dead stop. Computer shows 'SLIPPING' all the time once the car gets moving. Verified that at 1000 rpm of trans output speed and my foot off the gas completely, TCU still shows 'SLIPPING' when it should be open, and you can feel it unlock as the car is almost at a stop. I'm wondering if something is just buggered in the torque converter and causing all sorts of odd pressure.
I know mine's an '03 and it did have the Valeo radiator, however I changed it out when I got it and had my fluid tested - completely clear of glycol. That's not to say a previous owner could have had that and did a flush at some point.
Maybe time for a high stall? With how well she drove turning off TCC w/ Star, I'd assume it would be another jump like that to go to the UPD unit, traction be damned.
I have the exact same thing, the tcc shows slipping at 1000 rpm on first/second gear, disabling it with star makes the car work perfectly.
Did you fix this issue?
I have the exact same thing, the tcc shows slipping at 1000 rpm on first/second gear, disabling it with star makes the car work perfectly.
Did you fix this issue?
Yes, please see the post right above yours, TCU tune took care of it. Long term solution? I sold the car and bought a '14 E63 w/ the 7 speed MCT and it is SO much better of a transmission. Obviously not as cheap of a 'fix' though 😅.
I highly recommend the MK Ultra TCUs though, best upgrade I ever did on the E55.
Yes, please see the post right above yours, TCU tune took care of it. Long term solution? I sold the car and bought a '14 E63 w/ the 7 speed MCT and it is SO much better of a transmission. Obviously not as cheap of a 'fix' though 😅.
I highly recommend the MK Ultra TCUs though, best upgrade I ever did on the E55.
I forgot to scroll to the second page 😅.
I've changed the Torque Converter to a low mileage used one and put a new TCC Solenoid in, but car still drives the same.
I suspected valve body leakage but when I disable lockup with star it drives perfectly so I don't think that's it.
Maybe I get a used TCM to check if it fixes that.
Mine is a 2007 e220 diesel, I envy your previous 55 amg.
I forgot to scroll to the second page 😅.
I've changed the Torque Converter to a low mileage used one and put a new TCC Solenoid in, but car still drives the same.
I suspected valve body leakage but when I disable lockup with star it drives perfectly so I don't think that's it.
Maybe I get a used TCM to check if it fixes that.
Mine is a 2007 e220 diesel, I envy your previous 55 amg.
Have you replaced your Torque Convert Clutch Lockup Solenoid? That one's known to act up. And while you're in there, definitely install Sonnax overlap valve kit, along with their other improvements.
My 722.6 feels like an old banger when cold, even drops rpms at first start driving that day, putting in D And just releasing brakes without pressing the accel, and once it engages to start driving, you hear rpms drop to like 400 mb (only at that moment of engagement, when the car starts moving) and steering wheel lock for split second (maybe not enough rpms to keep pump working lol). Its an old car
