05 E55: vehicle to low message on the cluster. I ran my scan tool, 5500 (Critical vehicle level at front axle); 5501 (Critical vehicle level at rear axle); 5508 (The pressure line system leaks).

From Datastream:
049 B7 (Airmatic pressure sensor) @ .14 bar
042 Left front vehicle level : -60mm
045 Right front vehicle level: -56mm
048 Rear vehicle level: -65mm

I already replace the valve block. I'm not sure where to go from here. Should I just replace the compressor? Since the compressor does not stay on running it shuts off like after few seconds. I'm sure it's the original unit that still in the vehicle.

 

Could you still detect any leak with the compressor test (using your scanner)?

It could be the compressor or relay (or both)

 

Relay been replace forgot to mention it. Yes I have multiple scanners here at the shop including STAR. I ran those codes on a MBII iCarsoft and I also use a Snap On.

Thanks. I be ordering the compressor.

 

After +18 years, thats due for an replacement anyway indeed. Made the same decision on my CLS55 last year when I bought the car

 

If the compressor is noisy too it is a good sign that is failing. I had a RF strut on my CLS55 that was leaking down and the extra use of the air compressor started to make mine noisy and it did not have the rpm it used to. I ended up replacing BF struts with Bilsteins and rear bags with Arnott along with an Airmatic pump and relay.

 

Compressor been order and hopefully I will get it by Friday. If not I'm still pulling the old one out this Saturday no matter what and going to put some air into the lines and see if the bags hold up.

 

If your still running OEM airmatic components consider yourself lucky. Due to the age of the W211 platform, most of us have replaced these already.
Last year, I replaced my whole entire suspension including the airmatic components; air compressor, valve block, front struts and rear bags.
My E63 is 16 yrs old, and the suspension was tired. I thought why not replace everything including wheel bearings, ball joints, suspension arms, you name it.
This wasn't cheap, I might add. Ordered most of my Lemforder parts from FCP, but had to buy some parts from Mercedes, as my car was taking up valuable space at my buddy's lift.
It was one of those while your in there moments, and I didn't have the time to wait for FCP to ship. This is probably the best thing that you can do for your ride, is replace that old tired and worn out suspension.
Thou I can't recall how the vehicle drove when brand new, but it ride extremely well now.

 

Swap out compressor. Clear out all codes All bags are now filled. Going to leave it over night and see if the bags loose air.

 

Make sure system holds air. Otherwise you will soon need another compressor.
Take a sprayer and fill it with water and dish soap. Spray on lines and other Airmatic components. It’ll show any and all air leaks.

 

The line and bags are good there holding air left it for a few days and it’s still the same height. I record the measurements with a tape measure.

 

I'm glad that everything is working out for you.

 

You think you could list parts replaced ,I’m considering a full refresh on my e55 2005 . It’s slowly lifting when ever it wants scan tool detects leak in front but like you mentioned
it mite be worth swapping out the whole suspension. Airmatic on these w211 are an amazing ride when working properly
What was the cost of parts alone I’m going to start buying them soon

 

Keep in mind that this was last year. Basically, I replaced everything in the front and rear suspension.
I no longer have the list of parts that I replaced. But I will try to remember, but please don't ask me for part numbers.
I spent roughly $8K on parts and labor, so it wasn't cheap. I didn't replace the front knuckles or rear hub assemblies.
I ordered 90% of my parts from FCP Euro and the rest came from the dealership. Hopefully, I've captured everything.

Front:
Upper Wish Bones with ball joint
Air Struts
Tie Rod Ends
Air Compressor
Air Distribution Valve Block
Lower Control Arm
Thrust Arm
Sway Bar Links
Wheel Bearings
Ball Joints - All of them
Sway Bar Bushings

Rear:
Torque Arm
Tie Rod
Camber Arm
Lower Spring Arm
Wheel Bearings
Air Spring
Shocks
Sway Bar Links
Sway Bar Bushings

Just google Mercedes W211 Front Suspension and Rear Suspension diagram

 

Thank you appreciate it ,and yes this will be very helpful. Makes sense to replace everything if your going to keep the car and your already removing the suspension
I enjoy driving my e55 ,I had a e500 few years back but can’t compare to the compressor motor once that supercharger kicks in it’s smooth sailing
l haven’t really drove her on a open road but she moves effortlessly like she owns the road thx again for the list of parts

 

Some will say, that I was crazy to replace the entire suspension for $8K, when the car is only worth about $10-12K KBB value.
The bottom line is this, if you plan to keep this vehicle for a long time, it just makes sense to replace a tired and worn out suspension on a <20 year old vehicle.
I've been wanting to do this for quite sometime, but the cost was always the issue. So, I just decided to pull the trigger and go all in for a full suspension refresh.
Remember that Mercedes doesn't build solid cars like these anymore. When Mercedes built the W211 chassis, they had a dedicated production line just for the W211.
And parts were made just for this platform, nowadays common parts are shared across all Mercedes platforms. Cost cutting procedures.
Trust me your car will ride like new after a refreshed suspension. On a nicely paved road my car rides like it's floating on air.

 

I too went for a total suspension rebuild. I did it in 2 marathon builds with the first including both Head(s) rebuilt, Intake rebuild, A/C Compressor, PS Pump, Shorty Headers, Racing Brake Front Rotors/brakes, new ball joints, UPD Pulley Kit, new Torque Arms, F1 Fab Upper Front Camber Arms and a rebuild of Front Struts with new Air Compressor! The second marathon build started at the dawn of Covid with the Rear Main Seal, New DS Discs & Center shaft Bearing, 3.06 Gear Swap +LSD, New Shocks, UPD Rear Toe Arms and rebuilt Air Springs as well as All New Rubber Bushings in the rear (Rear Subframe (4) Center Front Diff support Cross (2), Rear Diff Mount (2), New Rear Torque Arms w/new bushing installed in Wheel Carrier(s) (2), K-Mac Poly replacement bushings installed in both upper Suspension Arms (8), steering box (4)). In addition I also replaced the Radiator/transmission fluid cooler/AC/Dryer, and just got doing the upper Radiator Hose due to a leak. When I did the Radiator, I had the hose as I also replaced the lower hoses, but it looked like that upper one to the T-Stat was fairly new along with the T-Stat itself, so I left it. Glad I bought ahead of time! I also had a spare T-Stat that paired well with that new Top Hose! I noticed the V-Ribbed Pulley had failed so UPD sent me one out for replacement cost as well as a set of their Air Intake Spacers to be used with Hi-Flo (thicker) filters ( ala BMC). Check out some picks of the build over the years!

Heads rebuilt by Xtreme Headz

Racing Brake Rotors!!

When tranny was out, I removed the TCU from the Valve Body, separated the VB and took some Throttle Body Cleaner and gave it good spray down. It was remarkably dirty when I opened it up!!

Rear Main Seal done. I used the OEM Installer to do it.

Here you can see the shiny new KMAC Poly OEM Bushings. I tightened them down to what would be spec. Only thing is, WIS calls for the OEM to be tightened only after the car is weight bearing. There is no way to do this without custom tools! So the KMAC’s you can tighten and once tightened, the arms do move so you can check the Carriers Clearance before to make sure the placement of the bushings are spot on! I had to make more than one adjustment myself!!

My DIY Bushing Extractor/Installer Tool!

I took the time to clean/paint the dust shields and I love those Studs for the wheels! UPD Rear Toe Arms shown in their glory before they were marred by some bonehead without the right tool (28mm Claw Socket).

 

Late update: E55 is now register (pass state inspection). Still need to do some work like motor mounts, header repair or replace, etc..