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yep...the arms i removed came into contact with the rear subframe on suspension compression of anything more than 2 inches. also, they would bind up on the sway bars when the suspension was unloaded by more than 3 inches.
i had to extend the sway bar links to clear which lessened the amount the rear sway bar was actually being utilized. now i have new sway bar links, rear feels good and tight, and sway bars are working as designed from the factory.
As mentioned above (#20) we manufacture Rear upper adjustable Camber arms for Airmatic and Coil/4MATIC W211, C219, R230 models.
But for safety and peace of mind not soft grade extruded aluminum - instead 4140 high grade solid steel !
We are constantly designing, developing and as Eightysixtuned mentioned above (#24) the latest design breakthrough - Rear lower arm inner adjustable bush kits have all the features below and providing up to additional 2 degrees Pos. or Neg. Camber.
This rear kit also includes "Extra Toe adjustment" to compensate for the new rear Camber facility. Along with allowing precise, accurate adjustment and doubling the existing Toe adjustment range!
• EASE OF FITTING - Fit without need for arm removal.
• EASE OF ACCESS TO ADJUST - Ultimate single wrench precise - direct on alignment rack “UNDER LOAD”.
• UNLIKE UPPER ARMS - Retains important clearance top of tire to outer fender when wanting to adjust to resolve costly, premature inner edge wear.
Besides front Camber & Caster kits - also for rear manufacture uprated performance bushings for the 6 Multi link rear arms. Less twitch / flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake #502528K $480
DHL Express air Worldwide $40 one kit, $20 each extra.
Kevin.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
What baffled me most is, how the manufacturer of those arms doesn't care about the design flaw. I've yet to hear a response from VRP, since they resell those arms too, but with the holidays etc. maybe it will take some time.
I agree having excentric bushings would be the best solution. Unfortunately after shipping, tax and toll to Germany, I'd be looking at 600€ ($650). I've ordered a set of adjustable arms (for static suspension) by TA Technix (German company) for 150€. They have the bend like the oem arm to clear the sway bar and no 90° offset thread.
I am pleased with the Rear Tow Arms from UPD. I actually had the Mount(s), which for some reason came as 2 pieces?, welded together and then I spray painted them Matt Black. I installed them when I did the second phase build on my 2007 E63 starting from the rear main seal to every rubber bushing in the drivetrain, Suspension and Subframe. I used the K-Mac “OEM” replacement for all the Arms except for the new Torque Arms and the new Bushing in the rear wheel carriers. Install of new subframe rear bush with my DIY Bushing Tool! Pic of the finished “Mount” from UPD which originally came as 2 Pieces that I had welded together and then painted Matt Black! Good shot of entire rear subframe disco’d from the car! You can see all the new shiny K-Mac Bushings in the upper Arms as well as new bolts & Nuts! Also note the new bushings in the Subframe itself, its front Cross Member as well as the Differential Mount Bushings! Money Shot of the sweet (Red) UPD Arms installed as well as new subframe bushings and the cleaned then painted dust shield(s), refurbished by RMT rear Air bags, new shocks, cleaned exhaust pipe which the failed rear main seal covered with burnt oil, and Hub Stud Extensions.
how many miles do you have on those arms? i put on 90k on mine and they failed. threads pulled out of the aluminum rod, but i had a heim join fail and bushings elongate because of excessive contact with arm and subframe over time stretching the steel. all on the same side of the vehicle.
What's the reason to use the toe arms, because the toe is adjustable with the stock ones?
Less hysteresis with these bars. Stock toe bars I was always chasing the exact measurement I wanted; if I needed to make a small adjustment but overshot my mark, when I attempted to go back towards the mark the bars would "jump", vastly overshoot the mark, and I would have to start all over. Lather, rinse, repeat. There were a couple of times I spent almost an hour trying to get it right and since I do not have a tall lift that meant crawling under the car and back out multiple times. Plus, I had to lower the rear of the exhaust to obtain access to the adjustment bolts.
With these bars I can set the toe in less than 15 minutes once I have the measurement strings set up. Less hysteresis and it can be adjusted without dropping the rear of the exhaust. The largest issue I have encountered with them is the need to lubricate the heim joints if they begin squeaking. For me, approximately once a year.
I like them a lot.
86T, I installed the rear Main starting in April 2020 during CCP Virus Deepstate Scare and didn’t get the car back on the road until the following February 2021! As for the miles I’ve put on it since the install, not even 10k, so I’ll be on the lookout for a backup pair based on your input on the issue!
However, the UPD Rear Toe Arms do make alignment a breeze as long as you have the right size wrenches to turn those Nuts (24mm & 28mm IIRC?) The third place I took my car for alignment didn’t and so the dude used his universal Crescent wrench and blatantly marred the finish on one side before I noticed and told him to stop right there!
I didn’t go back and proceeded to use bbirdwell’s old school method using tight filament paralleling both sides taking into account the 9mm diff b/n the rear axle length vs the front (4.5mm on each side). This means in order for the filament to be “parallel” each of the rear tires must be 4.5mm closer to the filament than the front as measured from the hubcap(s). Moreover, this was only done after correcting for pull to the right fortunately done by setting the inboard Spring Arms to neutral and then retracting Driver Side Torque Arm and extending Passenger Side TA with Crash Bolts doing test drives obviously after each adjustment.
I then corrected what the dude who marred the UPD finish on the Arms did by aligning the Tow measuring with Calipers the distance away (F vs R) the rear tire was from the filament to determine proper alignment (2mm total-1mm closer on R, 1mm further on F IIRC) I was very pleased to be able to finish it off Aligning it myself accomplishing what 3 Professional Alignment Shops couldn’t! It definitely required adjustment each time on the front using STAR to Re-Center the Steering Wheel to “0” after each adjustment then re-measuring. Very well worth the effort!
Less hysteresis with these bars. Stock toe bars I was always chasing the exact measurement I wanted; if I needed to make a small adjustment but overshot my mark, when I attempted to go back towards the mark the bars would "jump", vastly overshoot the mark, and I would have to start all over. Lather, rinse, repeat. There were a couple of times I spent almost an hour trying to get it right and since I do not have a tall lift that meant crawling under the car and back out multiple times. Plus, I had to lower the rear of the exhaust to obtain access to the adjustment bolts.
With these bars I can set the toe in less than 15 minutes once I have the measurement strings set up. Less hysteresis and it can be adjusted without dropping the rear of the exhaust. The largest issue I have encountered with them is the need to lubricate the heim joints if they begin squeaking. For me, approximately once a year.
I like them a lot.
I get what you mean lol. I left the exhaust off, cause no way to get to the stock bolts, when the exhaust is on, especially with the amg exhaust I installed on my cls 😂
01-03-2024 | 07:43 PM
