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NOTE: Progress pics are found throughout thread, not in original post
Hey Everyone!
Wanted to introduce myself over here, proud new owner of a 2010 E63 previously owned by a forum member. She's a beaut, 40k miles, p2 package with a lot of great options including pano. In the past I've owned a CLK500 which I modified quite a bit (now owned by my brother), as well as most recently owned a CLS 55 which was highly modified by previous owner. Both cars are searchable on this forum.
Alright... here she is! The only current modification are:
FF. W212 E63 M156 non-pano 18" P2 ParkT NightV (gone but will be missed).
Welcome to the W212 side. Lovely iridium silver--just like mine. Are you planning to swap out the headbolts and change out those parts of the engine head with known problems?
Welcome to the W212 side. Lovely iridium silver--just like mine. Are you planning to swap out the headbolts and change out those parts of the engine head with known problems?
I've read extensively on this issue ever since it started popping up 5+ years ago. I had always wanted the NA 6.2 engine, and the ones within my realistic budget were most likely in the head bolt affected range.
To mitigate the heatbolt risk this particular e63 I was looking for was lower mileage (40k), not tuned, and driven by adults as daily not hot rodding.
Having said that, I will be most likely replacing them within the year, or sooner if I find a good deal on them. I would not want to ruin this amazing vehicle due to negligence on an issue that is all too common, but I feel I have a little bit of time before addressing.
Indeed, I had them ordered before car had arrived.
When I originally got the car I was planning to black out the grill, chrome, badges. Since then I've realized that I really like the chrome (at least for now). The only question next is whether or not to black out the rear badges or not, but that's probably all I will black out. Debating on a rear spoiler also...
Hey Puff, did you have to remove your rear bumper? I have the same diffuser that came in the mail today and plan on doing the install on Monday when I put the springs and links in.
"basically, get some race ramps put the car on that.
the OE black lower trim and diffuser needs to be removed, there are 2 rivets on each side u need to drill out.
after you do, that, there is i think just the tabs that hold the OE piece in place.....its basically a lot of pulling, carefully.
if u look under there is 2 plastic arms, i initially removed those because i thought i had to, but probably didnt...
the advantage of taking them off , it it lets the diff sit further towards teh car, with less tension...not sure how to explain that.
when you install, get some help, secure the side screws first, have someone put the diff asfar forward as u can and ssecure the side screw holes,
i bouught a small screw and nut to hold it secure, for each side
then start to push in the tabs along the bumper
dont try to match up the inner tabs, they dont match, a few do, but not all,
as long as u have the sides secured proper, the rest of the tabs will hold it in place, , its very rigid and secure
hope that helps, let me know"
Last edited by Pufftrees; Dec 20, 2015 at 05:43 PM.
Hey do you know what offset the wheels are? Thanks.
I am not 100 percent sure but here is my research from 2 previous owners ago posts.
"The car is sold with the wheels, but here is what I recall.
Offset looks like they are: 32 (f) and 42 (r).
20x9 (f) and 20x10.5 (r).
Tire size 295/25/20 (r) and 245/30/20 (f)
Fronts could have easily accommodated 255 or even 265
Thanks"
Adding on just a bit, I was told the fronts were under rated for the car and not meant to hold that much weight. So I've been inflating them close to 50 psi to make up for this.
^^ nothing really gained going above 41PSI on an XL (extra load) tire. You could increase the width as this usually increases the load on a given model tire. What is the load index of your tires in the front.
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