M157 E63 diy brake pad change
Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.
Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm
Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper
Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.
, That’s actually the 1 thing I don’t like is that mechanical ebrake seems so old that you have to push a lever with your foot , the new E63s went with the electronic e brake too
I know the drill - I had Carly back when it was still called BMWhat. Merc's serviceability has been a real surprise for me - i was not expecting it to be much easier for the routine stuff than many of my BMW's have been.
I was also not expecting it to be Certified Pre-Broken and need close to $3k in warranty work that should have been caught and fixed before sale within 6 months of buying the car CPO, but hey, tanstaafl, and it works now
Last edited by Richbot; Jan 14, 2020 at 03:25 PM.
For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.




For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.
PS. Great write up OP
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I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone brake grease for pads and pins.
My pads https://racingbrake.com/pd1291-391 are without "weights" and have holes (not hooks) for the pins.. doesn't seem to make a difference.
I did not reuse thin metal shims that were on OEM pads per RB recommendation.
Removed some brake fluid to get it under MAX line, used a plastic syringe.
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
i did these pads and the 2 piece rotors on my 2012 e63. I think the pads were labeled amg, and trw and textar. Was pretty funny. What sucks is that they are squeaking so bad on slow stopping. I dont think they are worn. Its been 15000 miles or so. I bed them in proper, Squeaking has only started a few 1000 miles ago. They still work fine
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
I will consider them when RB pads are due for replacement, they feel too noisy when cold and clunking when initially engaging (although this might not be about the pads).
I also learned that "lubing" the sliding surfaces is quite short lived with a few different greases, with heat and dust it eventually becomes a hardened dirty paste and might contribute to my clunking noises..
MB stealership charged me an hour to tell everything is fine and clunking is due to aftermarket disks and pads





