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This would be very cool to do and I don’t think would be extremely hard. Only designing those runner ports from the intercooler to the intake manifold would be kind of challenging as well as expensive for machining unless made in two parts I think.
Here is a pic of the measurements I was talking about:
Im fairly positive they line up correctly on both sides from when I put the same tank over both base plates. Unsure if flipping them around would work. We will have to see once I can figure out how to get it 3d printed ahah.
Did some investigation and 4" may be tight on the very front of intake. Hate to say it but maybe a 3.5" tall would be safer ? Accounting for engine movement in both directions, worn motor mounts and such for the average person.
Did some investigation and 4" may be tight on the very front of intake. Hate to say it but maybe a 3.5" tall would be safer ? Accounting for engine movement in both directions, worn motor mounts and such for the average person.
I agree with this fully, I can reduce the size again if needed but trying to get the base plated printed and mocked up first to make sure I don't have to change any designs of the tank or plate. The website refunded my order and made me pay even more for the base plate to get printed.
I agree with this fully, I can reduce the size again if needed but trying to get the base plated printed and mocked up first to make sure I don't have to change any designs of the tank or plate. The website refunded my order and made me pay even more for the base plate to get printed.
It is possible to taper the front of the tank. You do not necessarily need to reduce the height for the entire length.
Is the taper there for hood clearance, or to make sure the pressure is distributed evenly to all 4 cylinders? Without testing each individual cylinder mixture under full boost with the modified intake manifold, you run the risk of leaning out some cylinders. Could this be why the VRP intakes cause a lean condition that needs to be tuned out? Proceed with caution, this project may not be a good idea.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 11-27-2021 at 11:28 AM.
I could but some people didn't want the taper because it reduce the internal volume size so less air. I could taper it tho.
You had posted about reducing the overall height for hood clearance. That would also reduce volume. I simply suggested a slight taper at the front for clearance if that is all that is needed.
A taper would add a small amount of machining time, but there are ways to do it quickly if a perfect surface finish is not required.
Is the taper there for hood clearance, or to make sure the pressure is distributed evenly to all 4 cylinders? Without testing each individual cylinder mixture under full boost with the modified intake manifold, you run the risk of leaning out some cylinders. Could this be why the VRP intakes cause a lean condition that needs to be tuned out? Proceed with caution, this project may not be a good idea.
The lean condition from VRP surge tanks is because of an increase in the air from the larger open tanks, but I do feel like the slop has something to do with directing air around.
You had posted about reducing the overall height for hood clearance. That would also reduce volume. I simply suggested a slight taper at the front for clearance if that is all that is needed.
A taper would add a small amount of machining time, but there are ways to do it quickly if a perfect surface finish is not required.
Could do it easily but first need to figure out if those 4" total height will work, if not we will probably have to add a taper.
I could put a roughed out prototype on the flow bench if you wanted to get some idea of what each port is doing. Wouldn't help under boost but something to have info wise.
I could put a roughed out prototype on the flow bench if you wanted to get some idea of what each port is doing. Wouldn't help under boost but something to have info wise.
It should also be possible to use the Solidworks model to do a CFD analysis of the design. I do not have experience using that module of Solidworks, but you might try some of the CAD forums. They might help.
Got a quote for the tanks finally from one place it would be $383 each for the top hats and base plates I don’t know yet, I know for sure I could find cheaper in 6061 billet aluminum
Got a quote for the tanks finally from one place it would be $383 each for the top hats and base plates I don’t know yet, I know for sure I could find cheaper in 6061 billet aluminum
I would need to check material costs, but I am fairly certain I could make them for quite a bit less than that. At that price you might as well just order a set from someone that already makes them.
Just guessing, but I should be able to do them for about $250 each for the tanks. I do not think the base plates would be too expensive to make, but I would need to spend some time looking at them before commenting further.
Yeah, would be better to just buy vrp at this point but we will prevail and make cheaper self designed tanks!
If you could do $250 a piece and those bass plates shouldn’t be nearly as expensive then this would be possible.
Just need to find a place to print the stupid top hat or just slice it up and glue together multiple pieces.
Or could do cardboard aided design and see if it just fits lol.
I would print it out in pieces and glue it together, both the tanks and the base plate. I would think you could find someone with a hobby machine that could do it cheap.
VRP had their setup on sale for $900 I thought. Even at $500 for the tanks and say, $250 for both base plates (just a guess) the math still isn't great. The inlets still need to be made and welded on. If you still want to do it I will look into it in more detail. I have spent a fair amount of time already, so I don't want to go through the CAM/Tooling path generation if it is not going to happen.
For someone like me the VRP will not work. They have a rubber elbow inlet and that is where my Nitrous nozzles are installed / threaded in. Man I wish my father in law was alive. He would make a wooden pattern by hand and than cast them at his foundry.
For someone like me the VRP will not work. They have a rubber elbow inlet and that is where my Nitrous nozzles are installed / threaded in. Man I wish my father in law was alive. He would make a wooden pattern by hand and than cast them at his foundry.
Casting would be a cheaper way to go for any sort of volume. I don't think making one or two sets would pencil out.
Someone could try doing a sand casting using a 3D printed model as the core. I have seen it done, but a little hit and miss. Machining would still be necessary to finish it and achieve a good seal.
11-23-2021, 04:06 PM
