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2009 E63 AMG WAGON 2018 BMW M5 2008 BMW 550i 2006 BMW Z4
Rear subframe bushings
Hello MB fans. So I own 09 AMG wagon as some may know here. Recently I have gotten to replacing subframe bushes. Reason for that was that the car was kind of “wandering” around at highway speed and on uneven pavement. You could feel that at you butt while driving. Kind of like tramlining effect but from rear end. I’ve checked the bushes and notice very small hairline crack on them. I have then decided to replace them. I have done brakes all around since I had them as well. Replacing bushes made night and day difference. Car tracks ideally straight whatever the speed. I was however surprised that this was needed at 72K miles. Bolts were ok but I have replaced them since they are one time use. Just thought I would share my experience so if your W211 have those symptoms check your bushes. They can be replaced on the vehicle. Front ones are much worse to press out Rear ones are piece of cake.
Last edited by Rafichicago; 07-19-2023 at 11:58 AM.
2009 E63 AMG WAGON 2018 BMW M5 2008 BMW 550i 2006 BMW Z4
Honestly not much. I’ve used what I had in my garage and some imagination I have used threaded rod from the tool I have, and used few pvc pipes cut to size plus I have purchased several metal plates used for household electrical that cover junction boxes. I think it’s visible on the photo with car in the air and exhaust dropped. Exhaust has to be dropped and drive shaft unbolted from differential on passenger side rubber hose that is connected to the fuel tank. There’s connection for the airlines that have to be loosened up and I have released air from rear airbags. Airbag needs to be unbolted at the bottom and so does the shock. Rear bushings come out super easy. Front ones require much more force and make loud bang when popping out. I have replaced sway bar with links as well since there is no way to replace sway bar without dropping the subframe and I wouldn’t want to go back to dropping subframe again. Level sensor is bolted to the sway bar so you need to kind of remember its orientation when removing that. Other than that there is not much to it but you definitely need some tools floor jack patience time but the job isn’t all that bad and there’s some substantial savings vs doing it at the shop. You have to make note of the bushings orientation as well especially the front ones that can go in only one way there’s arrow that supposed to point towards car’s front the rear ones I believe can go in two ways. Because the job is quite time consuming I would only go with OEM bushes.
Last edited by Rafichicago; 07-20-2023 at 08:08 AM.
2009 E63 AMG WAGON 2018 BMW M5 2008 BMW 550i 2006 BMW Z4
I had to edit some things in previous post so I’ve just done that since my phone “knew” better than me what I want to write if anyone will approach this job one more thing. The front bushes on rear subframe can be a ***** to remove. Thing is that there’s no proper access from the bottom to press it out. I have used as big of a socket I had on one side and the thing would crack leaving metal piece inside of the subframe where it sits and leaked out stinky fluid. It was a major PITA to get out. I have used air hammer to kind of loosen it up and lots of manual persuasion with a 7lbs mallet. On the other side I took different approach. I had used a largest piece of pipe that would fit under it and pressed it out against rubber part of the bushing instead of metal part in the middle of it. That way it popped out as one piece but that’s in my case and it’s not guaranteed that it’ll happen every time. All in all if you feel your rear ended seems somewhat unstable at highway speeds and over cracks in the roadway those will quite possibly be your culprit. Check them with good light if you noticed any cracking. Even small they’re out.
Thanks for the clarification. The result you are describing I also experienced (with previous cars). I had a Golf 3 GTI (unfortunately the 8v) which was far from stable on the highway. I also replaced the bushings which made a major difference.
As for the level sensor, instead of disconnecting by way of removing its screws, one can simply pop off the Plastic Arm from the underbody of the car. Just carefully pry it away and then snap it back on when ready! at least, that's the way it's set up on my 2007 E63!!
07-19-2023, 11:53 AM
I have used threaded rod from the tool I have, and used few pvc pipes cut to size plus I have purchased several metal plates used for household electrical that cover junction boxes. I think it’s visible on the photo with car in the air and exhaust dropped. Exhaust has to be dropped and drive shaft unbolted from differential on passenger side rubber hose that is connected to the fuel tank. There’s connection for the airlines that have to be loosened up and I have released air from rear airbags. Airbag needs to be unbolted at the bottom and so does the shock. Rear bushings come out super easy. Front ones require much more force and make loud bang when popping out. I have replaced sway bar with links as well since there is no way to replace sway bar without dropping the subframe and I wouldn’t want to go back to dropping subframe again. Level sensor is bolted to the sway bar so you need to kind of remember its orientation when removing that. Other than that there is not much to it but you definitely need some tools floor jack patience time but the job isn’t all that bad and there’s some substantial savings vs doing it at the shop. You have to make note of the bushings orientation as well especially the front ones that can go in only one way there’s arrow that supposed to point towards car’s front the rear ones I believe can go in two ways. Because the job is quite time consuming I would only go with OEM bushes. 
