Hi similiar how? do you have any pictures?

thank you!

 

More info/pics, how did you get past or delete the stock intercooler? If you did, what did you use to connect the turbo charge pipes and temp sensor to the intake manifold? Was the setup split cooling?

I think this will be a fun project while I also add meth to the car.
What GAD used from a earlier post. Below is from a stock CLS 550 or something but similar enough to ours.

 

guys,

where exactly do you tap into the boost for the meth controller?

 

I installed my custom meth kit and I logged my IAT. it seems like my Inatke air temp sensor doesn't see the meth all , very small drop in Inatke air temp by the time the car is on the end 5th gear 155 mph my intake temps are 170 f..... nozzles are placed in the charge pipes right before intercooler.

 

In the middle right where the 2 charge pipes are going into the intercooler there is a plug that's right in the middle . To remove turn and pull. Then just tap into it and reinstall. Atleast that's what I used and it's perfect

 

Read my post, in pre turbo injection. Basically nip the issue right in the butt. Remember it's the turbo that's causing this heat do to the air being compressed, throw some methanol and it sucks the heat out while. Wing compressed and makes the turbo behave more efficient. There are pros and cons so please do your research

 

I have my car at the tuner right now, will pick it up today, we also chose charge pipes as position of the noozles. The Meth kit seller Alkycontrol who has been doing this for 20 years told me pre turbo is only if you cannot place noozles elsewhere, he would not recommend it...

I for example also installed a killerchiller, which cols the charge air through the AC, but also noticed through obd IAT sensor I was not able to notice temp changes any lower really at all

 

increase the methanol flow by decreasing the start and peak boost numbers using the methanol controller.

 

well it's been working for me. In my big turbo 4cyl for about 7 years now. With out issue. Infact during the fall I remove my pre turbo injection and use solely my post intercooler, during the summer I re install my pre turbo. Every single article I've read personal tried and tested location, pre intercooler is the worst. Best results are post intercooler or pre turbo. I have the graph that clearly shows gains. As long as it flashes and atomizes right you don't have to worry about the turbo impeller wearing. I mean hey what suits you brotha, just figured I'd try and show what has been working for me for years. We just want what's best for our engines lol

 

Cifdig, is right 100% installing the nozzles on charge pipes is Before the intercooler! is a bad idea it can even hurt the perfomance as the intercooler will lose the efficient to cool. I believe my car lost perfomance. best thing to do is after the intercooler on the manifold in our case so the intake air temp sensor can get hit and reduce the temp , or easy way pre turbo.

 

I agree pre I/C isn’t optimal but I wouldn’t go as far as to say it’s a bad idea. Post I/C is optimal but it’s also a significantly more difficult job. While my results would no doubt be better with the nozzles that location, I am seeing better IATs with the nozzles in the charge pipes. I don’t know if I’m actually gaining any hp but lower IATs are always a good thing.

 

Thats not the intake air temp sensor, thats the MAP sensor. Intake temp sensor sit close to the throttle body.

 

I am spraying 2 big nozzels on the charge pipe and i always log my IAT, i dont see no change in Intake air temp i will report back once i move them pre turbo and then post I/C , how ever my car is a 2012 and i did split the cooling system yet.

 

What size nozzle do you plan on spraying. Also what rpm /boost level are you going to activate it? Activation time is crucial, you want it to activate while the turbo is about to hit peak that way when they slow down it's not dramatic . The turbo will spin slightly slower not much then pick up and hold the power longer. Look at my graph so you can see when it starts . Every car will behave differently so just play with it until your car feels right. Also remember don't go by butt dyno. To me it felt the same , which I was ok with I simply wanted a cooler charge but I actually gained a bit without tuning for it.

 

I have 3 size nozzles from AEM, small, medium and large i will start with small and is progressive start spraying at 5 psi and full around 12 psi what do you think? I will strap the car on the dyno and see if the power is there and log IAT

 

I have the same car and haven’t done the split cooling either. I started with the AEM medium jets and couldn’t see any differences in IATs. Went to the smaller jets and saw a 20*f drop on 60-130 pulls.

 

I have two big nozzles. They were set to start at 8 PSI I turned it down to 2 PSI. Gradually turned the peak flow from 25 to 15 meaning the flow is 100% at 15 psi. This resulted in tremendous Improvement in wide open throttle iat. Also improved my quarter mile

 

Congrats on achieving your 60hp back and getting great results on your pre turbo injection. Glad you gave it a try . Some are afraid due to the lack of info they have on it. Maybe this will start a path that will lead us to better IAT and More power

 

on cars deff is better pre turbo, charge pipe did not work on my car I lost 60 whp!

 

Whats the best location and size setup for W/M injection. Im using the AEM V3. Thank you

 

From reading through this thread, it seems best location for effect is post IC and pre IAT sensor. However this is a harder job to do. Seems also effective and much easier install is pre turbo location. Regarding size nozzle I think this will depend on what mix you going to run.. If you going more water than meth mix then you need a smaller nozzle versus if you going 100% meth mix then you can go bigger nozzle.

 

After reading more than half the thread I've come to the conclusion that no one knows what water/methanol injection is really for. Water/methanol injection will not increase hp. It prevents detonation. There is a limit to how much boost you can force into a cylinder before the cylinder walls becomes too hot and will ignite the fuel mixture early. This can cause a number of problems. Messed up bearings, bent rods, and other things that blow up your engine. Water/methanol injection is sprayed to cool down the cylinder walls and other hot spots. This allows you to boost past the normal point of detonation. Installing water/methanol injection will only give you more power if you increase your boost. Generally speaking it is a failsafe to prevent detonation when boost is increased. That's why it's set to come on after a certain psi of boost ans not on all the time. You need to install a boost controller to see the benefits of water/methanol injection. Well realistically it just gives you a piece of mind knowing that you won't blow up your engine from detonation. That's why it gives you so much more power with a tune. If you tune for it, you risk detonation if your tank runs out or if your pump fails. It's really simple technology. All your doing is installing a fuel injector right in front of the throttle body with a fuel pump that's pumping water or methanol. The controller opens the injector at your preset psi. Honestly I'm amazed they sell the kits for so much money. You could buy an injector and a pump fairly cheap. Even the controllers aren't that expensive since it only has one function. The mark up for these things are ridiculous. Now tha5 you know what water/methanol injection is for go install a boost controller along with it and enjoy

 

So colder denser air does nothing for power? Good to know, I'll ask my car why it's slower in the summer.
I'd imagine people shooting for power are running pure meth. Imo the water is so they can sell the juice, ship it via ups, and not get sued for car fires. Still, even w/ 50/50, people can feel the power gains, even when put before the intercooler.

 

Spraying before the intercooler or on the intercooler will cool down charge temps and increase power but that's not water/methanol injection. Water/methanol is sprayed right before the throttle body and it's done to cool down the cylinder to prevent detonation. It does not cool down the charged air. The point of it is if your boost is limited due to detonation then you can spray and safely increase your boost. So if you don't have a boost controller installed you won't see any benefits from water/methanol injection. The reason you buy methanol is because if you live in an area that has winters below freezing the methanol won't freeze. If you live in a tropical area you could just spray water all day

 

Basically it increases your octane. High hp cars don't recommend running 89 octane fuels. Octane dictates temperature before detonation. So if you put 89 octane fuel in a turbo car you would have to limit boost to prevent detonation but no one does that. It's easier to just put higher octane fuel in your car. Same concept for race fuel. You burn nearly twice as much race fuel compared to gasoline to make the same amount of power but race fuel has a much higher tolerance for heat. So you have to increase boost to see the benefits of race fuel. Why do you think you don't see any naturally aspirated cars converting to e85