No start just clicks
11-04-2020, 09:40 PM
#1
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No start just clicks
Hey guys I'm having an annoying problem today I wanted to remove my supercharger pulley so I lifted the engine up with a jack from the oil pan, I still could not fit the socket so I lowered the engine back down and removed the drive belt to check other pullies, once I put the belt back I go to start the car and it does not even crank just clicks once.
The car has 0 codes and a brand new alternator plus battery it was running so good the whole day started right up. Please help this is so annoying
Video of the sound:
The car has 0 codes and a brand new alternator plus battery it was running so good the whole day started right up. Please help this is so annoying
Video of the sound:
Last edited by MartinWake; 11-04-2020 at 10:08 PM.
11-05-2020, 09:15 AM
#2
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2006 CLS55 AMG, 2005 SLK 350 AMG
The clicking is the start solenoid getting current and trying to engage the starter, but there is not sufficient current flow to turn the starter motor. The solenoid is just a switch so it is easy to activate it. The starter motor take lots of current to get it rotating. Look for low battery charge, deteriated battery cables, poor connections, and so on.
11-05-2020, 12:41 PM
#3
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The clicking is the start solenoid getting current and trying to engage the starter, but there is not sufficient current flow to turn the starter motor. The solenoid is just a switch so it is easy to activate it. The starter motor take lots of current to get it rotating. Look for low battery charge, deteriated battery cables, poor connections, and so on.
11-05-2020, 12:46 PM
#4
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2006 CLS55 AMG, 2005 SLK 350 AMG
Did the mechanic share with you what code was set that required to be reset? That's what you need to know so you can chase this down. Just clearing fault codes without understading what set the code doesn't do much good.
11-05-2020, 01:42 PM
#5
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There where no codes but now he resets it and it does not start anymore
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11-05-2020, 06:22 PM
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11-05-2020, 10:39 PM
#12
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
If you cut a notch in the fan shroud you can get a socket and breaker bar on the bolt. Cut a deeper notch to get a torque wrench on it.
Before you lifted the engine, all was good. After you lowered the engine, all not good. So...I would hypothesize the problem has something to do with raising and lowering the engine. I would expect it to be an electrical harness or wire or connector that was pulled, scraped, crushed, or severed during the raising/lowering operation. Me? I would put the car on a lift or jack stands and, using a very bright light, go over the entire wiring harness in the engine compartment paying special attention to anything that looks like a tight fit around the engine or transmission. If nothing found, I would then raise the engine again as you did the first time and once again go over the entire wiring harness while looking for anything that could have affected the harness.
If nothing else, key on to position 2, jumper the starter relay contact (make sure you jumper the correct socket connectors!!!). If engine turns over and starts, the issue goes back to the Motor Electronics that activate the starter relay. If the engine does not turn over, then it is possible you are missing the power to the starter relay contact that is used to activate the starter solenoid. Easy enough to verify; do you have or have not 12 volts on that socket connector with the key in position 2. If power is present at the relay contact, and jumpering the two socket connectors for the contact does not turn the engine over, then put a multimeter on the starter solenoid and see if you get 12 volts to it when you jumper the relay contacts. If you get 12 volts to the starter solenoid, it is possible that the starter picked this exact time to fail. If you do not get 12 volts, you have a break in the line to the starter solenoid.
EDIT: Appears that Motor Electronics connector B2, pin 5 provides the power to activate the starter relay in the Front SAM. Should be a violet/white wire. Starter relay solenoid appears to be activated by application of 12 volts from the Motor Electronics while the other end is grounded with the starter motor and relay contacts.
Let us know what you find.
Before you lifted the engine, all was good. After you lowered the engine, all not good. So...I would hypothesize the problem has something to do with raising and lowering the engine. I would expect it to be an electrical harness or wire or connector that was pulled, scraped, crushed, or severed during the raising/lowering operation. Me? I would put the car on a lift or jack stands and, using a very bright light, go over the entire wiring harness in the engine compartment paying special attention to anything that looks like a tight fit around the engine or transmission. If nothing found, I would then raise the engine again as you did the first time and once again go over the entire wiring harness while looking for anything that could have affected the harness.
If nothing else, key on to position 2, jumper the starter relay contact (make sure you jumper the correct socket connectors!!!). If engine turns over and starts, the issue goes back to the Motor Electronics that activate the starter relay. If the engine does not turn over, then it is possible you are missing the power to the starter relay contact that is used to activate the starter solenoid. Easy enough to verify; do you have or have not 12 volts on that socket connector with the key in position 2. If power is present at the relay contact, and jumpering the two socket connectors for the contact does not turn the engine over, then put a multimeter on the starter solenoid and see if you get 12 volts to it when you jumper the relay contacts. If you get 12 volts to the starter solenoid, it is possible that the starter picked this exact time to fail. If you do not get 12 volts, you have a break in the line to the starter solenoid.
EDIT: Appears that Motor Electronics connector B2, pin 5 provides the power to activate the starter relay in the Front SAM. Should be a violet/white wire. Starter relay solenoid appears to be activated by application of 12 volts from the Motor Electronics while the other end is grounded with the starter motor and relay contacts.
Let us know what you find.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 11-05-2020 at 11:06 PM.
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MartinWake (11-05-2020)
11-06-2020, 01:03 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
If you cut a notch in the fan shroud you can get a socket and breaker bar on the bolt. Cut a deeper notch to get a torque wrench on it.
Before you lifted the engine, all was good. After you lowered the engine, all not good. So...I would hypothesize the problem has something to do with raising and lowering the engine. I would expect it to be an electrical harness or wire or connector that was pulled, scraped, crushed, or severed during the raising/lowering operation. Me? I would put the car on a lift or jack stands and, using a very bright light, go over the entire wiring harness in the engine compartment paying special attention to anything that looks like a tight fit around the engine or transmission. If nothing found, I would then raise the engine again as you did the first time and once again go over the entire wiring harness while looking for anything that could have affected the harness.
If nothing else, key on to position 2, jumper the starter relay contact (make sure you jumper the correct socket connectors!!!). If engine turns over and starts, the issue goes back to the Motor Electronics that activate the starter relay. If the engine does not turn over, then it is possible you are missing the power to the starter relay contact that is used to activate the starter solenoid. Easy enough to verify; do you have or have not 12 volts on that socket connector with the key in position 2. If power is present at the relay contact, and jumpering the two socket connectors for the contact does not turn the engine over, then put a multimeter on the starter solenoid and see if you get 12 volts to it when you jumper the relay contacts. If you get 12 volts to the starter solenoid, it is possible that the starter picked this exact time to fail. If you do not get 12 volts, you have a break in the line to the starter solenoid.
EDIT: Appears that Motor Electronics connector B2, pin 5 provides the power to activate the starter relay in the Front SAM. Should be a violet/white wire. Starter relay solenoid appears to be activated by application of 12 volts from the Motor Electronics while the other end is grounded with the starter motor and relay contacts.
Let us know what you find.
Before you lifted the engine, all was good. After you lowered the engine, all not good. So...I would hypothesize the problem has something to do with raising and lowering the engine. I would expect it to be an electrical harness or wire or connector that was pulled, scraped, crushed, or severed during the raising/lowering operation. Me? I would put the car on a lift or jack stands and, using a very bright light, go over the entire wiring harness in the engine compartment paying special attention to anything that looks like a tight fit around the engine or transmission. If nothing found, I would then raise the engine again as you did the first time and once again go over the entire wiring harness while looking for anything that could have affected the harness.
If nothing else, key on to position 2, jumper the starter relay contact (make sure you jumper the correct socket connectors!!!). If engine turns over and starts, the issue goes back to the Motor Electronics that activate the starter relay. If the engine does not turn over, then it is possible you are missing the power to the starter relay contact that is used to activate the starter solenoid. Easy enough to verify; do you have or have not 12 volts on that socket connector with the key in position 2. If power is present at the relay contact, and jumpering the two socket connectors for the contact does not turn the engine over, then put a multimeter on the starter solenoid and see if you get 12 volts to it when you jumper the relay contacts. If you get 12 volts to the starter solenoid, it is possible that the starter picked this exact time to fail. If you do not get 12 volts, you have a break in the line to the starter solenoid.
EDIT: Appears that Motor Electronics connector B2, pin 5 provides the power to activate the starter relay in the Front SAM. Should be a violet/white wire. Starter relay solenoid appears to be activated by application of 12 volts from the Motor Electronics while the other end is grounded with the starter motor and relay contacts.
Let us know what you find.
11-13-2020, 08:53 PM
#14
Super Member
Thread Starter
I replaced the starter and still the same problem, with the help of pmercury we figured out the relay works when 12 volts are applied but when its connected to the car it does not click.
