joshb63

Alright, so I have been doing everything perfectly for break-in. Keeping it under about 5000 and 90 mph and giving it a good amount of throttle here and there, easy on the brakes and tranny too (no Kickdown)

My question is why my ****ing brakes are squeaking, it's really irritating for a brand new 100k car. I feel as though this is a common issue. I know how to bed the brakes, but I think I have heard that bedding is not a permanent fix. Any input would be greatly appreciated, I would like to fix this ASAP.

Thanks in advance, Josh.

russellm

take it back to the dealer and have them fix them.

baldmike73

on the E55 i know all the brakes have a bit of squeak - even the tech who works on my car told me that is standard - its almost like floating rotors on my HD - a bit noisier - but i would take the dealer and ask them to take a look to be sure

joshb63

Alright, thanks to both of you. I think it is also a winter thing and they squeak because of moisture.

NL007

Do a quick search - common issue and some options to help are available. Mine is in wed to change the front pads. Rear ones didnt help. Oddly enough, my squeaking went away after changing the summer rims and tires and driving it in wet snowy weather for the first time last week. No squeak ever since???

Vic55

No squeaks on my 2010 E63 or new 2012 CLS63... but I always break my brakes in. I like to set them but running up to speed and using heavier force to slow down over a period of time.

Another thing I do not do is coast brake to stop lights as this creates a coating on the rotors which causes the squeaks. When I brake I use those powerful brakes for what they were made for- quick stops. I dont wait until the very last second but I do brake with more force than most. Dont coast; it brings out the squeaks.

E-Ridium 63

Hey Vic - been a while. Hope you're doing well. Any way to get rid of that coating you mentioned? I think that's what I've done to mine. When I break hard, no squeaks. When I break softly, the squeaks come out about 1-1.5 seconds before the car comes to a rest.

Vic55

I think (dont quote) that you can do it by running the car up to higher speeds and then braking heavily down to very low speeds- then running it back up and then coming down again. Lather rinse repeat.

The heavy braking should clear off the coating.

pgordon888

Thanks for the advice. Found this thread after posting the same question over on the cls forum. Will try tomorrow.

otakki

Somebody must be having fun with the 6-piston front. How many miles is on your car? From what I remember, your ride is still relatively new.

BTW, is the OEM front pads ceramic?

joshb63

Thanks guys, I'm bringing it in and if they can't do anything I will try the bedding/resurfacing method. If that doesn't work, I guess I'm getting a free set of brakes.

Josh

Vitty

What is the proper break in method for these cars? Or could someone point me in the right direction. This was as close as I got via search. Just picked up a black 2012 and that info was missing from the documents I received.
Thanks!

otakki

I assume you are referring to the engine rev part of the breaking in. There is either the break in procedure from the manual or the hard breaking in procedure by Vic. To summarize, the one by Vic is to have the engine rev up and down the entire range but not to have the high rev for a prolonged period of time during the break in period.

jcalvinm

Wondering how often you guys are having to replace your rotors? Are you having to replace them every time you replace pads? I know this will vary on the way the car is driven but I'm asking because the dealer is saying I need new pads and rotors and the car only has 28k miles (2010 e63). They are saying that there's a lip on the rotors but I'm just wondering if i'm getting taken?