tw2

I am slowly looking for all the bits I need for rear main seal replacement. MB wants $400-500 for the tool.
$457 genuine tool https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../111589084300/
$325 aftermarket but looks good quality https://www.ebay.com/itm/182765517842 I have their fuel pump lock ring tool which is solid.
$150 https://www.ebay.com/itm/32371271498...MAAOSwmetcdkkF This one was fairly cheap from China but the quality might not be the best. They don't show the inside of the tool but the outside doesn't have the best finish and I presume it needs to be perfect on the inside so as not to tear the seal. Any thoughts?

Also can I do this job on jackstands? My jack can raise the car to 600mm (23"). I will buy a trans jack as well.
Dumb question, does the oil need to be drained or does it sit below the seal level?

E55Greasemonkey

You must replace the rear main plate, which is what leaks due to the silicone hardening over time. You install the new seal in the new plate before you install the assembly. Skilled mechanics can use a mallet to install the seal. The new seal comes with a plastic tool that guides it over the crankshaft when installing it together with the plate. There's more to it, but it's a lot to type. Try searching here, I'm sure it's been covered in detail. This job will suck on jackstands. Indy shops usually charge around $500 labor, well worth it if you don't have a lift.

tw2

I already have my parts list. This has been my main source of information https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...what-else.html My local dealer will likely want NZ$1300+ from memory. And I much rather do it myself if I can, even if it takes me a week or two I will make sure every single bolt is torqued correctly and everything is cleaned up perfectly. When they rebuilt the 722.6 in my last AMG, trans fluid exploded all over my driveway after the trip home from the dealer. I wouldn't call myself a skilled mechanic but I just finished a full engine rebuild of my other car.

112-997-02-46 rear main seal
910143-006001 I believe are the bolts for the plate, I think 11 are needed
124-990-22-01 I think these are the flywheel bolts, 8 needed
112-011-02-08 seal holding plate
003989982010 MB sealant
Transmission mount
Several liters of fuch titan, drain plug, gasket, filter, pan seal. Incidentally I just did a pan fluid change today.

The only parts I have yet to work out are the transmission bush and clips I have seen mentioned and any parts needed for the trans fluid lines.

I understood the white plastic part is not supposed to be used for installtion. The seal is supposed to be installed into the plate only after the plate has been sealed and bolted to the block. To me it looks like the installation tool uses two of the crank bolt holes to attach?

E55Greasemonkey

I've replaced hundreds of these rear main seals over the last 19 years. Take my advice, or don't. Your choice. Good luck.

kevm14

Wow, that makes me want to find a good indy shop in my area. I would definitely consider this job for the $500 range (plus materials). All I have right now is jack stands, so that hits close to home. I also don't know what proportion of my issue is that plate vs something like an oil pan gasket. But I bet it needs to be done even if there are other leaks.

tw2

I am definitely taking your advice on board. I just don't have anyone I can trust to do this work for me. I appreciate any knowledge and even if I do end up paying someone it would still be great to discuss my other questions if you are willing. I have done the conductor plate replacement on jackstands, that wasn't too bad.

kevm14

Yes I've R&R'd the conductor plate to replace my TCC solenoid on jack stands. No big deal. Pulling the trans is another animal.

tw2

I think the main limitation will be trans height + jack vs clearance under the car. Although access is terrible, there aren't that many things to disconnect. I will contact my dealer again for an up to date quote.

kevm14

Yes. Getting the car up in the air and a decent adapter on a jack would probably go a long way. Still sucks on the floor though. I am looking into a Quick Jack myself....not enough height for full lift. Need to build another garage....but that's another story.

SICAMG

Tw2 trans is 2 hrs on your back and with two people to remove the exhaust and turn crank to remove torque converter bolts makes the job much easyer. Rear main is real easy to put on as well.
And as Greasemonkey said the job does suck on your back and for me kicks my ***,back and neck big time !!! But if you have to do it the key is ....get the car up REAL high so you can move around underneath.