SLR cams/ported heads/forged pistons and your set.

I'll clear this up now, were dealing with a NA block, not a K. Not that it matters too much.

So are pistons cracking because of det or heat?
Is there a massive difference between what NA and K rods will put up with?

I'll be sure to upgrade the fuel pump. I'll also be fitting a fuel pressure sensor.
I have a egt sensor which I can use to monitor temps, alongside wideband.
This will all be managed by a standalone ecu.
I will most likely use a Ofgear controller for the trans.

800 crank at 22psi seems a bit low. Blsckbenzz stated that his NA setup held over 650whp before letting go.
I reckon there's a lot more to be gained from porting and a large turbo. The NA will make 400 crank easy without internal mods. I reckon 500hp NA is doable. 45 psi should get close to 2000hp.

Cracked piston is caused by knock, high timing, bad tune, high boost, melted piston/cylinder bore is caused by high temp like lean afr or high ait,
NA internals are all different from K one, na internals will not hold more then 550/600hp crank, K internals will hold till 750/800hp crank with good tune afr timing...,
now build engine with aftermarket forged pistons will not hold more then 1.8/1.9 bar boost about 28 psi, i have tested them on my old build c32, my forged racing pistons have also failed on 28psi boost with about 17/18 degrees timing,
so 770/800 hp crank we are seeing with bigger sc and about 1.5 bar 22psi, you can add about 200 shot nitrous safely to go about 900, 950 with ethanol, over that region you are risking your build engine.
now with the new 4L sc i don't know how much boost will add, so let's wait and see how the internals will hold.

800 is low ?? Wow for a bone stock engine I think that is really good !!

the reality is that this obsession with power numbers if born from 1320 and YouTube. Again, my 650hp is way more than I can let rip on the street. I get my highways hits every now and then, but I can't hardly go past 1/2 throttle around town.

800 crank, or 630whp+ is more than plenty. What the hell you gonna do with 2k? nothing, thats what.

I agree M5.....sort of. Every year, winter,I look for ways to make more power no matter what.
When I roll race it is VERY clear I need more power and if I can make 800 that would be great and would push the car even faster.
I feel my car is very fast and have been building/racing for many years but when I hit the track I am actually at the bottom of the classes as far as speed goes, not that I am comparing to everyone but 150-160-170-180+mph with almost every car having a license plate on it LOL. For my mods I have no idea where I'm at power wise but it's never enough for me LOL
I can't amagine what my car would feel like in the 160-170mph class !!!!!

SLR Cams won't add a whole bunch. They rather alter the power curve, so that the power doesn't drop at high rpms. Was the same with my Kleemann cams.

If you really want to add power, remove the parasitic supercharger and go for turbos. Or put a built M157 or M177 in.

Every build to date that I have read about has been on factory management. I've not seen anyone use a standalone ecu with widebands, and I certainly haven't heard of anyone optimising each cylinder. That is what I intend to do, and that is what will get past the 800hp barrier.

When you say the engine will not hold more than 1.9 bar of boost, are you talking about your experience, or m113's in general?
Were you using a supercharger on your c32? A turbo is preferable for making lots of boost. Superchargers just become hot air blowers after a while. The factory intercooler setup on m112k and m113k's doesn't appear to be sufficient for elevated levels of boost. This is much easier to deal with on a turbo setup. Charge air temperature can have a detrimental effect if not cooled sufficiently.

I say do it, let us know how it goes.

Are we related or something? You literally have been reading my mind for the past few posts you made on exactly what I would post.

650-700rw is the range I think for a street driven car - anything more than that range (I've owned a lot of high HP/TQ cars over the years) and the driveability will drop off a cliff... enjoyment begins to be compromised, and more big-ticket items start to break/need replacement.

700hp.....RWP can/has been done on stock motors so there is more left.

Common sense brothers

Have you dynoed your car to know the HP?
Or did the PO dyno it and show it to you?

Just curious as I’ve never dynoed mine and wonder what the HP and TQ might be.

im the 3rd owner, the second bought it and didn't really drive it. The seller had the dynos from down in Portland by the original owner.

Whatcha got done to get 630 to the wheels? That’s pretty high for basic mods imo

Not 630. Clarification here. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...2005-here.html