Ok who's done it, how was it done, and how much? Was thinking of putting around a 100 shot on the Benz. I was going to run 110 unleaded just to be safe. I've put up to a 250 shot on carb'd small blocks and up to 500 on a diesel but never have messed with EFI stuff before, and don't want an expensive lesson! I figure if the tune is stock I won't need to change much (plugs, timing, etc) other than fuel. Thanks guys.

 

not much done with N20 around here. but from looking at the stock fuel tables and AFR, id say a 75-100 wet shot would go down without a hitch. these motors are speed density so it will be easy to spray it. its frankly easier to just add some boost.

 

I run it and have run it on every car {and boat} lol I have owned. What do you need... a total install break down ?

 

LOL...sure. I guess the basics...wet or dry nozzle, placement, shot, timing, plugs, etc. I was sort of worried about distribution through the blower but the guys I talked to with Hellkitty cars told me just not to worry about it.

 

OK this is my set up. First I flow tested the nozzle placement on the intake manifold and found that the best distribution out of the manifold runners was right at the elbow slightly up on the bend. So looking at the engine from the front and leaning over to look at the rear, the nozzles are at about 11 o clock position. This provided the best "even" flow out of the runners.
So...I run a wet system, two fogger nozzles, jet size is for 40hp-45hp each nozzle at a fuel pressure of 65psi. The whole system with lines ,solenoids and purge is hidden behind the throttle body area and wrapped in heat shield.
I run a progressive controller set for 1.5 seconds that starts at 25% and ramps up. Arming switch is right next to the head light switch with an LED indicator, and digital pressure gauge, purge button and bottle warmer switch's are hidden in the console along with led indicators, so I just slide that open and they are right there. Purge line go's under car between floor board and plastic covers and can't be seen when purging. My activation button is now the auto start/stop button on the shifter. I installed a lock out gate so that I couldn't push the shifter left or right and accidentally shift trans from pushing the button and moving shifter as I only use the steering wheel paddles. I run a 5 lb bottle to save some space and weight and the bottle is wrapped in a pressure controlled bottle warmer set for 850 psi. Bottle is covered and behind driver seat and fits real nice being so small and It's good for two 1/2 mile runs.,,,,actually our 1/2 mile events are a little shorter than 1/2 but that's what they call it. The warmer is needed because I run the car in cool temps, 50*, when I race so until the gauge is at 850psi I will not run it due to AFR changes { too rich } if I don't see that pressure. Bottle pressure is a key element when tuning the AFR as 100psi less will run 1/2 point AFR richer and 100psi more will run 1/2 point leaner. I also run a slightly lower bottle pressure to keep the sustained pressure more consisstant through the run due to the smaller bottle. I run 108 octane which is the highest unleaded they sell and run timing in the 25 degree range. Normally on the street I use 104 octane with the same tune but don't drive it as hard as the 1/2 mile. I also have a fail safe that will turn off the supercharger if the engine run's to lean....12.5 AFR or higher, this fail safe will do the same even if not spraying it. An absolute MUST have and has saved the day MANY times.
I guess you could run nitrous through the blower but now your shocking the blower rotors with -130 degree temps and cooling the inter cooler on the wrong side...only my opinion, so I did it my way. The inter cooler pulls heat out of the incoming air,blowing extreme cold air into it prevents it from doing its job.. Sorry for the long spew was just typing away.....
There is a math formula for running nitrous horsepower through an engine but for the life of me I can't find it but an engine can use say 200 hp at 6,000 rpm but not 2,000 rpm, that's when things go boom. With a progressive controller you can run much more nitrous with out hurting the engine and I will probably move up this year in jet size and turn down the boost. Right now I am only adding 10hp per cylinder so plenty of room and safety.

 

Hey, if you have any pics of your install to go along with your write up. That would help add to the info.

 

feel like this should be sticky'd

 

Dang that sound like a hell of a setup! Thanks for the info. I'm surprised a 5lb bottle even lasts you two half miles. I agree under the manifold is better, but I was unsure of how distribution would be without doing a dedicated individual runner system. I figured 100hp shot isn't too bad...my buddy's Hellcat is running a 250! Did you leave timing and everything else alone? What fuel?

 

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I updated post #5.
The key to engine survival is keeping engine around 180-185 degrees and an AFR in the upper 11's ratio or a little less. When I tear down my engine it looks like brand new inside so I will keep doing exactly what I am doing.