W211 E63 AMG Buyer's Guide
#1
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W211 E63 AMG Buyer's Guide
Several people reached out to me on AccentOnCars and asked for the W211 E63 buying guide so I made one. Add your suggestions in the comments of the video so that we can create a complete source of information for potential buyers. Thank you.
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Yuille36 (08-15-2020)
#2
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I forgot to mention the brake rotors. They are expensive. Luckily C63 rotors can be retrofitted. But if you're a perfectionist then having new rotors on the car is a bonus.
#3
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You read my mind, as I was going to comment of this yesterday when I watched your video. Check for worn out pads and rotors. Press every button, to ensure that everything works. Check serpentine belt for cracks and idler pulleys for pay, but this would be covered under the PPI. It’s hard to talk shop, when most of it falls under the PPI.
Also, if the previous owner install PPF or Carbon Fiber, or had paint correction or Ceramic Coating done Or has maintenance records. I would say With high confidence that the car was properly maintained.
Also, if the previous owner install PPF or Carbon Fiber, or had paint correction or Ceramic Coating done Or has maintenance records. I would say With high confidence that the car was properly maintained.
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Rovel (08-16-2020)
#4
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You read my mind, as I was going to comment of this yesterday when I watched your video. Check for worn out pads and rotors. Press every button, to ensure that everything works. Check serpentine belt for cracks and idler pulleys for pay, but this would be covered under the PPI. It’s hard to talk shop, when most of it falls under the PPI.
Also, if the previous owner install PPF or Carbon Fiber, or had paint correction or Ceramic Coating done Or has maintenance records. I would say With high confidence that the car was properly maintained.
Also, if the previous owner install PPF or Carbon Fiber, or had paint correction or Ceramic Coating done Or has maintenance records. I would say With high confidence that the car was properly maintained.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
I would also say, that having a slight tick in the valve train at start up isn't necessarily bad. Keep in mind that, the car has obvious been sitting on a lot for awhile.
So no oil has been lubricating the intake cam, as the exhaust cam sits in oil almost all the time, due to it's location in the heads. But after the car as been running, and oil circulated, the ticking shouldn't be an issue.
Now after >1 minutes, and the ticking is still present, I would have strong concerns. Typically frequent oil changes addresses this issue. Unless your lifters and cams are bad.
Also if the car has been sitting for awhile, the suspension might be low, this isn't bad either. The system will bleed off air, if sitting for an extended period of time, so the components aren't under constant pressure.
If the car raises back to its natural ride height, and the suspension cycles up and down, you should be in the clear. Some people have different opinions about this.
If my car has sat undisturbed for a week or more, my rear wheel are tucked up into the rear fenders, and the front are lowered. I raised this question with my AMG Master Tech, and he said that it was normal.
I thought that I had an issue for years, but when my system was scanned, no error codes were stored. And the cars always checks out. I also raised this issue when I had my front struts replaced a few months ago, and my shop tech said it was just fine.
And rescanned for error codes, no codes found. Now, this is totally different is the car is resting on the ground, in that case you have issues.
Also, to test for bad engine mounts. Have someone sit in the car, while the hood is opened, and give it gas, if the engine moves more than normal, you may need engine mounts and transmission mounts.
So no oil has been lubricating the intake cam, as the exhaust cam sits in oil almost all the time, due to it's location in the heads. But after the car as been running, and oil circulated, the ticking shouldn't be an issue.
Now after >1 minutes, and the ticking is still present, I would have strong concerns. Typically frequent oil changes addresses this issue. Unless your lifters and cams are bad.
Also if the car has been sitting for awhile, the suspension might be low, this isn't bad either. The system will bleed off air, if sitting for an extended period of time, so the components aren't under constant pressure.
If the car raises back to its natural ride height, and the suspension cycles up and down, you should be in the clear. Some people have different opinions about this.
If my car has sat undisturbed for a week or more, my rear wheel are tucked up into the rear fenders, and the front are lowered. I raised this question with my AMG Master Tech, and he said that it was normal.
I thought that I had an issue for years, but when my system was scanned, no error codes were stored. And the cars always checks out. I also raised this issue when I had my front struts replaced a few months ago, and my shop tech said it was just fine.
And rescanned for error codes, no codes found. Now, this is totally different is the car is resting on the ground, in that case you have issues.
Also, to test for bad engine mounts. Have someone sit in the car, while the hood is opened, and give it gas, if the engine moves more than normal, you may need engine mounts and transmission mounts.
Last edited by Yuille36; 08-16-2020 at 12:42 PM.
#6
Thread Starter
Super Member
I would also say, that having a slight tick in the valve train at start up isn't necessarily bad. Keep in mind that, the car has obvious been sitting on a lot for awhile.
So no oil has been lubricating the intake cam, as the exhaust cam sits in oil almost all the time, due to it's location in the heads. But after the car as been running, and oil circulated, the ticking shouldn't be an issue.
Now after >1 minutes, and the ticking is still present, I would have strong concerns. Typically frequent oil changes addresses this issue. Unless your lifters and cams are bad.
Also if the car has been sitting for awhile, the suspension might be low, this isn't bad either. The system will bleed off air, if sitting for an extended period of time, so the components aren't under constant pressure.
If the car raises back to its natural ride height, and the suspension cycles up and down, you should be in the clear. Some people have different opinions about this.
If my car has sat undisturbed for a week or more, my rear wheel are tucked up into the rear fenders, and the front are lowered. I raised this question with my AMG Master Tech, and he said that it was normal.
I thought that I had an issue for years, but when my system was scanned, no error codes were stored. And the cars always checks out. I also raised this issue when I had my front struts replaced a few months ago, and my shop tech said it was just fine.
And rescanned for error codes, no codes found. Now, this is totally different is the car is resting on the ground, in that case you have issues.
Also, to test for bad engine mounts. Have someone sit in the car, while the hood is opened, and give it gas, if the engine moves more than normal, you may need engine mounts and transmission mounts.
So no oil has been lubricating the intake cam, as the exhaust cam sits in oil almost all the time, due to it's location in the heads. But after the car as been running, and oil circulated, the ticking shouldn't be an issue.
Now after >1 minutes, and the ticking is still present, I would have strong concerns. Typically frequent oil changes addresses this issue. Unless your lifters and cams are bad.
Also if the car has been sitting for awhile, the suspension might be low, this isn't bad either. The system will bleed off air, if sitting for an extended period of time, so the components aren't under constant pressure.
If the car raises back to its natural ride height, and the suspension cycles up and down, you should be in the clear. Some people have different opinions about this.
If my car has sat undisturbed for a week or more, my rear wheel are tucked up into the rear fenders, and the front are lowered. I raised this question with my AMG Master Tech, and he said that it was normal.
I thought that I had an issue for years, but when my system was scanned, no error codes were stored. And the cars always checks out. I also raised this issue when I had my front struts replaced a few months ago, and my shop tech said it was just fine.
And rescanned for error codes, no codes found. Now, this is totally different is the car is resting on the ground, in that case you have issues.
Also, to test for bad engine mounts. Have someone sit in the car, while the hood is opened, and give it gas, if the engine moves more than normal, you may need engine mounts and transmission mounts.
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E55Greasemonkey (08-16-2020)
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
I rewatched your video, and you did cover it. I don’t know if I can add anything, as you pretty much covered everything. I would pull the dipstick and check the quality of oil, if you smell antifreeze run away. But my that time, you would in fact have a milkshake (oil and antifreeze) mixed together. And that is a good indicator of a broken head bolt or bad head gasket.
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Rovel (08-16-2020)
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