Another 80mph vibration….




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What did I change ?
1) Added flexdisc washer spacers
2) Lowered prop centre bearing 3-4mm to reduce angle of attack into diff.
3) Raised front of diff (with the notched washer) another 2-3mm.
4) Tried to test and even out the angle alignment (as stated in WIS) but access to the prop was tough with exhaust still on car. Rear shaft is within 1deg of front section.
Doing all this the flexdisc looked dead straight and not waved anymore. I would say the main effect was the diff notched washers and lowering centre bearing. I honestly don't know what the flex disc spacers achieve (by the way you need to use longer OE bolts with the washers). But not touching the car for a while!
Last edited by stevebez; Jun 14, 2025 at 05:58 PM.




Ill check on tyres - mbe go for some PS5’s and see how we look then. For now I am done playing with the prop unless tyres and wheel balance dont make it a bit smoother.




The WIS prop alignment is quite the process.
You can (or should)
- shim the trans mount (or trans mount carrier)
- shim the centre bearing
- use the notch washers to shim the rear diff carrier.
Each angle trans to front prop, front prop to rear prop and rear prop to diff are all measured and have quite narrow tolerances - and they also say to target the centre of the range where possible.
I just fiddled with the Centre bearing and diff carrier to take out flex disc wave by eyeballing - this may have caused a flex in the front flex disc but I could not see with exhaust and all the bits in the way. One step at a time. You can actually see the flex ease as you move the diff carrier up. You dont have to move it much at all to do that.
Went for a quick run short while ago and car is 90% right. I actually think the rest may be tyres out of balance. The exhaust also generates quite a bit of vibration so sometimes its tough to tell - but when I drop it into neutral from highway speeds and let car coast through the vibration zone it feels perfectly fine. Just feels like tyre vibrations. Maybe tweaking prop a bit more might help but think I am really at the point of diminishing returns there now.
Last edited by stevebez; Jun 15, 2025 at 05:53 PM.








I am beginning to think the issue is with the Quaife LSD / or diff I replaced.
Had a really interesting vibration today when in a 30-40 deg bend turning left onto highway and adding a decent dose of throttle there was a major vibration. So made me think the LSD is binding up on throttle while not straight in. [Quaife is a 0-100% diff - dont ask me how they manage that].
Other than that in normal driving the vibration is there 75-85mph area.
So either an issue on the diff [was off crash damaged SL55], or not installed correctly [Quaife UK fitted LSD to diff] - have not checked backlash or if its running correctly. I have my old 2.65 diff still and might swap it in to check but will mean a TCU remap.
Any thoughts in how to check if diff is ok and why vibrations will be WAY worse when acclerating and turning left. Not experienced anything when turning right…🤷♂️




In dyno mode, no load / rear wheels off car and cycling through the gears we have as follows:-
1st and second gear - fine
3rd gear - as soon as its engaged I get a mild whine and the onset of some vibration.
4th and 5th similar and getting worse as speed increases.
So going to try a trans flush / and maybe check
out mechatronic (while I’m in there) to check on seals solenoids etc. TBH I have noticed gear changes quite lazy of late …. Bear in mind car only done 35k miles!
Not really expecting this to work but it’s worthwhile to try before I may need to pull the tranny.




What did I change?
New rear PS4s’
New rear brake discs and pads
Tranny mechatronic refresh and with Sonnax overlap regulating valves (kit of 3)
Now what fixed it?
I think 90% was tranny. Besides from the shifts that are now butter smooth the running at 70-90 mph is now fine. Tyres added some for sure and I think the old (in spec) but quite corroded brake discs did as well.
Cannot recommend the Sonnax kit for the mech. enough - day and night - and car only has 35k miles. Fluid looked Ok tbh but the solenoid seals were a bit flat although still flexible.
Now to balance the front tyres - get tracking checked and its golden!!!








Done 35600 miles
Done so far:
- rear tyres
- prop centre carrier
- rear subframe rebuild (mostly for corrosion - but while you in there etc)
- had a O2 sensor go bad that sorted out the rough running
- added Sonnax gearbox valve body upgrades
- fresh oil in gearbox
Whats left?
1) Front tyres / rims checked. Car had sat for over a year (although was on tyre savers and over inflated during this time).
2) Thinking of going back to stock on my diff (have Quaife and 2.82 gearing off an SL55.)
also pull tranny tune and go back to stock. Getting slightest of whine on diff. Want to eliminate this as the issue.
3) Replace 180 pulley with oem and instead fit a smaller SC pulley. (perhaps harmonic balancer is at fault here).
4) wheel bearings
5) front suspension bushings etc.
6) Injectors cleaned
7) Fuel filter (never been replaced).
(6&7 - to smooth out engine running - its not bad but you know…)
8) Engine and tranny mounts - dunno on this they still look fine.
9) half shafts (reaching now)
10) clogged exhaust - the exhaust is quite resonant with only shorty headers on … (engine power is good so unlikely).
There is definitely a harmonic issue that comes on at 75mph … right in my highway cruise range. Just infuriating. This car used to be like butter.
Any other thoughts?
Last edited by stevebez; Oct 6, 2025 at 02:45 AM.




So new steering track rods (mine mostly corroded but no obvious sign of play).
Tracking done and car feels transformed. No vibration onset at 70-80 mph and car dead steady all the way to 100mph (on private test track). Just very linear and stable. So it definitely feels like its done - but been here before and it all came back. So will drive around for a bit and see how we go. Dunno if its the links or tracking (or combo) - but if you chasing a vibration - try this.




Just sorting injectors now as have a bit of exhaust chop on low rpm off throttle on occasion - think one injector is bleeding / not closing on off throttle. Sounds quite nice but worried about cylinder wash.




What did I do? Changed out the battery and cleaned as many ground terminals as I could find. Cleaned ecu connectors, add some conductive grease and - well there we go. Car idles smooth, no exhaust chop on over run, and weirdly the vibration at speed is gone?!
Like what the hell? I am not complaining but who would have thought its a dry connection / battery?



Last edited by smiles201; Feb 15, 2026 at 04:32 AM.



