When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I will be installing a killer chiller in the next coming weeks and want to know what you guys are doing for the IC pump as far as keeping it on via ecu tune or having it working like stock(via rpm switching from the factory). I know eurocharged can program the ecu so the pump is on when the engine is running but what are you guys with killer chillers for your interccoler pumps? You leaving it stock or are you getting a tune so the pump is constantly running?
I ran +12 Ign power directly from the front SAM fuse panel to a relay next to the fuse. Then from the controlled side of the relay, I ran a wire down to the IC pump (cwa-100). For the control side of the relay I ran a +12 Ign power to one side of a DPST switch and the other side of the switch I ran a wire from the stock IC pump signal wire. This way I can run the pump all of the time when the ignition is on or I can have it operate the same as stock. When I work on the car with the door open with ignition on (using STAR, listening to stereo, etc.) I can switch to the stock side of the switch which will temporarily turn off the pump. If I forget to switch it back again at least I have the stock pump programming when drive the car the next time.
I installed the DPST rocker switch under the dash above the brake pedal and out of the way but within arm’s reach.
I have had a KC installed with a Pierburg 50 pump on my SL55 using the ECU switching. I can't see how it can work even better than it does. That is my tank water temp which would often drop below freezing before I fixed the SC pulley. I took it to the strip once, 11.4 at 124mph with a 2.1 sec 60 foot so a probable high 10 sec car with a good launch. The water tank temp was 4 deg C at burnout and went up to 18 deg C after the run. Ambient was around 25 deg C.
Hey trabot not to go on a tangent but I see that you had issues with the KC TX valve , did you ever get that figured out?
I can get the balance right on the Tx valve for shared with cabin use but when trying to balance it for full AC to the KC it then upsets the shared situation. If you think about it you are doubling the flow of AC gas, so how could a balanced Tx valve for half the volume be in balance with all of the volume? I keep it balance for shared with cabin operation and if I want to get the water temp down I just monitor the gage and when it stalls (temps start going up) I switch back until it starts to drop again. PIA I know but the KC bloke doesn't have the answers.
I can get the balance right on the Tx valve for shared with cabin use but when trying to balance it for full AC to the KC it then upsets the shared situation. If you think about it you are doubling the flow of AC gas, so how could a balanced Tx valve for half the volume be in balance with all of the volume? I keep it balance for shared with cabin operation and if I want to get the water temp down I just monitor the gage and when it stalls (temps start going up) I switch back until it starts to drop again. PIA I know but the KC bloke doesn't have the answers.
I purchased the race KC core with the drag valve hopefully larger core will allow the freon to have enough time to evaporate. I live in cali so I use the ac maybe a dozen times a year so if I can just get the intercooler temps close to freezing I would be happy.
05-25-2020, 08:47 PM
