Crank Shaft position sensor continously burns out
06-13-2024, 03:29 PM
#26
Transmission has nothing to do with this. That would raise an entirely different basket of problems that usually result in limp mode. If key off then on and limp mode goes away, it is a mechanical/hydraulic issue with the transmission. If the limp mode does not go away after a key off/on, it is an electrical issue that can only be cleared by STAR/Xentry or equivalent. A bad conductor plate replaced with a good conductor plate will still leave the car in limp mode until the failure codes are cleared. Once cleared, the new conductor plate will function normally.
On both of my E55s (W210 analog gauge, W211 digital bar gauge), the coolant temperature will vary depending upon outside air temperature and engine load. Sometimes I look askance at the gauge but it always seems to have a hysteresis around the target temperature, so all is good.
On both of my E55s (W210 analog gauge, W211 digital bar gauge), the coolant temperature will vary depending upon outside air temperature and engine load. Sometimes I look askance at the gauge but it always seems to have a hysteresis around the target temperature, so all is good.
And regarding the temp, then mine should be okay as well. Although i still want to add the secondary heat exchanger for faster recovery.
07-09-2024, 12:33 PM
#27
UPDATE
-I Changed the fuel pump relay ( HELLA relay)
-I replaced the CPS with a import Direct brand sensor that i had, ( will get OEM ).
Temp has been pretty high in my city and i was driving and doing some small pulls here and there, 0-60 and everything is still okay. I will update again later as I drive it more.
-I Changed the fuel pump relay ( HELLA relay)
-I replaced the CPS with a import Direct brand sensor that i had, ( will get OEM ).
Temp has been pretty high in my city and i was driving and doing some small pulls here and there, 0-60 and everything is still okay. I will update again later as I drive it more.
08-02-2024, 02:07 PM
#28
***************UPDATE****************
Been driving the car to work and back. Ambient temp has been lower in the morning 78-85F and 85-100F in the evenings. Car has been driving fine, done a few small pulls here and there but no WOT. One important thing I noticed just yesterday.
Most of you have mentioned that my issue was the Fuel Pump Relay and went on explaining how it melts, especially since I do have 2 AEM aftermarket fuel pumps. Well just yesterday i was thinking" i wonder if this NEW Relay is getting hot? i know some may think " why didnt you check before?" I just didn't think about it, didn't click until yesterday. So I got home from a 20 min drive and sure enough, the fuel relay was really hot to the touch. So all of you that mentioned my fuel pump relay. Eventually im sure it will give out again.
But now im 99% certain you were all correct and it was the Fuel Pump Relay this whole time and not the CPS. Why did it work well after i changed the CPS, and i was able to drive as if nothing was wrong??? the only thing i can thing of is the Fuel Pump relay had enough time to cool down. But even then it was still odd situation.
I will most likely do the Fuel Pump Relay upgrade to the 70 AMP relay and that should fix my issue. I will still give an update later on. Thank you all for your help so far!!
Been driving the car to work and back. Ambient temp has been lower in the morning 78-85F and 85-100F in the evenings. Car has been driving fine, done a few small pulls here and there but no WOT. One important thing I noticed just yesterday.
Most of you have mentioned that my issue was the Fuel Pump Relay and went on explaining how it melts, especially since I do have 2 AEM aftermarket fuel pumps. Well just yesterday i was thinking" i wonder if this NEW Relay is getting hot? i know some may think " why didnt you check before?" I just didn't think about it, didn't click until yesterday. So I got home from a 20 min drive and sure enough, the fuel relay was really hot to the touch. So all of you that mentioned my fuel pump relay. Eventually im sure it will give out again.
But now im 99% certain you were all correct and it was the Fuel Pump Relay this whole time and not the CPS. Why did it work well after i changed the CPS, and i was able to drive as if nothing was wrong??? the only thing i can thing of is the Fuel Pump relay had enough time to cool down. But even then it was still odd situation.
I will most likely do the Fuel Pump Relay upgrade to the 70 AMP relay and that should fix my issue. I will still give an update later on. Thank you all for your help so far!!
Last edited by EliE55; 08-02-2024 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Spelling, typo
08-27-2024, 01:18 PM
#29
********** BAD NEWS*****************UPDATE*************
After using my E55 off and on for a few weeks. Car stalled again as it has before.
-Had replaced the old fuel relay with a new HELLA Fuel Pump Relay
It for sure has to do with something overheating, but I do not know why its overheating but has to do with resistance, just like almost any other electrical system that has resistance, it gets hot.
I drove the car to do a few things, including went to the drive through to get some food and drinks, twice. As soon as the car shut off on me i went to the back of the car and i immediately went to touch the fuel relay and it was really hot and even the connectors were hot to the touch, not warm, they were hot not melted though. I had a extra HELLA fuel relay and I swapped it ( to do some testing, to see if it would run normal again ) And even after i swapped the new relay with another new relay, the car still shut off on me again a few times as i was heading home. So now im thinking it’s the CPS again (this is my theory do to some testing i had done before which was putting a new CPS when the car would stall on me). I Pulled over a few times allowing the car to cool down and I got home and when i got home, i left the car on in the garage until it shut off on me, i went to check the fuel pump relay and it was just warm to the touch, it was not hot, so that also leads me to believe its something with the CPS???
So now I want to do one other upgrade. Add the 70 AMP relay to see how that goes. After that I Have to test it again and hope for the best. If the 70 AMP relay upgrade doesn’t prevent the car from shutting off, I will be out of options.
Any advice is appreciated, thank you all in advance for your help!
After using my E55 off and on for a few weeks. Car stalled again as it has before.
-Had replaced the old fuel relay with a new HELLA Fuel Pump Relay
It for sure has to do with something overheating, but I do not know why its overheating but has to do with resistance, just like almost any other electrical system that has resistance, it gets hot.
I drove the car to do a few things, including went to the drive through to get some food and drinks, twice. As soon as the car shut off on me i went to the back of the car and i immediately went to touch the fuel relay and it was really hot and even the connectors were hot to the touch, not warm, they were hot not melted though. I had a extra HELLA fuel relay and I swapped it ( to do some testing, to see if it would run normal again ) And even after i swapped the new relay with another new relay, the car still shut off on me again a few times as i was heading home. So now im thinking it’s the CPS again (this is my theory do to some testing i had done before which was putting a new CPS when the car would stall on me). I Pulled over a few times allowing the car to cool down and I got home and when i got home, i left the car on in the garage until it shut off on me, i went to check the fuel pump relay and it was just warm to the touch, it was not hot, so that also leads me to believe its something with the CPS???
So now I want to do one other upgrade. Add the 70 AMP relay to see how that goes. After that I Have to test it again and hope for the best. If the 70 AMP relay upgrade doesn’t prevent the car from shutting off, I will be out of options.
Any advice is appreciated, thank you all in advance for your help!
08-27-2024, 03:56 PM
#30
Super Member
Have you inspected the fuel pump relay? The OEM 40-amp relay is notorious for overheating and shutting the car down. After it cools, it may (or may not) function again.
Perform an advanced search on "E55 fuel pump relay and fuse maintenance" for more than you ever want to know about this issue. Since you have a 2003, this could very well be it. If it is, pull the fuel pump relay and the socket and replace with a 70-amp relay.
Perform an advanced search on "E55 fuel pump relay and fuse maintenance" for more than you ever want to know about this issue. Since you have a 2003, this could very well be it. If it is, pull the fuel pump relay and the socket and replace with a 70-amp relay.
08-27-2024, 06:04 PM
#31
Correct. Its the ideal year of the E55, with pretty much 0 issues, They Have 2 Relays I believe. But in earlier comments i was recommended to upgrade the relay with a 70 AMP relay. Especially since i have 2 AEM 320 aftermarket fuel pumps.
08-27-2024, 08:14 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,374
Received 1,013 Likes
on
786 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Aftermarket fuel pumps. An important piece of information. Replace both relays with 70-amp relays and reevaluate.
Next failure point will be the top-hat.
Next failure point will be the top-hat.
08-28-2024, 08:02 PM
#33
I'm pretty sure i mentioned it above in the messages somewhere but always worth re-mentioning. Also the top hat is already modified, i bypassed the top hat with the VRP wiring kit that they have. I will post pics.
