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I went for a dynorun yesterday, but the results were way lower than expected. As I have some comparison material (other CLS55 drivers in my vicinity & own dragy measurements), I think they measured wrong. My own conclusion so far, is that they didn't account for a torque converter gearbox. What do you guys think?
Results: 457bhp / 717Nm at the crank
Extra relevant info:
My CLS55 is supposedly to be stage 1 tuned
Stock crank pulley
Stock supercharger pulley
Stock airboxes
Stock throttle body
Upgraded intercooler
Bosch 010 pump, rewired to run on ignition
Center resonator delete
Stock exhaust (headers, cats, mufflers)
Last edited by nd-photo.nl; 10-16-2023 at 11:00 AM.
I think your right where you should be Nd....Considering Dyno differences,where you live and you have stock boost it looks pretty good to me.
You should have logged it as well to see what was going on but still those numbers seem about right.
Your next Dyno time when logging you can tune it by the spark plugs which is the ONLY way to correctly tune and get it right where it should be.
No no read the plugs after a pull. It can be done on the street but you have to have the space for a run and a place to install and remove a plug before and after a run. Dyno much easyer.
I went for a dynorun yesterday, but the results were way lower than expected. As I have some comparison material (other CLS55 drivers in my vicinity & own dragy measurements), I think they measured wrong. My own conclusion so far, is that they didn't account for a torque converter gearbox. What do you guys think?
Extra relevant info:
My CLS55 is supposedly to be stage 1 tuned
Stock crank pulley
Stock supercharger pulley
Stock airboxes
Stock throttle body
Upgraded intercooler
Bosch 010 pump, rewired to run on ignition
Center resonator delete
Stock exhaust (headers, cats, mufflers)
Here is a dyno chart from my completely stock E55 (back in 2006 when I had a brand new one) for reference.
Reading the electrode will tell you where the timing is and reading the porcelen will tell you where the AFR is. Look on line ''youtube'' and you can see it.
Look up ''Reading Spark Plugs Steve Morris''
I think someone misread the chart on this thread. It said max power to SHAFT was 458 but max power to WHEEL was 356hp. I agree that's way off. That's 20hp under stock. Either the car was heatsoaked, something is wrong with the car, or the dyno is wrong.
I think someone misread the chart on this thread. It said max power to SHAFT was 458 but max power to WHEEL was 356hp. I agree that's way off. That's 20hp under stock. Either the car was heatsoaked, something is wrong with the car, or the dyno is wrong.
Thank you, this is exactly what I want to point out.
Other people also pointed out that a test should've been done in lower gear.
Originally Posted by MJBelcher500
This is at the wheels.
Thanks for confirming! My results posted are supposedly at the crank...
I worked at Dynojet for over a decade, so I have some firsthand experience with dynos and dyno readings.
Dynos varied significantly from brand to brand. You really cannot compare numbers across brands. Even dynos of the same manufacture can vary depending on room design, temps, operator errors, etc. If you are going to use a dyno to evaluate changes, run the vehicle in stock form to establish a baseline. After that, use the same dyno to evaluate all future changes if you want data that can be compared. Otherwise, you are just guessing.
I worked at Dynojet for over a decade, so I have some firsthand experience with dynos and dyno readings.
Dynos varied significantly from brand to brand. You really cannot compare numbers across brands. Even dynos of the same manufacture can vary depending on room design, temps, operator errors, etc. If you are going to use a dyno to evaluate changes, run the vehicle in stock form to establish a baseline. After that, use the same dyno to evaluate all future changes if you want data that can be compared. Otherwise, you are just guessing.
Thanks for this. I already know this, but its valuable information nonetheless for other people who might not know this.
I expect my measurement to be somewhat in the same ballpark, but my session seems way off, thats why created this thread If they would say: that measurement is at the wheels, then I would be happy haha
Thank you, this is exactly what I want to point out.
Other people also pointed out that a test should've been done in lower gear.
Thanks for confirming! My results posted are supposedly at the crank...
Most dyno shops that claim "power at the crank" are using a fixed factor to "calculate" it. There are ways to measure "negative power" during a coast down to come up with an approximation of driveline loses, but it is not a dead on number. Small things like tire pressure or how the car is strapped down will impact numbers. Airflow over the front of the car (the type of fan system used by the dyno shop) also changes things significantly. At the end of the day, it only matters what makes it to the tires.
The numbers seem about right for our european dynos. 9s 100-200 on a CLS55 with a map also seems about right, i wouldn't worry too much about the power sheet. If you want to make sure, check your intake air temp under full load and fuel pressure under full load.
Mine has a 88mm pulley, headers, no pre cats, Kleemann cams, no bypass valve, 80mm CLK DTM trottle body and E63 exhaust and makes "only" 570hp crank and 750Nm
I log every hard pass I make. You have to know whats going on and its amazing how temperatures will make big swings in the results. Than again I live in a 25 degree to 95 degree area throughout the year.
I can make 1.5lb's more boost in cold weather than summer.
Did you dyno in 4th? Does the operator know what he's doing?
OP - I presume your pump is up to date-- no blower shutting off etc.? As reference, I dyno'd 435 at the wheels when it was bone stock, 474rwhp with just an 83mm upper and box tune only. Sure, all dynos vary, maybe 20 one day, 5 the next day, but not like that. Those are low numbers, something is up...
I log every hard pass I make. You have to know whats going on and its amazing how temperatures will make big swings in the results. Than again I live in a 25 degree to 95 degree area throughout the year.
I can make 1.5lb's more boost in cold weather than summer.
Did you dyno in 4th? Does the operator know what he's doing?
OP - I presume your pump is up to date-- no blower shutting off etc.? As reference, I dyno'd 435 at the wheels when it was bone stock, 474rwhp with just an 83mm upper and box tune only. Sure, all dynos vary, maybe 20 one day, 5 the next day, but not like that. Those are low numbers, something is up...
I only put the car in dyno mode and I just let them go to work. This was probably dyno'd in 5th gear? At this point I don't think they knew they could put it in manual mode.
10-15-2023, 06:40 AM
If they would say: that measurement is at the wheels, then I would be happy haha
