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Highlights of upgrading my supercharger cooling system. Much of my inspiration came from the work that @UncleBenz55 has done on his E55 (see his complete thread here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...erent-e55.html). Part of his upgrade was the use of a plate type H/E cooler from a S55 located in front of the A/C condenser. This plate type cooler is about the same width of the A/C condenser but is smaller than the Condenser in overall height.
MB, in some models, attach and hang heat exchangers off A/C condensers such as transmission and power steering fluid heat exchanges. UncleBenz55 did just that by hanging the S55 H/E off the A/C condenser. Using that approach I have used the larger SL55 plate type H/E and I too have hung it off the A/C condenser. The S55 H/E dimensions are: 620mmW x 265mmH x 16mmD while the SL55 is 620W x 410H x 24D. So the SL55 is taller and thicker than the S55 H/E. The S55 H/E is reported to have a liquid volume capacity of 350mL while I have measured the SL55 volume to be 1,000mL.
To increae the overall fluid volume I upgraded my stock bar type H/E with the largest PLM XL bar type. It is attached on the underside of the front bumper crash bar and moved forward as much possible to allow room for the SL55 H/E to be in front of the A/C condenser. The small stock oil cooler that hangs from the bottom of the stock H/E is attached to the bottom of the PLM H/E and is positioned correctly to line up with the belly pan opening to allow the cooling air an exit. The belly pans all fit correctly without modification.
Measured volume of new intercooler system:
SL55 Plate 1,000mL
PLM XL 1,100mL
Total 2,100mL
Original stock H/E: 750mL (measured)
While PLM states the XL H/E has a volume of 2,250mL, I could only get 1,100mL of liquid in the one I purchased.
The SL55 H/E comes with an attached power steering fluid H/E mounted at the top of the intercooler H/E (this is the stock setup for the SL55 model). I used and repositioned that P/S cooler instead of the stock P/S cooler as it was easier to fit in the space. I hung it off the SL55 H/E.The overall layout of all these H/E's
from engine moving forward toward the grille: radiator; A/C condenser; SL55 plate H/E; and P/S cooler. Then the PLM H/E is in front of all of that and attached to the bottom of the bumper crash bar.
To wrap up the cooling system I also upgraded the circulation pump with a Pierburg CWA100 and separated the intercooler cooling from the engine coolant system. As part of that separation, I again followed the proven path of UncleBenz55 and used the small coolant reservoir from the turbo charged M157/M278 engines.
Questions are welcomed.
Stock SL55 H/E with P/S cooler on top
As Installed: Radiator, A/C Condenser, SL55 H/E, PS Cooler
PLM XL Installed with oil cooler attached on the bottom
Hello, I really like the small coolant reservoir vs the PS reservoir most split cooling kits have. Do you have a part number please? I have a VRP split cooling kit that I never installed since the volume was just not there. I've added to my CLS55 a VRP secondary heat exchanger plumbed to be the first cooler in series than to the stock H/E with a Bosch 010 pump. That's awesome the PLM XL heat exchanger will fit on a CLS55 without the bottom pan or lip sticking down plus having room for the stock oil cooler. Thank you for sharing!
Hello, I really like the small coolant reservoir vs the PS reservoir most split cooling kits have. Do you have a part number please? I have a VRP split cooling kit that I never installed since the volume was just not there. I've added to my CLS55 a VRP secondary heat exchanger plumbed to be the first cooler in series than to the stock H/E with a Bosch 010 pump. That's awesome the PLM XL heat exchanger will fit on a CLS55 without the bottom pan or lip sticking down plus having room for the stock oil cooler. Thank you for sharing!
The reservoir part number is 278 200 03 85. The basic reservoir can also be found with different bracketry under other part numbers. For this install, most of the bracket has been removed. Many can be found from salvage yards on eBay.
Thank you very much for this as I still have to mount my upgrade intercooler!
While much of what I did with the PLM H/E was specific to my situation - such as the need to move it forward, there were some issues that should be applicable to any install of that unit. Need details?
I do, any information is welcome. Might be best to post it here as it will make this thread way more valuable than it already is.
I just scanned my build thread and it seems you already provided valuable information
Originally Posted by machild
The standard size is about 63mm thick and the XL is about 76mm. Yes, different bumper crash bars so no matter you will have to drill holes. Where you locate the HE will dictate where you can secure it with the two bolts on each side or just one on each side. I will only be able to secure it with one bolt on each side. You will likely (almost sure) need to have longer bolts. The standard bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 110mm and I upped mine by 10mm. That was the longest I could get locally, but if I had my choice I would have upped it by an addiontal 5 - 10mm. There is 'stuff' that keeps the HE from seating on the bottom side of the bumper crash bar so I used 6-7mm spacers to keep the HE a bit lower and not interferring with that other stuff that is attached to the crash bar. I also replace two small M6 bolts that hold the visible bumper to the crash bar. I used a smaller torx bolt to minimize the stuff in the way of the HE.
Yes, standard model. Here are my notes on the install.Some details on PLM XL H/E install on the CLS55. I did not remove the bumper cover and I did not find working around it bothersome. I don’t know if there is any difference on mounting issues between the standard PLM and the larger capacity XL version. I know the larger one is 76mm deep (vs the standard at 63mm) so it will consume more space. Barry Birdwell did a very good write up on installing the PLM on a W211 so it would be helpful to review that too. It is here: https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...formation.html
The PLM unit is designed for the W211 E55 so the mounting holes do not match with the crash bar securing bolts. New holes on the H/E mount tabs will be required. In my case the mounting tabs could only be secured to one of the two bolts on each side. It is solidly mounted.
I used a piece of 3mm thick foam board cut to the same size as the top of the H/E including the mounting tabs. This allowed me to work as though it was the H/E in place but not it in the way. It allowed me to see where obstacles were issues. I figured out how far the H/E could be mounted forward and then put holes to match up with the locations of the two inner crash bar bolts on each side. I put the template in place and then marked where the mounting tabs needed to be trimmed in order to not interfere with any other components of the crash bar or bumper.
There are a couple of bumper brackets that are connected to the bottom of the crash bar and end up between the H/E and the crash bar. Therefore, I used a 6mm spacer on both ends to hold the H/E down that amount and no interfere with those other brackets and items. With those spacers longer bolts are required, I used M12 x 120mm which are 10mm longer than stock.
I installed a new circulating pump and moved it forward so that the stock short hose section that goes from the pump to the bottom of the H/E was maintained. Left/Drivers side straight up at H/E mounting tab
Awesome, thanks a lot! Am I reading this correctly that you mounted it without removing the front bumper?
Yes, you read that correctly. No bumper removal. As you look at the pics I posted, you can see there is clear access available with the bumper in place. The second pic probably shows that best. Much of our guidance comes from the E55 owners and that bumper may be just enough different that removal of it is the best answer. But I never removed it for any of this retro/fabrication of the H/E's, plumbing, and pump.
Hmm, that might simplify things, as I was hesistant to start as I was under the assumption that bumper removal was absolutely necessary. I have some ramps for the car, but I am saving up for some quickjacks as I will feel a lot more secure when lying under a 1900kg car
Hmm, that might simplify things, as I was hesistant to start as I was under the assumption that bumper removal was absolutely necessary. I have some ramps for the car, but I am saving up for some quickjacks as I will feel a lot more secure when lying under a 1900kg car
Yes, safety is number one. Just out of curiousity, have you filled the PLM H/E you have to see how much volume it actually will hold? Since I measured the stock MB unit at 750mL, it would be interesting to see what this aftermarket unit is.
Do you happen to have any new data running this setup?
No, the car has not actually been driven out of my shop with this setup. I'm still wrapping up some issues like finishing up the electric stuff for the Pierburg pump. I also think I may have some air in the system so I need to figure out how i'm going to get it burped out of there. @UncleBenz55 has a video on post #71 of his thread (link posted above) of him running his car on a road course track in Germany. His IAT numbers were pretty good. His total fluid volume with his H/E setup is about 1,700mL so I am assuming at 2,100mL I should be in similar situation.
Regarding the pump, will you also rewire it so it runs on ignition? That will be my planning at least
Originally Posted by machild
Yes, safety is number one. Just out of curiousity, have you filled the PLM H/E you have to see how much volume it actually will hold? Since I measured the stock MB unit at 750mL, it would be interesting to see what this aftermarket unit is.
Regarding the pump, will you also rewire it so it runs on ignition? That will be my planning at least
Will do! Maybe something for the weekend
Yes, I connected the power lead of the pump to fuse 51 in the front SAM. This is switched hot with key on. Fuse #51 feeds out through connection C1 (white connector on my car) location #9 on the bottom side of the SAM. Ground was connected to the ground point under and behind the right headlight near the ABS module.
Yes getting the air out of the system was a pain with 3 He's. Easiest solution would be to fill up the system with vacuum, how MB does it on the newer cars. Without the special tool, you need to let the pump run and I think I squeszed the return line of the supercharger intercooler together and somehow forced the air out. I also let the car sit over night agmfter that and the fluid dropped some more. I then topped up and continued with squeezing the hoses together to get the air out. The return line is the upper one from the two supercharger coolant lines.
Yes getting the air out of the system was a pain with 3 He's. Easiest solution would be to fill up the system with vacuum, how MB does it on the newer cars. Without the special tool, you need to let the pump run and I think I squeszed the return line of the supercharger intercooler together and somehow forced the air out. I also let the car sit over night agmfter that and the fluid dropped some more. I then topped up and continued with squeezing the hoses together to get the air out. The return line is the upper one from the two supercharger coolant lines.
Thanks for jumping in on this. I did have the fluid level drop overnight before I clamped off the return line off the SC unit. But, with that line clamped I expected to get fluid coming back to the reservoir from the small 8mm return line but nothing is flowing through that line. My gut is telling me I have air at the top of the SL55 H/E. My plan is to slightly pressurize the system and then loosen the hose clamp at the top connection of that H/E and hopefully with the pressure force the air out at that high point.
It does take quite a while to get the air pushed out. Problem is also, the pump doesn't suck the water if there's air between. The water needs to be in the pump to start circulating. It's almost a year, since I did it in mine, but it was a hassle to bleed it. I think I squeezed the small 8mm line and then the return line from the sc and then after like 30mins it started properly circulating
It does take quite a while to get the air pushed out. Problem is also, the pump doesn't suck the water if there's air between. The water needs to be in the pump to start circulating. It's almost a year, since I did it in mine, but it was a hassle to bleed it. I think I squeezed the small 8mm line and then the return line from the sc and then after like 30mins it started properly circulating
I did as I mentioned of putting a little pressure in the system and then loosened the hose clamp and slid a small screw driver between the hose and the nipple to create a small escape path. As soon as I slid the screw driver in air started hissing out and it continued for awhile. I had to refill the reservoir several times as the air was pushed out. Eventually, it changed over to coolant coming out and and I removed the screw driver re-installed the hose clamp, clamped off the return line from the SC when fluid started flowing through the small return line. I let it run for quite a while with a good flow and then spurting with air in the flow. I will see how it works tomorrow but I feel I got the bulk, in not all, of the air out.
It does take quite a while to get the air pushed out. Problem is also, the pump doesn't suck the water if there's air between. The water needs to be in the pump to start circulating. It's almost a year, since I did it in mine, but it was a hassle to bleed it. I think I squeezed the small 8mm line and then the return line from the sc and then after like 30mins it started properly circulating
Interesting information, I remember also squeezing lines when I swapped the Bosch 010 for a new one when I was trying to bleed it.
I did as I mentioned of putting a little pressure in the system and then loosened the hose clamp and slid a small screw driver between the hose and the nipple to create a small escape path. As soon as I slid the screw driver in air started hissing out and it continued for awhile. I had to refill the reservoir several times as the air was pushed out. Eventually, it changed over to coolant coming out and and I removed the screw driver re-installed the hose clamp, clamped off the return line from the SC when fluid started flowing through the small return line. I let it run for quite a while with a good flow and then spurting with air in the flow. I will see how it works tomorrow but I feel I got the bulk, in not all, of the air out.
Final follow up on burping the air from the system. When I checked it the next day I wasn't getting any flow through the 8mm line which meant no flow through the system. I suspected this time that overnight air may have settled in the area of the pump. The plumbing circuit I created is for the coolant coming from the SC to go through the SL55 H/E, then through the PLM H/E, and then through the pump and back up to the SC. I again pressurized the system with the plan to loosen a hose clamp at the pump and give a small path for the air to exit. But, I quickly realized that by just pressurizing the system it was forcing air to move around (air compresses while the fluid won't so that creates movement) which meant the air eventually ended up in the reservoir. This dropped the fluid level so I added more back in and pressurized again. Did that several times and the drop in the coolant level had eventually deminished. I started the pump running and I had strong coolant circulation through the entire system including the 8mm line and very little to no air. So, I now do really think the air was there at the pump. Lesson learned - pressurizing can do more than just testing for leaks.
How did you pressure it? With that tool you put on the reservoir cap?
Yes, I originally only added about 2psi (0.14Bar) when I was pushing the air out of the SL55 H/E. In the second round, when I was trying to move the air back up to the reservoir, I used about 15psi (1 Bar) hoping that would move the air in the system faster up to the reservoir. When ever I do any work on a cooling system I pressurize and leave it for several hours before adding the water/coolant mix back in.
11-14-2022, 06:59 PM
