M157 E63 diy brake pad change
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Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Kirkland, WA (Seattle to most of you)
2014 E63 Wagon
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From: miami / delray beach
2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
I always grease the pins and anti-squeel on the backplate
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 249
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From: Kirkland, WA (Seattle to most of you)
2014 E63 Wagon
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From: Charlotte, NC
2016 E63s Wagon
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MB
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,841
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From: miami / delray beach
2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...aliper-lube-4/
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Joined: May 2016
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2012 e63 amg
for the USA !!
I bought 2 new sensors anyway when I changed my pads, there 5 bucks each, this way I had the new sensors set in the pads prior to changing , but you definitely can reuse them if the rotor didn't scrape into them , there is only 2 sensors for all for corners the sensors are on the passenger side.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Atlanta
'12 E63, E55(sold), C32 (sold), '65 Skylark GS 445 convertible, '12 ML350
This is awesome guys.... exactly what I was looking for and significantly easier than my wife's ML it looks like (surprising).
I'm at 36K so I'm going to try just the pads before doing the rotors as well....
I'm at 36K so I'm going to try just the pads before doing the rotors as well....
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 609
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From: Boston area
2016 E63 Wagon
i've done my brakes this way for over 20 yrs (multiple amg's , audis, jeeps, mustang and peugot) and never had a problem..... dirty fluid is already in the system before you compress the pistons... its not like its held in some "dirty fluid containment center" within the brake lines prior to compressing the piston 
the main reason why some people say not to compress is because dirt on the actual exterior of the piston can scratch/rip the seal but if you clean the piston exterior then no worries...
other main reason why some people say not to compress is old ABS systems used to be 2 way and forcing fluid back into the ABS module could damage its valves, but our newer abs systems are one-way with check valve that will only let the fluid flow in one direction so not an issue on our cars
but if you are super worried then yes putting some tubing on the bleeder screw, feeding it to cup with fluid in it, and opening the screw as compressing will eliminate one of the compressing concerns, but not the other one
the main reason why some people say not to compress is because dirt on the actual exterior of the piston can scratch/rip the seal but if you clean the piston exterior then no worries...
other main reason why some people say not to compress is old ABS systems used to be 2 way and forcing fluid back into the ABS module could damage its valves, but our newer abs systems are one-way with check valve that will only let the fluid flow in one direction so not an issue on our cars
but if you are super worried then yes putting some tubing on the bleeder screw, feeding it to cup with fluid in it, and opening the screw as compressing will eliminate one of the compressing concerns, but not the other one
Of course it's a good idea to do a brake fluid flush every two/three years or so depending on quality of brake fluid and usage pattern.
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Joined: Apr 2018
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From: Boston area
2016 E63 Wagon
Permatex Disc brake Quiet
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Virginia, USA
2014 E63 S-AMG Wagon
Just a note on this older series of posts for brake fluid changes:
I have always used ATE brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, whatever called for the vehicle). It comes in 2 colors, red and blue,.. same formulation. I alternate between the two because it makes it easy to see when new fluid has entered your caliper from the reservoir... other than guessing if the amber looks a little lighter.
Just a note.. thanks and have a great day!
I have always used ATE brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, whatever called for the vehicle). It comes in 2 colors, red and blue,.. same formulation. I alternate between the two because it makes it easy to see when new fluid has entered your caliper from the reservoir... other than guessing if the amber looks a little lighter.
Just a note.. thanks and have a great day!
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 636
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From: Orange County, Ca
C350
Failed attempt
I tried to replace my pads last night but wasn't able to do so. I was able to drive the top pin out about 1 inch and then it seemed to be stuck. Pulling on it from behind with pliers didn't help, so i tried to drive out the rear pin and that also went in about 1 inch and then stopped and I couldn't get it out, so I ended up driving the pins back in and am thinking about taking it to the shop to do but I'm getting quotes from $180 to $300 for pad and rotor change (labor only)
I have don't pad and rotor change many times on other cars but for some reason this change which everyone ways is super easy, has me stuck. Has anyone else run into this problem or have any advice? I see now that I didn't push down on the spring when trying to pull out the top pin, can that be the reason?
I have don't pad and rotor change many times on other cars but for some reason this change which everyone ways is super easy, has me stuck. Has anyone else run into this problem or have any advice? I see now that I didn't push down on the spring when trying to pull out the top pin, can that be the reason?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 390
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From: Queens,New York
E63s
I tried to replace my pads last night but wasn't able to do so. I was able to drive the top pin out about 1 inch and then it seemed to be stuck. Pulling on it from behind with pliers didn't help, so i tried to drive out the rear pin and that also went in about 1 inch and then stopped and I couldn't get it out, so I ended up driving the pins back in and am thinking about taking it to the shop to do but I'm getting quotes from $180 to $300 for pad and rotor change (labor only)
I have don't pad and rotor change many times on other cars but for some reason this change which everyone ways is super easy, has me stuck. Has anyone else run into this problem or have any advice? I see now that I didn't push down on the spring when trying to pull out the top pin, can that be the reason?
I have don't pad and rotor change many times on other cars but for some reason this change which everyone ways is super easy, has me stuck. Has anyone else run into this problem or have any advice? I see now that I didn't push down on the spring when trying to pull out the top pin, can that be the reason?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 636
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From: Orange County, Ca
C350
I tried again tonight and was successful in replacing the pads only. I had to do it differently though. Once the pin passed the pad it would angle downward and pushing down on the spring wouldn’t straighten it out so I used a screwdriver to shift the spring back and forth until the pin slowly moved out by friction.
That being said, what type of lube do you use one your caliper pins?
Also, I noticed that there are chips on the backside of my calipers, is that gonna cause a problem down the road or just looks bad? If it’s just bad looking, I’m not super concerned since only the backside of the caliper is chipped and not the front side.
That being said, what type of lube do you use one your caliper pins?
Also, I noticed that there are chips on the backside of my calipers, is that gonna cause a problem down the road or just looks bad? If it’s just bad looking, I’m not super concerned since only the backside of the caliper is chipped and not the front side.
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 765
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From: Los Angeles
2024 GLE63s, 2021 E63s, 2018 GLC43
Great guide. Just finished replacing my pads on all 4 corners. Used EBC Red Stuff, got them from Amazon. Dealer wanted $1200 or $1400. Took me about 2 hours, half of it spent jacking the car up and getting the wheels on and off without any air tools. Car has 24K miles, the rear pads were about 0.5mm away from wearing the sensor, and the fronts were about 2mm away. Took it for a 14mi drive. First few miles were a little bit spongy when first pressing down on the brakes, and then it now has a strong bite better than stock pads. No squealing or funny noises. I await the EBC pads making less dust.
My tips:
- On the front, it's easier if you take out the bottom pin first, then the top easily slides out.
- My 13mm bolts didn't require any effort at all to unscrew.
- I reused the sensors, they weren't yet worn.
- I used the grease that came with the EBC pads to grease the back of the pads and the sides where the black back plate is, and a tiny dab on where the pins cross the pads.
- I had to remove about 12cc brake fluid after changing the fronts and another 12cc after changing the rears, otherwise the reservoir would have overflowed.
- One of the pins on rears is very close to some cable/line. I used a socket extension between the hammer and pin to get the pin back in place so I wouldn't hammer the cable.
My tips:
- On the front, it's easier if you take out the bottom pin first, then the top easily slides out.
- My 13mm bolts didn't require any effort at all to unscrew.
- I reused the sensors, they weren't yet worn.
- I used the grease that came with the EBC pads to grease the back of the pads and the sides where the black back plate is, and a tiny dab on where the pins cross the pads.
- I had to remove about 12cc brake fluid after changing the fronts and another 12cc after changing the rears, otherwise the reservoir would have overflowed.
- One of the pins on rears is very close to some cable/line. I used a socket extension between the hammer and pin to get the pin back in place so I wouldn't hammer the cable.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 765
Likes: 289
From: Los Angeles
2024 GLE63s, 2021 E63s, 2018 GLC43
Just a 2k mile update with the EBC Red. It makes about 1/10th the dust compared to OEM, as in after 10 days of driving with EBC pads, rims are as dusty as 1 single day of driving with the stock pads. They were pretty dusty initially for the first 200 miles until the priming layer or whatever it is wore off.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 282
Likes: 26
2012 CLS 63
can you change pads without changing rotors on this car? ive always been told by shops/dealerships that I have to replace both at the same time so thats what ive done. if this is not the case I've been lied to again...
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 418
Likes: 44
From: Vancouver, BC
2014 E63 S
There is no need to change rotors if they are within thickness service limits and otherwise fine (i.e. no excessive cracks, warps, overheating etc.).
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 282
Likes: 26
2012 CLS 63
SMH Ive been paying a grip for every brake job. This is why I Hate the dealership and auto shops. I changed rotors that were perfectly fine just because they said they have to be changed at the same time. 3 dealerships have told me this and 1 indy shop on separate occasions. but my common sense has always told me different. Do you guys sand the rotors down before changing the pads to avoid squealing?
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 765
Likes: 289
From: Los Angeles
2024 GLE63s, 2021 E63s, 2018 GLC43
I just take off old pads and put new ones on, leaving the rotors alone. Replace rotors after replacing brake pads 3 times based on my driving, or measure the thickness and replace when needed.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 108
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From: Houston
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 72
Likes: 25
'26 E53 | '08 E90M
Thanks for this. Had not personally worked with this open-bridge Brembo 6pot before and I was being dumb and needed this to help me get it apart. The rears were cave-man simple.
Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.
Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm
Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper
Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.
Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.
Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm
Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper
Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.
Last edited by Richbot; Jan 14, 2020 at 02:23 PM.
