W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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Slower Take Off??

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Old 08-12-2020, 11:25 AM
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2007 Mercedes E280 CDI
Slower Take Off??

Hi All,
i am searching to find into but most posts I find relate to ic pumps.
I have a T model (S211) i.e. 7 seat version E55 AMG.
i have upgraded the ic pump to the Bosch 010 and it works great. New set of Eagle F1s all round.
My concern is these cars are meant to be know for the low down power and take off, my OBD and torque app are reading my 0-60 times no better than 5.3s. I can wheel spin from a standing start but just doesn't feel like its how it should be. Definate surge from 3k rpm and above so fuelling and air I wouldn't think is an issue.My OBD will not seem to read fuel rail pressure for me to confirm that.
Is it that 5.3s is expected? I am used to riding a 1200cc motorbike and several 600 sports bikes before that so I am not sure if I am expecting too much from the car or whether its worth digging into it a little to see. The 0-60 times I believe should be closer to 4.5s.
I am hoping for some colder weather soon to see what cooler climate does for it. IATs are between 35 and 45 degrees when testing
Old 08-12-2020, 12:34 PM
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14 E63s AMG, 03 E55 AMG, 13 GL63 AMG, 95 M3
One of the magazines tested the wagon years back and concurred it was faster to 60 than our sedans, closer to 4 sec than 5. However the testers are always professional drivers and they do so under perfect conditions, many repeated attempts to determine best launch throttle inputs etc.

OBD does not monitor fuel pressure, that can only be done manually with a gauge plugged into the end of the fuel rail, but I would check that regardless if you don't have a history of pump replacement.

These cars will drive surprisingly well for having things 'wrong' with them. Think upstream o2 sensors, IAT sensor, MAP sensor etc, sometimes they won't set a light on the dash but if you end up replacing a sensor that was on it's way out, suddenly the car wakes up again. The computer has a lot of room to compensate before coding a problem, so you'll want to look at each of these individually (and likely just replace some due to mileage if there is no recent history).
Old 08-12-2020, 12:56 PM
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2007 Mercedes E280 CDI
Originally Posted by GinDistiller
One of the magazines tested the wagon years back and concurred it was faster to 60 than our sedans, closer to 4 sec than 5. However the testers are always professional drivers and they do so under perfect conditions, many repeated attempts to determine best launch throttle inputs etc.

OBD does not monitor fuel pressure, that can only be done manually with a gauge plugged into the end of the fuel rail, but I would check that regardless if you don't have a history of pump replacement.

These cars will drive surprisingly well for having things 'wrong' with them. Think upstream o2 sensors, IAT sensor, MAP sensor etc, sometimes they won't set a light on the dash but if you end up replacing a sensor that was on it's way out, suddenly the car wakes up again. The computer has a lot of room to compensate before coding a problem, so you'll want to look at each of these individually (and likely just replace some due to mileage if there is no recent history).
Thanks for the response. I assumed they'd be a little slower but maybe not then. I may try and look into replacing some of these anyway then.
Are there any of these I could check using an icarsoft v2 unit? I have just gotten one of these too but still figuring it out.
Old 08-12-2020, 01:37 PM
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I love my icarsoft, it can't do as much as STAR but is so much quicker and easier to use on the fly.

I like using the graphical items function to watch things like timing, TPS, boost etc. Only watch one or two at a time, sampling more will be too slow for any usable data. Make sure your boost is correct (this may also be affected based on your altitude, full boost is under full load in 3rd or 4th gear, so if you're only getting up to highway speed it might be 1-2psi lower than it's potential max). Then look at long term fuel trims and make sure both are below 5%. Then map the TPS, make sure full throttle is actually showing full throttle. Then look at timing, when you're above 3k rpm and giving it a lot of gas, hopefully you'll be double digits, but if you're closer to zero then the computer is pulling timing for some reason. Also look at MAP readings at idle, not just boost, and make sure they aren't fluctuating too much or out of range (could indicate a vacuum leak).

Ideally a datalogger would be better for all of this, but since your problem is more general and less like a specific hiccup etc, this is probably the best way to go about giving it a health check. Best of luck!
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Old 08-12-2020, 02:30 PM
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Amazing response thank you. I will give this a try when I next go for a drive. Just got a smell of fuel on my last drive but evergthing under seats look clear (with ever so slight seepage from the sender)
I have a feeling this car will cost me much more yet

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