fruitsalt

I was wondering if anyone knows if it’s safe to revert the ECU back to stock without removing mods.

The vehicle is an 04 E55, eurocharged tune, long tube headers, cat less, supercharger pulley with heat exchanger.

I know it will throw codes for cats etc, just wondering if it’s safe to do so.

GinDistiller

Cat codes can be turned off in STAR so it doesn't necessarily mean they will be back when reverting to a stock map.

Safe? Headers will run the car lean, pulley can cause overboost limp mode issues and other headaches. If you have injector upgrades then the car might not even run.
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Why would you be doing this? The short answer is 'no' simply because it could grenade the motor. But grandma-driving it a few miles? Most likely just fine.

fruitsalt

Thanks for the reply, I recently acquired the car and it came with everything done to it. Both batteries in the car were dead so all emission monitors were incomplete. I’m trying to get CAT, o2 and heater to set. So that I can register the car. It did not seem like I would be able to set those on the current setup and was wondering if I can do it with a stock tune. Seems like I might have to go completely stock to be able to get the car to pass emissions.

I bought the car to track, so don’t really care about the monitors or check engine lights but I do need it to set all monitors to be able to register it.

GinDistiller

Ah that makes a lot more sense. Emissions are always tricky, back when I was involved in Subaru tuning we could flash ECMs to show readiness codes set, but I don't know if we ever got answers from EC/RaceIQ etc that they could do this on the MB platform.

Tuning out rear o2s with STAR is easy but may not get you passed in some states. Here in WA we just got rid of emissions which is quite nice!

It seems like a huge bummer to revert to stock, maybe reach out to some tuners and see what they can do?

fruitsalt

Thank you, I will contact a few tuners and see what can be done. I am in CA so everything needs to be set except Evap.

Also doesn’t help that the car didn’t come with stock exhaust system only had the cable and USB drive in the glovebox, have to figure out how I can get the cats and then maybe have the dealer flash it to stock.

Would you happen to know where and what type of star would work sufficiently on this platform, I’m new to the Benz world, have always ever had bimmers.

GinDistiller

Oh boy I was hoping you weren't in CA...cats are crazy expensive on these cars and legally people can't sell them used (although sometimes you can find them). I wouldn't be surprised in new factory cats were in the $4k range, maybe more. Your best bet might be talking to an exhaust shop about welding in aftermarket cats, not sure what regulations CA has on those but any local exhaust shop should know what workarounds exist.

The dealer probably can't flash to stock, they'd be ordering a new ECM and coding it to your VIN which will also be crazy expensive. You're much better off getting a near-stock map from one of the tuners in that case as I believe they have those as backups for people who lose their stock maps when flashing upgraded ones. The pulley has no effect on emissions either so if going the tuner route, at least keep that in place and have a map sent for that plus factory exhaust.

STAR is the dealer diagnostic tool, often in laptop form with a special cable box connector for communicating with and coding the ECU. Most available are Chinese knock offs that run $500-$700 but they work fine once you get used to the system. It's in there that you can tell the o2 sensors to work in the rear, and of course do any diagnostic work, special SBC brake flush procedures etc. If you're not daily driving it and don't do a lot of your own work, you might be better off just finding a shop that has STAR and using them occasionally. If you're putting a lot of miles as a daily then it's worth the investment to get that system.

fruitsalt

Yeah, I called the dealer in the morning they want 2500 each side :'(. Do you think the CATS and exhaust from an 06 CLS 55 would work. A family member has one, I know it will be a lot of work but seems like there is no other option.

I will reach out to tuners to get as close to stock map as I can get, seeing what the CATS cost the ECM is probably going to be an arm and leg too. Would leaving the 77mm super charger pulley cause any issues with the stockish map and exhaust ?

I do majority of my work myself, but I am learning about Benz's. Have never owned one before has always been Bimmers, will look into STAR, would you recommend getting a C4 or C5 ?
It won't be a daily driver, I was able to get it for dirt cheap that's the only reason I even bought it besides I love the Bimmers drive too much to give that up. Plan to take it out once in a while to have a bit of fun other then that she's going to be a garage queen.

GinDistiller

You shouldn't run a 77mm pulley on a stock tune, although there's no reason a tuner can't get you a map for that as the only mod and it should pass emissions once you have the exhaust figured out.

For STAR I'd just get a C3, the C4 and especially C5 are better for the newer Benz models but the C3 works just fine and is less prone to issues when buying aftermarket.

The CLS cats might be the same or close, but the different chassis has different bends in the exhaust so it would still need custom work to fit. Again I think you might be better off just having an aftermarket cat welded in if CA allows that. Then, literally all you would need to do is get STAR and turn the rear o2 sensors back on and it should pass. Although...do they still do rigorous visual inspections? In that case the headers might red flag you. But I know in most states as long as you have cats, and readiness codes all set, that should get you through.

Best of luck!

fruitsalt

Some places do a visual inspection and some don't, but sometimes you have to go get it smogged at a state referee which would require a completely stock system. Will talk to a few shops and see what my options are in terms of aftermarket cats.

I will look into getting the C3, are Chinese knock off for the C3 stable enough or should I be looking for a used genuine one.

Thank you again, you've been of great help.

GinDistiller

Of course! Finding a used Genuine one is near impossible, the Chinese ones work just fine from what I've heard (and I've had mine for a few years with no issues). Just make sure you get one with 'developer mode' to do coding like the rear o2s. Sometimes kits pop up on Ebay that people sell when they've sold their car, that's how I bought mine. Or you'll see them occasionally in the classifieds section on this site too.

machild

If a Star/SDS/DAS/Xentry system does not have Developer Mode, all that needs to be done is a different start key that provides for Developr Mode. Anyone that has a key generator can provide that.

Amir_AMG

Im on mobile but if you are in CA there are hundreds, if not thousands of places that will pass your cars smog check for a fee. I do not live in Los Angeles anymore, and obviously it is sketchy and illegal…

remix405

from what I read you are in LA you should visit benztec in Bellflower or Benzwork they should be able to help you out with star and stock tune. I just smogged my e55 and all they did was plug in for the readiness codes and visual inspection.

kevm14

Another option is a tool like the Launch x431 Diagun (they have a range of offerings). The Diagun is on the cheaper side and is smartphone sized. Unlike STAR it does basically everything on any car (certain features on certain cars are unsupported and you roll the dice here so do your research) and based on some limited information it does seem like a solid option for our cars, supposedly being able to do everything STAR can do and maybe even developer mode things. For a similar price this seems like a much better option than some ancient Dell laptop running nearly indecipherable software, and it does lots and lots of other makes/models. Food for thought. I am still looking into it. These tools are in high demand as independent shops try to stay relevant on modern vehicles. Even 5 years ago you may have "needed" STAR for certain tasks but that has rapidly changed.

fruitsalt

I was trying not to go that route. Besides we recently had a crack down in the Central Valley and not sure if anyone is even willing to do so.
I was able to get the vehicle ready for smog using a tune that had rear o2's turned on. It threw me a cel for bank 1 Lean, the cel has disappeared but am waiting on the stored code to clear before taking it in.

I am in the Central Valley, not sure if we have any tuners out here but I was able to get all monitors ready

Thank you for all your help, I was able to get the car ready by getting a tune with rear O2's on and reverting to the tune with them off as soon as everything set. Unfortunately it did throw me a cel for bank 1 running lean, the cel has cleared but waiting on the stored code to clear before taking her in.

Thank you for the recommendation, I do have a snap on modis ultra but I don't think it does what STAR does. I have emailed Launch x431 with questions on certain abilities and will get back once I have a response.


Thank you to everyone who provided insight into my emissions issue, have been able to get the vehicle ready in terms of emission monitors. Apologize for the late response I had a rough time with the second covid shot and was out for sometime.

I do have a few questions though on a different issue and not sure if I should start a new thread.

I am replacing the water pump, thermostat, radiator, coolant bottle, IC pump and hoses on the vehicle since I don't know when they were last replaced.
The coolant in the car is currently the universal green one, I will get majority of it out by removing the above stated parts but how would I go about draining the coolant that is currently in the block and heater core ?
also how will I be able to fill the block up with coolant ? is it just put all parts back on put in 50/50 mix Mercedes coolant and wait till thermostat opens for it to suck into the block ?
Can the return hose from the IC pump ( point used to bleed the heat exchanger ) be used to remove all coolant ? say get the car up to temp. One person pours in distilled water into the expansion tank and the other handles the hose to remove coolant by providing power to the IC pump. would that work ?

machild

Here is the WIS document on the engine block coolant drain locations (both sides of the block).

hachiroku

You can return your ECU back to stock safely. Can't say how it'll run with the mods though.

fruitsalt

Thank you, that helps a lot. Would you happen to know if doing it this way would remove the coolant from the heater core or if I need to do something else to get that out.

fruitsalt

Thank you, was able to solve the problem

machild

I'm fairly sure it will not drain the heater core. It may get about half out but not all of it. You should be able (I have not done it on the 211/219 platform) to flush it out with distilled water. Once it is clear, fill the entire system with the proper coolant/mixed with distilled water. Once the engine has been run and mixed all the coolant system the slight dilution of the distilled water only in the heater core will not meaningfully change the overall mixtuere when mixed through the system. Once fully refilled run the heater on max heat for a little while to fully mix the overall mixture with the straight distilled water in the core. Hope that helps.

corvettekyle

I would reach out to Race IQ for new ECU tuning and find a local Indy that has STAR. What you will need to do is have the o2 sensors turned ON in the tune (regardless of whether secondaries are actually installed) and then they need to be coded OFF in STAR. This will set the o2 monitor to Ready.

I went through the same ordeal when I bought mine also with EC tune, seems that Eurocharged just turns the o2 sensors off in TUNE as to not throw a CEL, but they will never show ready for emissions as long as they remain coded on with STAR.

As for actually passing emissions I am in Texas so not sure if you will have to pass a visual inspection or sniffer in CA.

Note that when coding out the sensors with STAR there are a few pre requisites for coding to stick, one of which being no current codes. This threw me for a loop because I had a persistent code for the oil level sensor that would come back immediately after being cleared, the coding would not stick until I replaced the sensor. Check thread for more info on STAR, there are discussions about this that will be helpful-

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-possible.html


Nevermind, just saw you solved the issue

equitiesguy

It won't drain the heater core at all since it's behind the valve, which makes risking opening the plastic screw on the radiator (which breaks all the time, and leaks) and disturbing the drain on the block a waste of time.

Fortunately, there's an easier way. Pull the hose off the intercooler side of the intercooler pump (between the pump and the intercooler) and it will drain the entire system, including the radiator. It's actually the lowest point on the car. Fill the entire system back up with proper coolant/distilled mix, turn on the heater full blast, and let everything mix while you bleed it through the intercooler port.

Then drain it a second time, and you've sufficiently flushed the entire system with little effort or grief.

It's the same with the transmission --- people don't realize it's easier (and better) to drain it twice, than run that chemical through it in order to "flush" it since you can't get the fluid out of the torque converter anyway.

kevm14

Thanks. That sounds like good advice as I am tinkering with doing my coolant before a long road trip next month. Probably saved me hassle and time. Can I turn my heat on before shutting the car off or does that valve close anyway?

fruitsalt

Thank you, im planning on replacing the cooling system this weekend.
I was going to attempt draining the block but the way the headers are its pretty difficult to get anything straight onto the drain bolt.
I am planning on draining the radiator, fill it up with distilled water and get up to temp and drain again, thinking 2-3 times should get everything out and leave only distilled water in the system. Then replace the radiator, water-pump, thermostat, hoses, Bosch Pump and refill with Mercedes antifreeze.