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No fuse....N10/1 front Sam provides source voltage to coils. There are 2 z splices in between N10/1 and coils. After seeing those plugs I wonder if knock sensor was triggered causing ignition to be pulled? Replace those plugs and possibly even the wires for the associated cylinder. I am assuming these plugs are original?
No fuse....N10/1 front Sam provides source voltage to coils. There are 2 z splices in between N10/1 and coils. After seeing those plugs I wonder if knock sensor was triggered causing ignition to be pulled? Replace those plugs and possibly even the wires for the associated cylinder. I am assuming these plugs are original?
They might be original or OEM replacements, they have a Mercedes logo on them. New NGK plugs will be in tomorrow morning, going to test resistance on coils and wires before I put them in.
Hopefully this is it but not all of the plugs are like that, the driver side of the engine didn't have this separation, I would assume they will fire, I wonder if the car shuts down spark for all coils when resistance it too high on just one...
ME calculates ignition angle values and regulates the anti knock control. There’s a good possibility that ME pulled ignition due to the implausible ignition Angle. Remedy the plugs and ohm the wires to Ensure good continuity.
on a side note.....I have seen our cars run on 6 cylinders so personally I am skeptical of this fixing your no run issue. It will however give you peace of mind that your ignition system is now inspected and up to par. I’m really surprised you didn’t have a misfire code on the accompanying cylinder. I would really look at your knock sensor as well.
bad CPS = ECM PCM ME ECU whatever cuts ignition = no sparky sparky boom boom
just turn the car over with a lead connected into a spark plug that’s not in the engine. pulling a lead with or without the tool has a decent chance of breaking the plug in half. your plugs were fine before you broke them
Last edited by coupesedan; 09-16-2020 at 09:30 PM.
bad CPS = ECM PCM ME ECU whatever cuts ignition = no sparky sparky boom boom
just turn the car over with a lead connected into a spark plug that’s not in the engine. pulling a lead with or without the tool has a decent chance of breaking the plug in half. your plugs were fine before you broke them
Doubt I broke them when I pulled the boot, there is significant corrosion where there should be newly exposed metal if it was a recent break.
Scan tool shows 160 RPM while cranking. Does the RPM signal come from the crank or the cam position sensor?
I do not have that answer but I always assumed from the crank sensor. I mentioned the camshaft sensor from my experience in the turbo Miata world. 2nd generation Miatas have crank and camshaft position sensors. The camshaft sensor was problematic. Would intermittently fail causing the engine to quit and cause a no-start condition.
Air, fuel, and spark. You're gonna figure this problem out and I, for one, will be cheering for you.
IMO anything over 45 should be running, 65 is probably with an old fuel filter while 75 is what you should see with a new filter.
Looks like I can put my seats back and reassemble the trunk, fuel system is fine. I'm going to recheck the CPS and see if I have RPM signal in the scan tool then potentially pull the 1 month old CPS out of my C55 that runs great and put it in my E55, surprisingly the CPS DIY on the C55 is a much bigger PITA than E55 in spite of the supercharger.
So....did you actually measure your fuel pressure though?
So....did you actually measure your fuel pressure though?
Yes, post #18.
Originally Posted by Fantomas
Just tested fuel pressure, has 75 psi ignition on, holds 65 ignition off and jumps around 60-90 while cranking. Looks like I don't have spark or the injectors aren't firing.
Yes on spark. Injectors are probably firing due to that wicked fuel pressure variance. Side note, may want to consider replacing your fuel rail damper as that is a ton of fluctuation.
New plugs are in, no change, continues to crank without starting. It's definitely getting fuel, several of the sparks pulled were wet and smelled of gas.
New plugs are in, no change, continues to crank without starting. It's definitely getting fuel, several of the sparks pulled were wet and smelled of gas.
Pull one of the 16 leads, connect old spark plug to it crank it over and see if it goes sparky sparky.
Double checked the fuses, fuse #58 responsible for ignition coils is good and each of the coils has 12v on pin 1 with ignition on. At this point it looks like the computer is not commanding ignition for some reason, I guess I'm back to crank position sensor.
Checked the spark by pulling the plug boot and connecting old plugs to it, I have spark, at least on 1st and 5th coils (front on each side), and I have fuel...
Does it spin over extra fast? If so you might have lost compression, really flooded engines can wash all the oil off the rings. When I worked on BMWs this happened all the time with bad coolant sensors.
Throttle to floor should command fuel off. Compression test would also be a good idea at this point
Last edited by coupesedan; 09-17-2020 at 11:03 PM.
Does it spin over extra fast? If so you might have lost compression, really flooded engines can wash all the oil off the rings. When I worked on BMWs this happened all the time with bad coolant sensors.
Throttle to floor should command fuel off. Compression test would also be a good idea at this point
I had this happen on a car I worked on, oil level was high, oil was very contaminated and smelled like gas, car ran but smoked like it's being seafomed but the car ran and after an oil change it was fine.
You would think even if it was really flooded it would catch and run just for a moment when the new plugs went in, just cranked.
Well... It's running and I'm not particularly happy about how I got it running. Drained some gas from the fuel rail and put it into the throttle body... Started right up.
I'm posting this because I just spent like 15 minutes looking for it. WIS is....well it's terrible. There doesn't seem to be a way to pull up specs like this - they are buried in random places and it seems like trial and error was the only option to find this. Very frustrating. But since I found it I wanted to post. This shows the differences between the M113 and M113K.
There are some substantive differences and I wonder what the story is behind each. No EGR on K, much higher fuel pressure, speed density fuel control, no damper on M113, some non-211 applications of the K got what I assume is closed loop feedback fuel pressure control (including pressure sensor), and the 850W fan is pretty serious. We also got "lucky" and had a higher output air cooled alt as opposed to the lower output water cooled unit in the M113.
09-16-2020, 07:06 PM
