My IAT’s seem to be a bit high on WOT pulls. I have replaced the Bosch 010 pump. There is no issue on recovery times, it goes back down to cruising temperature within seconds. But my problem seems to be how high the temperatures are rising. Mods only include an 83mm pulley, Vtech ecu tune, and no catalytic converters. I’ve had other cars with the same pulley setup that don’t reach these IAT’s, the stock cooling should be sufficient for this mild setup. It’s driving me crazy and nobody seems to know whats going on. Car just wants to run hotter from factory? Are there possible air leaks by the supercharger and surge tanks I should be aware of?


Run 1

90f ambient

109f cruising

145f wot (0-100 mph)



Run 2 (few minutes later)

90f ambient

118f cruising

160f wot (20-100 mph)



Run 3 (few hours later)

75f ambient

100f cruising

140f wot (0-100mph)

 

Looks normal to me and considering it's 90* outside and a long pull.....yea normal.

 

Also, if you have an aftermarket IAT sensor, that might also give different measurements than OE IAT sensor

 

20-30f above ambient seems to be my temps as well. Changing AIT from amg to mb (fcp euro mb part) didn't have any effect. Still same.
Measured with Torque app on android and bluetooth adapter.

as far as WOT not really sure. I mean you floor it and it goes up and back down. Have not paid attention to how high.

 

Data log fellas.....data log !! It's your friend for sure.

 

My reg saved reply on cooling


Rinse and Repeat



Everyone beats this cooling crap to death like the wheel can be reinvented. ESP with a Weistec or any larger SC



The KC is best for recovery and short burst.



Meth is best to control WOT and longer IAT.



Simply the best system is removing the HE. Then install the KC, have it feed a trunk tank, and then have meth.



This setup will keep IATs under ambient. It’s like driving in winter weather year round. 80* out and IATs start at 60* or lower. Reg with larger HE you see 10-15* over ambient so that’s 90-100* IATs. The cars pull timing at 120* which means less power. So imagine it’s a 90* day without KC your IAT will be at 110*. As soon as you hit the throttle yeah you speed up but lost power. For every 1* it’s 1hp “gain”. So a KC helping you start 40* lower is like “gaining” 40hp.



The KC is great for strip and street. However......



If you are on the interstate you will already be cruising and likely go WOT for longer than a 1/4mi. This is where meth comes in handy. If it’s 80* out cruising IATs for me on my 195 crank is about 80*. Then someone test my gangster on a Mexican highway then I can go WOT and let the meth take care of the top end. My IATs never cross 100* even in 100* temps here in Alabama.



All these crazy “new” ways like single pass IC or top mount just makes the engine bay ugly. If you wanna race looking car go ahead but I will pass as it’s a luxury missile.



I was the one who really got people turned onto the KC back in 2012 once I learned about them. Again living in Alabama and summer heat meant loss of power for my car. Well I want power year round. I contacted Joe and we got my car setup. It was well documented on an old site but after I documented it many jumped on the wagon. Mine is behind the Distonic puck on my E and blends in like stock.

So many got a KC that Joe ended up giving me some money back.



I then realized I needed more top end and added meth and the trunk tank. Again I want a luxury missile so I used my windshield washer revisor to keep it hidden. The plus of this is the dash will let you know when low. Concerned will run out while driving? Keep a 1/2 gallon in the trunk and then stay of WOT under home.



You can choose to tune for it or not. Mine is tuned for it as it’s not a daily for me and I want the most power. I just use the Snow Performance 50/50 Boost Juice.