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Block off your Bypass Valve with these Stainless Steel VRP Plates.
We couldn't stand seeing people paying $85+ for a literal Brick That was a horrible way to Delete the Bypass.
Other companies sell bypass “relocation kits” and call them delete kits, With those you'll need to find a place in your engine bay, to leave your bypass valve plugged in!
With our plate you leave the bypass in place and simply remove the factory butterfly. ECU is Happy and you dont have to stick your Bypass in your cabin air filter compartment.
You will need (2) lower gaskets to run this plate (We do offer a gasket kit with both lowers and the upper seal for $18)
My guess is that they are referring to the supercharger bypass that allows the car to run as effectively normally aspirated at lower power requirements. You would need to delete that if you went to a fixed pulley system I would guess. The right-up could certainly use more specifics though.
no bypass valve means you'll have boost always and as soon as possible. some want this type of response. similarly a clutchless supercharger would also emit higher boost response as there is nothing to limit the addition of boost pressure.
A supercharger or turbo should always have a bypass /blow off valve to release pressure and heat and will always run more efficiently with one. We also found blowing off to atmosphere will always make a forced induction set up run cooler but normally when the boost is always engaged, like say a Vortech blower or fixed pulley set up on our AMG's that are becoming more popular.
So with that being said if you delete our factory set up and then run a stand alone valve, which would be easy to do, than it's a win win.
Hmmmm...think that will be the winter project as well. LOL
A supercharger or turbo should always have a bypass /blow off valve to release pressure and heat and will always run more efficiently with one. We also found blowing off to atmosphere will always make a forced induction set up run cooler but normally when the boost is always engaged, like say a Vortech blower or fixed pulley set up on our AMG's that are becoming more popular.
So with that being said if you delete our factory set up and then run a stand alone valve, which would be easy to do, than it's a win win.
Hmmmm...think that will be the winter project as well. LOL
This! With a blocked bypass, the engine will run hotter, the MPG's will suffer, and the supercharger will wear faster. The only reasons I can think to run something like this would be for increased response on engines running less than 7 PSI of boost and if you were only running 1/4 mile at a time. The trade off for a street driven car is so not worth it from my personal experience.
This! With a blocked bypass, the engine will run hotter, the MPG's will suffer, and the supercharger will wear faster. The only reasons I can think to run something like this would be for increased response on engines running less than 7 PSI of boost and if you were only running 1/4 mile at a time. The trade off for a street driven car is so not worth it from my personal experience.
Has anyone done this delete plate on their car? Curious how it ran.
I found someone that has a custom supercharger inter cooler that is much larger and eliminates the bypass valve so really same effect as the VRP delete plate in place. Valve just get's set aside somewhere out of sight.
SL55 till MY2002 came without one from factory. I have a bypass delete aswell. with a 88mm pulley (stock is 91mm) and i have around 0,8bar boost (stock 0,7bar). The bypass delete itself doesn't really add much boost. The car feels snappier and more violent and i feel the sc clutch engage more than before. Mpg is a bit worse and intake temps will be a bit higher on lower rpms where the sc isn't clutched in.
The block will not generate boost, but makes sure you don't lose boost which was already there.
Bypass delete is a popular mod on the Mini Cooper S (gen 1) platform. If I understood correctly, the bypass was primarily created to aid in fuel consumption when you are coasting etc. The Mini Cooper S has a fixed pulley from factory. the bypass valve on the Mini platform does not seal perfectly, so you will always loose some boost. Instead of bypass delete, I modified the actuator by putting a little bit more preload on the spring (it was a vacuum operated valve).
I will be doing a lot of work to the supercharger including porting the runners and gutting the intake snout so while I am in there I want to try and fix my boost loss at high rpm. It will always slowly drop 1-1.5lbs of boost from 4,500 to 6,500rpm. Not belt slip according to the endless data logs from testing so was thinking it could be the bypass valve. Nothing to lose by trying.
I will be doing a lot of work to the supercharger including porting the runners and gutting the intake snout so while I am in there I want to try and fix my boost loss at high rpm. It will always slowly drop 1-1.5lbs of boost from 5000 to 6,500rpm. Not belt slip according to the endless data logs from testing so was thinking it could be the bypass valve. Nothing to lose by trying.
I think that's normal, mine does that too. You can see the boost drop around 0.1bar nearing 6k rpm
Yep there it is....makes no sense. At first I thought that the blower just wasn't keeping up with the engine rpm demand but I spike boost at 17.5psi anddrop to 16 so .....
You also should not have any belt slip with that little boost I would think and also the blower is all up to speed by the higher rpm.
Anyone else with the bypass delete plate in place?
Blower is apart now so this is the time to do it. Just need more input on it as I believe that is what is controlling boost as far as a torque limiter for the engine/trans.
They say that you will see max boost in third gear but you should see max boost in every gear since the blower is a mechanical device and 6,000rpm in first is the same in 3,4 and 5th gear no ??
Again I loose around 1.5-2lbs from 4,500 and up consistantly. Very strange.
10-29-2020, 05:44 PM
