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My wife and I decided to head to Palm Springs for a month to escape LA at the beginning of COVID and have some stress free time before our latest projects hit.
I have a week before I am going to be heads down and finally want to tackle some suspension issues.
My front driver's side has been driving me insane w noises since purchasing the car about 7 months ago now.
I've replaced the :
Sway Bar Links
Ball Joints Control Arms
I've purchased a sway bar, but I will need a shop to do the work since it involves lowering the subframe, but I've checked and lubricated all of the bushings and they look perfect.
One thing that I have noticed, when the car sits over night the driver's side suspension is slammed.
I'm thinking my culprit for one but hopefully both of these sounds is the struts, which I am looking to replace with Bilsteins. Is there anything else needed when replacing the front suspension in these cars?
Maybe the below videos will help, if anyone else has these sounds..... Also I wish I got on the throttle at the end these empty roads out here in Palm Springs have a nice echo.
JPman, One of the first "mods" I did when I got the car was replace the blower motor, you're actually right it's similar, but the blower motor sound was solely in the passenger footwell.
I'm planning on getting under the car Friday morning and will hopefully find a culprit for one if not both sounds and report back
I have a replacement that I am planning on popping in today or tomorrow, but I got code P2540 after a bunch of highway pulls so kinda hesitant to drive the car until I likely replace the fuel system... guess I have some projects upcoming.
And fixed. The lower control arm, which was approx 1000 miles old had worn bushings. I came to find out that the sway bar link broke loose on the hex connector that seats it to the control arm. I think this tweaked the control arm to fail prematurely.
New Sway Bar link and new lower control arm on, a quick test drive on ****ty LA streets and problem solved. No more squeaks or rattles. (didn't get a shot of the sway bar link, may go out to the garage later for a quick shot)
And fixed. The lower control arm, which was approx 1000 miles old had worn bushings. I came to find out that the sway bar link broke loose on the hex connector that seats it to the control arm. I think this tweaked the control arm to fail prematurely.
New Sway Bar link and new lower control arm on, a quick test drive on ****ty LA streets and problem solved. No more squeaks or rattles. (didn't get a shot of the sway bar link, may go out to the garage later for a quick shot)
to remove the Sway Bar Link you will need to remove the strut mount and the ball joint to squeeze in here.
I suggest a short extension for your wrench to clear the shock tower which will need to be pushed to the side.
21mm socket & 3/4 ratchet wrench ... note that if you're using the new screws provided with most lower control arms, the new screws are 22mm.
When reassembling use lock tite blue (Medium).
ou
Last edited by almostordinary; 04-20-2020 at 05:54 PM.
hey, thanks a lot for posting this. i have the same exact squeak and recently its gotten SUPER loud like yours. i sent an email to FCP Euro to put together a full bushing and ball joint list for me. hopefully it doesn't break the bank. I'd love to have a whisper quiet car if possible.
hey, thanks a lot for posting this. i have the same exact squeak and recently its gotten SUPER loud like yours. i sent an email to FCP Euro to put together a full bushing and ball joint list for me. hopefully it doesn't break the bank. I'd love to have a whisper quiet car if possible.
Definitely! FCP can't be beat for these cars... My next noise reduction is the rear deck squeaks like a pair of mating parrots... Hoping to go give that a look this weekend.
I have a replacement that I am planning on popping in today or tomorrow, but I got code P2540 after a bunch of highway pulls so kinda hesitant to drive the car until I likely replace the fuel system... guess I have some projects upcoming.