I finally had enough and purchased Michelins Pilot Sport 2s for my 2003 E55. I couldn't take the grating road noise of the OE Continentals which many have experienced. When the noise problem originally started I had the alignment checked by the dealer and they found no problem. They blamed low air pressure as a contributing/primary factor to the deterioration of the Contis. Although I didn't agree with their assesment at the time I didn't push the issue (I check pressures quite often).

Fast forward, 4 months and maybe 1,500 miles later (car now has 13K miles) I have the dealer mount my new Pilots and check the alignment. The invoice says the 'camber out of specs / install left front camber bolt'. Is this part of the normal procedure? The car has never been hit and nothing has changed since they last had the car. Anyone know if there was a systemic alignment problem when these vehicles left the factory which might have contributed to what sounds like a common problem the Contis develop?

Any thoughts on the above are appreciated.

BTW, in addition to the brake control recall (I recieved letter about this in the mail), the dealer also performed a 'modification of water drains in frt wheel housings'. What problem was this modification intended to repair? Thanks.

-Stephen

 

SdSmithMB: I just replaced my OEM contis at 13K mile yesterday with PS2's. Wow! what a difference! As for the alignment problem, I had taken the beast in to the dealer at about 3K miles due to the pulling to the right problem. They adjusted some alignment settings and it for the most part (about 90%) dissapearred. I installed these PS2's for the same reason, I just couldn't stand the road noise form the Conti's. I knew it was time wen a passenger remarked on the loud road noise. My Ps2's out the door from the Tire Rack was about $1140 including the road hazard guarantees & shipping. Man! Ive been really impressed with these PS2's! I had Pilot Sports on my M3 and I really liked them too!

 

I don't know about W211 but I'm told that alignment on a W210 is a major job, that special replacement bolts have to be installed just to do the 4-wheel alignment and it costs $500 plus in labor.

I questioned mine due to cupping wear on the (old) PS fronts but found out later this is normal. Unless it changed with W211, 4-wheel alignment is (or was) a big deal.


TJC

 

I normally use the ride control in comfort mode. "no red led's illuminated"

I took the car to the MB dealer who told me all was right on the alignment.

I then went to an aftermarket shop that specialized in MB's. They told me there was a difference in how cars were
aligned for Germany vs. the US. Essentially the toe in was set for Germany for high speed loading to stress the front
end and reduce toe-in while driving. However in the US we can't attain those speeds (over 100 mph) legally. This results in normal
driving with too much toe-in. I also found that MB uses a preloader to simulate high speed loads to align the wheels. This is the procedure used in Germany. So when the dealer states that it is aligned,, it really is but to German highway speeds. Therefore we put the car on the alignment machine and confirmed that there was too much toe in for US driving. In order to correct the alignment I had
to buy from Mercedes special suspension pins. (wonder why them make the special pins but don't tell anyone). The pins allowed the alignment with reduced toe-in. Since that time my tires are wearing normally. So the real issue is the speed you drive and the set up of the alignment. The local dealer wasn't very helpful in sorting this out, fortunately I found a MB specialty shop.

Changing to "sport ride" will affect the cupping. This will stiffen the ride which will prevent negative camber when hitting a bump. My guess is you still need to find a shop that will do the alignment. Caution though most will want to put too much toe-in, and or tell you they can't align without the special tool. The special tool is to preload to German highway specs. So don't use the tool. But if the shop is reluctant DON"T use them. Find someone who will work with you. My cost for wheel alignment after buying the 2 pins was over $350. So they do charge for their service and you will have to get technical about it. Hope this helps. Jim

 

Thanks Jim. I messing around with alignment right now to get rid of wondering.

 

Once I took delivery of my W211, I felt like the car was pulling to the right. Dealership installed the camber bolts and checked the alignment under warranty. They said it was covered anytime during the first year/12K I believe. I was thrilled. I almost had a heartattck the first time I had my W210 aligned...ouch.

 

I noticed alot of 211's pull to the right when brand new and alignment 'in spec'. We would install caster bolt and sometimes camber to correct this. Mb said no more...wait till customer purchases vehicle and if they complain then we would do it under warrenty...

 

I realize this is an old thread..............
I just had my second go-round with cupping the tires on the front end. The Cont's did it at 8K and the PS 2's at 15K. Neither set was worn out across the tread, just cupped on the inner edge.
Dealer said "its within spec", which may be true, but then the "spec" is wrong.
The tech told me that most 211's pull to the right because the German alignment specs are for German roads which are crowned differently than ours. I asked him to adjust for both the pulling and the inner edge wear. He "couldn't" as that would not meet the specs.
Took it to an independent who realigned it when I had the second set of PS2's installed in Sept. It has almost no right pull now. He had me get the front camber bolts so that after he sees how this latest alignment is wearing, he can make the final tweaks. I tried to get REAR bolts, but Dealer said "No such thing".
Will update you soon

 

Oh I hate this! Going to the dealer tomorrow for my second (well 5th actually) alignment. I just purchased the wonderful PS2s and now my steering wheel is off a tad with the star pointing to the right. Not quite sure how this happened but it did and it must be fixed. The car is driving fairly straight which is why I dread this so much. I can already anticipate what is about to come. The same as my first alignment when the car was new and the star tipped toward the left. Once in the shop to straighten it out it started pulling to the right and I had to keep taking it back (4 times total) before they got it right and I about blew a fuse. Normally a pretty calm guy but come on now! Anyway I pray that I don't go through all this again tomorrow? Wish me luck gang! BTW the PS2s are fantastic!!! Conti Shmonti! Yuk!

 

I have never seen a b red 211 55, bet it looks sweet.... post a pic for us!

 

516MBtech
I will post pics of the Bordeaux E55, the new SL and the Caddy soon.
As of now, pic posting is disabled.
When I ordered the car, the dealer said if it came in and I didn't like it, I did not have to take it. That is , UNTIL they discovered the color I wanted! They ONLY stocked white, black, and silver. So if I ordered the Bordeaux it was mine; I HAD to take it.
These are the same stupid *******s that tried to blame the tires for the cupping problem. I had to call the factory Rep so he could jack up the service advisors.
Finally went to another Dealer who checked the alignment (duh!) and found the toe-in was off.

 

so they were saying it was the tires at fault for the cupping issue and not the actual alignment?

 

mbtek
yes, the dealer in Augusta, Ga tried to tell me that the OE Conti's would just wear that way. They just kept denying any responsibility and would not do anything. Luckily, the salesman got me the Factory Service rep's phone number.
By that time I was so pissed, I just started going to the dealer in Greenville, SC. That dealer checked the alignment and admitted the toe was off. they reset the toe to "spec" and the PS2's wore longer before they cupped, but they DID cup.
So, now I'm trying an independent. Wish me luck......which I did not have, as someone backed into the car the other night at the motel in Va. and busted the rear bumper cover.
Stuff happens!

 

yea the dealers and the factory I think use that toe presser bar when adjusting the toe....which gives it too much toe in..which I think attributes greatly to the cupping problems. But they do this for slightly better handling/cornering feel ..and assume when hauling *** the tires will spread outward into the desired position..problem is folks drive these cars everyday, stop and go and they wear tires with a "performance style" alignment. Does your car pull at all? If not than all the indy really probably needs to do is set the toe

 

hey do you have the part number to those camber bolts, what do they look like, do they have a groov in the middle running down the bolt, i think the guy sold me the wrong part at the store

 

yea, they look similar to the factory bolt but have a slot down the length of the bolt... Thry are tricky to install and really after installation they should be torqued down with loaded i.e. vehicle on the ground (or drive-on type lift) vehicle will need aligned immediatly after installation. I have a couple spares at work I can get you the # mon evening

 

Sry forgot to get the #'s...oops

 

Guys
I have part number: A 000 330 00 18

 

Timely post, scE55AMG!

I just got a call from Wheel Works. I seem to go through PS2's like a sailor goes through Gin. Rears lasted 3-4k miles last go-round. Fronts are showing CRAZY wear on the inside edge after ~6k miles. They insisted on replacing the front tires and are not telling me they need to replace the camber bolts to align it properly.

Cost? $100 for the 'normal' alignment, + $100 for the bolts + $240 to install the bolts. ARGH!

I'll make sure they are using the right part #. Beyond that, it looks like they need to do the install, then drop the car to the ground, THEN torque the bolts to spec, and then finally lift it back up and re-align it? Is that the correct sequence?

Not that they'll do as I instruct of course. "Yeah, sure Mr. Customer, we'll be right on that..." But I can try

Anyone else finding that they go through tires this quickly? I know that the PS2 is a soft tire, and the E puts down lots of torque, but still. Shouldn't I get more than 5k miles out of these babys?

Skeeter

Thanks again,

Skeeter

 

Sounds like you need to change your right shoe!

 

LOL

Yes, that is definitely a big part of the issue. Still, 4K miles for rear tires? I mean, heavy right foot or not, I drive it with the ESP on almost all the time, and never smoke the rear tires...

Skeeter

 

I was quoted $20 for caster bolt and $45 to install to correct a right pull- along with $60 for 4 wheel alignment-
going there RIGHT now to see if they can correct the right pull- have brand new Michelin PS on the car....
15,000 miles on a 05 ClK-
First set wore the outside fronts out due to toe in set at .40!
Waaaaay too much- s/b .06 to .10 - that is all you need-