Looking over all the "what to look for" "should I buy" "what's the best year" post I can find I am having trouble making a decision here. I started out looking at the W211 E63's because you can get a sub 75k for around $20k. Seemed like everyone was say "beware" of head bolt issues, get a 10 or later. Also mention of trans issues, hard downshifts etc. Get the new trans for much better performance.

So I find a 75k 2010 for about $28k and start reading in this forum and it is like a broken record. "still have head stud issues" "get the turbo instead" etc. etc.

Seems like everyone's answer is to simply get the newer model. How come there's seems like little love for the E63? I mean, as cars get older problems are going to come up right? That's just the chance you take. If I add up all the advice I'd basically resolve to go buy a new one. Kind of defeats the purpose of buying used for less then 1/4 of the new price doesn't it? I can repair a lot of bad engines and transmissions for the delta in the cost (well a few anyway....) Not that I would but I'm just saying, that seems like the train of thought here.

So in the end, is a 2010 E63 a good idea or not? Is there enough design improvements over the W211 to justify the $8k increase of the W212 or should I save my money for repairs on a 2007? Thanks in advance.

Adam

 

if you're going to get a 2007 then just get a 2006 E55 for cheaper and it can be made way faster

otherwise get the turbo instead

 

Thanks! I have heard/seen that advise from others as well. I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the concept that a forced induction motor can be more bullet proof than a naturally aspirated? I understand the potential for power but I doubt I would be doing much modding anyway. If I was wanting to mod I'd be looking for a less "hefty" type of vehicle.

 

When making my decision I saw a lot of the same information as you. That is why, two years ago, I purchased a 2011 E63 with no head bolt issue, which can be verified using the engine number of the car you are considering.

 

if you dont plan on modding then the FI engine will be stronger as it has forged internals, while the NA motor doesnt, and in stock form they are pushing close to same power

 

I have a 10 E63 and I haven't had any issues. I bought it for my wife or I would have gotten a turbo. LOL

 

How many miles on it? So you're saying I'm looking at a girls car? LOL

 

2010 here, two months into ownership. Absolutely love it. I'll get a turbo next, it can wait. This NA platform is actually really fun and I am coming from a 650HP E55. I don't worry too much about the head bolts but its hit or miss. I am at 66k.

People pass over these NA cars, and theres a chance it could be the last NA AMG car for a long time, so I figured I had to give it a shot. I am loving it.

 

I love my 2011 E63 with the N/A motor! Stock for stock ...from a dead start I can take my friends 2014 E63 Bi-Turbo 5.5L. He beats me on roll-on starts (I think I need to be a gear lower for those?). My 6.2 N/A also takes his 2016 S63 Coupe from a dead start. I use Race Start, which the S63 doesn't have. So ...I don't see having the N/A motor as a bad thing. However, I will admit ...I'm envious that the Bi-turbo guys can get so much extra hp from a $2k (give or take) tune.

 

I went through the same dilemma back in january. go look at my thread https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-too-much.html

121,000 on my 2010 e63

 

Very helpful thread, hadn't seen that one yet. Thanks.

Being a mechanic by trade (aircraft) I do all my own repairs. At least up until I need an overly priced special tool or proprietary scanner. Obviously the MB can have more of those situations than others and I'm aware of that.

I am just trying to be sure these particular cars aren't flat out lemons. It really seems like some of the issues are actually few and far between. If a major engine issue is a 5% chance, for example, I would probably be willing to risk it.

 

Sure. I am not a certified mechanic by any means, but i am very mechanically inclined, and more than willing to get in and fix it myself. Saves money, it's more rewarding, and if i did it myself, i know i did it right since it's my car.

I do believe it's a slim chance on the m156, Unlike the 6.0 powerstrokes in the older f250 (if you are aware of this issue), pretty much all of them pop the headbolts around 150k miles give or take.

Now this doesn't go to say it WON'T happen, but its unlikely if you do heavily scrutinize the car you're looking at. Listen to it cold start, listen to it warm start. Make sure it cranks up smoothly, and doesn't make strange noise, obviously. Listen for it to idle high for about 30 seconds under a certain oil temp, then idle back down to a normal RPM. I believe if you hear a slight whine/whistle at idle, you have an intake manifold gasket leak. I may be wrong on that one so don't hold me to it. Someone correct me if im wrong.

Take an oil analysis to check for traces of coolant, or excessive wear metal. Yes the dealer looked at me weird for wanting an oil sample. Oh well. Very expensive engine to not do that kind of research.

I still take an oil analysis every time i do an oil change. So far, no coolant in my oil

Check service records, see if the car had lots of repairs done, or if it was relatively problem free.

Depending on the mileage, see what regular maintenance is upcoming, or has just been done. Brake pads and rotors are extremely expensive ($3000+ in parts for pads and rotors i believe, maybe more. Pads alone are a little under $1000) Transmission service is like $500 at a dealer, $330 at an indy shop where i went. I believe it calls for it at 40k, 80k, and 120k. Again, try and locate a car that has most of these little maintenance headaches already knocked out.

I have owned mine since 1/17/16. With 102k on the odometer. Since then, my main issue has been tires. I am on my second set of rear tires and first set of front tires in the 20k i've had the car. Car is correctly aligned now so hopefully that wont be an issue.

Other than that, i had a "charging system error" message. That was believed to be a bad alternator but ended up being the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator. Part was $120. Put the car up on a lift and had it back to normal in 45 minutes. Dealer wanted almost $1000 to install. But, the bad regulator tore the battery up. SO i also bought an OEM battery, $300. Then my serpentine belt broke off. What can you expect, 100k+ miles on the belt. Bought a new one for $50, and after 30 minutes and some cut up arms and hands, the belt was on.

Currently working on some other problems. My glovebox damper is broken i suppose. The glovebox doesn't have that smooth motion it used to have. My sway bar end links are shot. I need new engine mounts soon. Etc Etc.

Just do your research and keep everything up to spec and you should be good. Look for a car where you can possibly get an idea of who the past owner was. Very important if it was broken in properly from the factory. These cars consume oil, so try to find someone that was a car enthusiast (someone that would check the oil and top off as needed). Not someone that just takes it in to the dealer when the car says service required. Try and find a car someone actually cared for and planned to keep for a while in good condition.

Not a rich guy that didn't know what he really was buying, and planned to drive the **** out of it and bail out before the warranty expires, handing the problems off to an unsuspecting car enthusiast.

I guess i've done extensive research because im only 20 years old trying to hold on to this car. I absolutely love it. Tons of power, just the whole experience is awesome if you appreciate the build quality and what not. Such a smooth driving vehicle. Sometimes i forget it has 500+hp.

I can't say enough about the car, but i'm also coming from owning GM pickup trucks and a clapped out beat up 2001 Impala. This is the first car i've ever driven with over 500hp, much less owning one. So it's all a neat experience for me, wouldn't trade it for anything