Vrodman

After a couple of months of adjustments, I believe I finally found the optimal low pass setting for the amplifier. I started way too high (around 300Hz) and I was getting annoying "tubbiness" and boomy sound with a lot of music.

I ended up setting the low pass filter on the amp at 90Hz. This seems to give the low end punch that was always missing while almost never sounding tubby. Also, a lot less adjusting to the bass knob from one song to the next.

If you set your car up similar to how did mine, you will want to get an amp that offers a variable low pass on it. The wires we tapped into for the signal do not seem to be low pass filtered at all.

faz492

I stay away from aftermarket subwoofers and speakers etc in any of my benz's after what i did to my w211 and w212 e 350's lol.

Theres brands which make better replacement subwoofers for the w212 free to air subwoofers if you want a tad more bass... But as far as subwoofer boxes and in the trunk im not a big fan.

Vrodman

I hear you. I struggled with the box in the trunk thing a bit initially too. But then I decided if I make it super easy to remove at any time, I can sort have the best of all worlds. I pull out 2 banana plugs, lift the front of the box up 1 inch, slide it out, and put in the garage if I need to. I have run open baffle subs on other cars in the past. It's just a lot of work building them in and then you really can't remove them. Plus they are not quite as "tight" in terms of SQ as installed in an enclosure.

But everyone has there own preferences. This ended up being mine.

Cheers

HeelHook

Getting cancellation from sealed enclosure rear firing into trunk of my 2018 E63s. JL 1000w RMS mono amp, 12W6, level converter tapped into fact sub signal. Im about to dig back into it, improve converter, check for noise cancellation mic, put RTA meter on it, maybe knock a hole in armrest passthrough, maybe port out the side with passthrough open, IDK.. Any thoughts? I plan to get into again this week. It cuts out randomly, seems more like signal inconsistency to me but at times it seems good, but mostly rolling in and out across sub frequency.

Vrodman

One of the most common cancellation causes is reversed polarity either at the input or the output of the amp. But with a high powered amp (that is noticeably stronger than the joke of a sub the car comes with) it probably shouldn't be that noticeable. You might try reversing the polarity of your sub and try it out. It won't damage anything to do so.

As far as acoustic cancellations, I really don't see that to a large extent. I did try forward vs rear facing and they both sounded about the same. However, the forward facing really did cause the rear deck to start rattling fiercely! So it was a no-brainer to turn it back around.

Good Luck

dn325ci

I would totally be down for this easy project, except I don't want to tear the interior apart to run a 4 gauge line to front battery. Is there an easier way?

Vrodman

You don't need to be tearing the interior apart at all. If you take it to a legit stereo installer, they know how to run that wire under the door sills and such and then under the back seat. It's not that hard.

Good Luck!

dn325ci

Thanks vrodman. Not sure I can leave my E63 with a stereo installer. I have trust issues.

Vrodman

Ed99

Vrodman

Hi Ed,

Please see the thread up higher. Full details are there from a post I did about 18 months ago. Yes, you tap into the low voltage lines going to the stock sub. Schematic, wire colors, and everything you need is up higher.

Cheers

prestonhendu

So do you just keep the gain down so you don't drown out your highs? What are your thoughts/insight on upgrading mids and highs inside also? Is the stock sub still running in your setup? I'm just a little hood so I want to crank up a little more all around and not have distortion in my mids like now. Nice clean setup btw.

prestonhendu

So do you just keep the gain down so you don't drown out your highs? What are your thoughts/insight on upgrading mids and highs inside also? Is the stock sub still running in your setup? I'm just a little hood so I want to crank up a little more all around and not have distortion in my mids like now. Nice clean setup btw.

prestonhendu

Whats your negative on aftermarkets? What's your setup now? Are you running a free air and if so, how does it sound compared to the fart, I mean stock. lol

Vrodman

Reviving this thread per request.

RNBRAD

Everything still going good with your system? I ended up changing out my brand of sub to a Kicker CompR then to a CompQ.

Vrodman

Hey bud!

Yeah, I transplanted my system about 2-/12 years back to my new 2015 E63s. Rock solid until about a year ago when the ID sub started rattling. Bought another and it’s fine since.

BTW, your great schematics are different for the newer w212’s with the useless duel flat oem woofers. The signal line is different in the harness that we tapped into. Unfortunately I forgot the details. Ugh. My installer figured it out. Plus that rear battery in the 2015 connection point for power is SOOOO much easier than the 2011 connection to under the hood.

Cheers

1MavRick

i've decided to remove the spare and build an enclosure for one 12" or two 10" subs. unfortunately, i cant find any examples of what that looks like other than drawings from my installer. the really low frequencies are comically bad with the stock system...

BenzScottish

Hi, I want to do the same as you have done with your W212 with my wagon of the same age, but since the wagon has no rear shelf the stock amplifier is located elsewhere, but I can’t find it.

does anyone know where the stock sub amplifier is located in the S212 wagon? I’ve taken the whole trunk apart and don’t see it anywhere.

Many thanks in advance