Hey guys so fairly new here. I posted a week or so ago for a E550, but recently found a 2010 E63. So I'm considering just going with that. My question is what should I be checking for when I go look at the car. Is there any problems I should be aware of? I know the air suspension is one of the big problems I should look at. I will also be sending the car to Mercedes for a pre purchase inspection which a lot of people are recommending. The dealer is asking 37.9 with 47kmiles. I will also need a warranty if anyone has any good recommendations that would be great. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

camshaft/valve bucket issues m156 motor had.

 

Hold out for a 2012 or later E63. If you do get the 63, make sure it has an MB warranty. The headbolt issue is well documented and it can grenade your engine. It also has camshaft wear issues.

 

at $38K you are getting very close to 2012 e63 5.5TT price range... I would pass on the 2010 6.3L e63 at 38K

 

It's an awesome engine but do tread with caution as mentioned above.

 

I found another one with MBCPO unlimited miles for 1 year of purchase date. But to extend it for 2 years it's an extra 5.3k.

 

E550 still a very nice and quick car depending on what your looking for, 2014 has 4matic and sport appearance and auto transmission with less strain on the wallet and time come service/maint time. A tune can also be had to wake them up. The turbos can't be upgraded easily though so what is your overall goals and wants.

 

Be careful buying a 2010 E63 for reasons mentioned above, the problems where solved in the 2011 model year.

 

No issues with my 6.3 at 74K but for that price range, hold out and get the 5.5Tt with new tech, better trans and a better car all around.
The 6.3s have issues and every time I beat on my car I would turn the radio and listen for ticking.. Not a good way to enjoy the car but like I said never had issues.

 

Be aware that some early 2011 cars are also plagued by the headbolts issue.

 

TBH man, even 2013 model M156 cars (C63) are having cam/lifter wear. At least that's the case here in Europe.

I think the best thing is to buy a 2010+ model with stock revised headbolts and then just change out the lifters for the SLS units when you buy the car, assuming the cams are in good shape.

 

By 2011 cars, I mean MY2011 for the US market. When a certain MY starts and ends in the US is confusing. Rest of the world is more straightforward: Jan 1st to Dec 31st for a certain MY.

 

Yes the cam and lifter problems are happening on 2013 car also.

Another common problem is the arm on the actuator for the intake runner, that fails.