Calling Audiophiles! Subwoofer Wiring/Options
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Super Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 697
Likes: 172
From: Seattle, WA
2019 M5 Comp, 2005 Ariel Atom 2
Calling Audiophiles! Subwoofer Wiring/Options
I need to add bass. I have the factory HK system, but running off of a Pioneer Avic head unit and only powering the 4 main door speakers. Apparently when the previous owner had the head unit installed, the only wire harness they could get was one that left out the rear deck sub/speakers and front center channel. The installation also removed the factory amp in the rear, which I still have in a box in the garage.
The installation is clean without cuts, the harness from the front plugs into the harness that used to be in the rear amp, just leaves the extra channels terminating to nowhere.
Questions:
1) Is it worth the effort to install an amp and tie into the other factory speakers? It would be the easiest route, but as I've never heard the rear subwoofer since owning the car I don't know how good (or bad) it is.
2) If I opt to cut the rear deck and install an aftermarket 10" sub (I've seen a few threads covering that), does anyone have experience with using a line out converter over a direct RCA signal from the head unit to the amp? I know I'd lose the adjustability from the head unit while driving, but it also wouldn't involve tearing the trim, center console etc apart to run an RCA cable all the way back...
Curious on your thoughts and suggestions, this bad weather has me project-focused and I'd love to get this system sounding better!
The installation is clean without cuts, the harness from the front plugs into the harness that used to be in the rear amp, just leaves the extra channels terminating to nowhere.
Questions:
1) Is it worth the effort to install an amp and tie into the other factory speakers? It would be the easiest route, but as I've never heard the rear subwoofer since owning the car I don't know how good (or bad) it is.
2) If I opt to cut the rear deck and install an aftermarket 10" sub (I've seen a few threads covering that), does anyone have experience with using a line out converter over a direct RCA signal from the head unit to the amp? I know I'd lose the adjustability from the head unit while driving, but it also wouldn't involve tearing the trim, center console etc apart to run an RCA cable all the way back...
Curious on your thoughts and suggestions, this bad weather has me project-focused and I'd love to get this system sounding better!
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This place is a joke.
I'm in the middle of converting my stock system to a bluetooth aux input and just ordered a powered sub to bypass the factory sub. The factory sub has good low bass but little to no mid bass or "thump."
This one has remote gain control which is a really nice feature for different kinds of music.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0794YHK5M?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
This one has remote gain control which is a really nice feature for different kinds of music.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0794YHK5M?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jan 12, 2022 at 11:18 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 697
Likes: 172
From: Seattle, WA
2019 M5 Comp, 2005 Ariel Atom 2
That would be nice to have a separate control like that. I listen to a fair bit of rock so I need those hard hitting mids!
I have a great stealthbox setup w/ two 8" JL subs in my M3, and they run off a dedicated amp and signal. What I don't want to do is regret cutting wires and/or getting a muddy signal with a LOC.
I have a great stealthbox setup w/ two 8" JL subs in my M3, and they run off a dedicated amp and signal. What I don't want to do is regret cutting wires and/or getting a muddy signal with a LOC.
Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 116
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2005 e55
I'm in the middle of converting my stock system to a bluetooth aux input and just ordered a powered sub to bypass the factory sub. The factory sub has good low bass but little to no mid bass or "thump."
This one has remote gain control which is a really nice feature for different kinds of music.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0794...b_b_prod_image
This one has remote gain control which is a really nice feature for different kinds of music.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0794...b_b_prod_image
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 697
Likes: 172
From: Seattle, WA
2019 M5 Comp, 2005 Ariel Atom 2
From what I've read, our trunks are too insulated to offer any kind of clean bass above certain frequencies, using the rear deck where the factory sub is located is ideal because the trunk essentially becomes the 'box' and the sound goes directly into the cabin. If you left the factory sub in there, it would just block an extra sub in the trunk (which would sound muddy). They might even fight each other since the factory sub is free air. You listen to the same music spread that I do, and if the factory sub is lacking mid punch, then that's what you need to add in, and it won't come through well sealed in the trunk.
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This place is a joke.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1,515
From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
From what I've read, our trunks are too insulated to offer any kind of clean bass above certain frequencies, using the rear deck where the factory sub is located is ideal because the trunk essentially becomes the 'box' and the sound goes directly into the cabin. If you left the factory sub in there, it would just block an extra sub in the trunk (which would sound muddy). They might even fight each other since the factory sub is free air. You listen to the same music spread that I do, and if the factory sub is lacking mid punch, then that's what you need to add in, and it won't come through well sealed in the trunk.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jan 12, 2022 at 02:53 PM.
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 697
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From: Seattle, WA
2019 M5 Comp, 2005 Ariel Atom 2
I agree, just answering the question on running both the factory sub and another sub in the trunk at the same time. I have no doubt removing the factory stuff would let plenty of sound in, but I think it's probably a semi-wasted effort to double up unless you just want more low end thump.
I'm going to start fabbing an MDF mount for a new sub and remove the factory sub, we'll see where it goes!
I'm going to start fabbing an MDF mount for a new sub and remove the factory sub, we'll see where it goes!
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This place is a joke.
I've always found a sealed 10" to be more punchy and to my liking than a ported of free air 10/12". I like to feel like Neil Peart (RIP) is sitting in my trunk. 
It's also just enough to give me the lower end for Dynamix II or MC ADE.
In 1995 I had an Astro van with four 15" Cerwin Vega's and two Coustic 460's, then later a Dodge Dakota with two Kicker 10's and Punch amps...with remote gain dial which was great. Looking forward to that in the E55.
It's also just enough to give me the lower end for Dynamix II or MC ADE.In 1995 I had an Astro van with four 15" Cerwin Vega's and two Coustic 460's, then later a Dodge Dakota with two Kicker 10's and Punch amps...with remote gain dial which was great. Looking forward to that in the E55.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jan 13, 2022 at 09:23 AM.
