I borrowed a friend's Foxwell and cleared a bunch of stored codes but these came back.

P20A2
idle speed control implausible. Check system for unmetered air.

7211
DTR: the CAN communication of the engine control module if faulty.

And I'm including a picture of my fuel trims.
Does it seem normal for a tuned car?

 

Your trims are not the top concern.
Don't worry about the lean trims causing spongy response until after the live faults have been fixed.

No1 - Something is tanking your ECU CAN-Bus. See other shared bus partners, not only ECU itself. Get a full chassis scan with all modules.

No2 - You have bad air metering, that means ECU has poor fuel injection control. A lot of times MAF air inlet is not sitting right...

All this cause poor trims control.
Overall good shape with only a couple reported issues.

 

A tune on the car does not normally effect anything like your having.
Find out where your air leak is for the 202a code.
We do not have Mass Air Flow sensors on the M113K engine,just a MAP sensor.
Make sure your voltage is correct to the PCM/Battery.

 

I see people using carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or propane to find a leak.
Is it safe? What's the best way to try to find a leak?

 

I can confirm flammables around a hot engine do catch on fire (been there!) - Keep an extinguisher handy and shop rags.

Propane needs a hose to inject into... you can't swamp the whole area with propane: it's explosive!

Spray carb cleaner to test individual component, not showering the whole engine.
Spray the base of injector near seals

 

Oh man, that doesn't sound good.
I see a couple of videos where they used a hand pump and a cigar to pump smoke in. Where should I connect the hose to on the engine if I go that route?

 

Smoke-test engine off:

• inject smoke in the PCV line
• or in the brake booster line
• seal the throttle plate with a rag or shipping tape.
• check EVAP solenoid leak through ?

Explosive propane gas calls for caution. Carb cleaner a lot safer

 

Okay, I think I can follow those instructions.
But don't understand "check EVAP solenoid leak through ?"
Sorry, I'm no mechanic, I do learn from videos and can follow step by step instructions and getting more and more comfortable with wrenching if I have direction.

Thanks

 

EVAP circuit can be the perfect provider of IDLE AIR LEAK.

It's connected to the intake through a busy pulsed solenoid that begins to leak internally when it fails.

Check if your EVAP Solenoid is still sealed (good) or already leaking (bad).
Replace only if testest as being bad.

 

Here is the location of the Evap Solenoid:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7191911

 

@bbirdwell is sharing that the rubber elbows in/out of the EVAP Solenoid can fall apart to leak intake air vacuum.


advanced rubber formulation

So not only the failed solenoid, add the elbow fitting as leak source. Inspect /replace.

 

Thank you, very helpful for someone like me who doesn't know one component from another!

 

Thank you again!

 

Everyone gets his short-stick day...
your turn, my turn, his turn
We're all on the same boat!

Glad to land you a hand to resolve this