M157 E63 diy brake pad change
#77
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Queens,New York
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E63s
Thanks for this. Had not personally worked with this open-bridge Brembo 6pot before and I was being dumb and needed this to help me get it apart. The rears were cave-man simple.
Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.
Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm
Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper
Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.
Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.
Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm
Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper
Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#78
Junior Member
lol BMW's way = 3 extra steps plus purchasing an app plus if you want CPO coverage you have to follow them on instagram
I know the drill - I had Carly back when it was still called BMWhat. Merc's serviceability has been a real surprise for me - i was not expecting it to be much easier for the routine stuff than many of my BMW's have been.
I was also not expecting it to be Certified Pre-Broken and need close to $3k in warranty work that should have been caught and fixed before sale within 6 months of buying the car CPO, but hey, tanstaafl, and it works now
I know the drill - I had Carly back when it was still called BMWhat. Merc's serviceability has been a real surprise for me - i was not expecting it to be much easier for the routine stuff than many of my BMW's have been.
I was also not expecting it to be Certified Pre-Broken and need close to $3k in warranty work that should have been caught and fixed before sale within 6 months of buying the car CPO, but hey, tanstaafl, and it works now
Last edited by Richbot; 01-14-2020 at 03:25 PM.
#79
Sorry to add on to this thread, but didn't want to start a new one.
For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.
For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.
#80
Super Member
Sorry to add on to this thread, but didn't want to start a new one.
For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.
For the rear calipers, I can't seem to find a replacement hardware set (pins and tension plate). Anyone know the part #? The only one I found was centric 117.35058, but that's noted for rear ceramics, not iron.
#81
Looks like wire brush it is. I'll probably order that part # i noted above, its only $10...and if its not right, oh well. Maybe someone else will come along with the answer!
#82
I am going to be doing my front pads soon and I believe I need to do my rotors as well, what is the acceptable measurement for the front rotors before they have to be changed out. I think I have a decent lip on them but I want to make sure as the front rotors are an easy $1k to replace. Also if doing the front rotors how much harder is it from just doing the pads? Is it pretty straight forward?
PS. Great write up OP
PS. Great write up OP
#84
The following 3 users liked this post by Mojo20032004:
#87
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LOL R-Rated DIY brake video? I tried Save to playlist and Save to watch later and get this:
"This action is turned off for content made for kids"
"This action is turned off for content made for kids"
#88
Super Member
#89
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#90
Super Member
#91
Junior Member
Very useful thread, helped me change my front pads (together with RB rotors).
I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone brake grease for pads and pins.
My pads https://racingbrake.com/pd1291-391 are without "weights" and have holes (not hooks) for the pins.. doesn't seem to make a difference.
I did not reuse thin metal shims that were on OEM pads per RB recommendation.
Removed some brake fluid to get it under MAX line, used a plastic syringe.
I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone brake grease for pads and pins.
My pads https://racingbrake.com/pd1291-391 are without "weights" and have holes (not hooks) for the pins.. doesn't seem to make a difference.
I did not reuse thin metal shims that were on OEM pads per RB recommendation.
Removed some brake fluid to get it under MAX line, used a plastic syringe.
#92
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: W Hollywood, CA
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'06 SLK55, '14 E63S Estate
SEP22 Front brake job
Wanted to chime in, having just completed this job a few times in a short period. In late August, I installed new Brembo 2 piece rotors and (FCP supplied) Textar pads on the front axle prior to driving my '14 E63S Estate from Boston to LA. I drive rather aggressively, and had CO canyon driving and Lots of high speed transit in mind so I was skeptical of the FF heat rating on the Textars and their ability to handle the hard use.
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
#93
MBWorld Fanatic!
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-0054206620
i did these pads and the 2 piece rotors on my 2012 e63. I think the pads were labeled amg, and trw and textar. Was pretty funny. What sucks is that they are squeaking so bad on slow stopping. I dont think they are worn. Its been 15000 miles or so. I bed them in proper, Squeaking has only started a few 1000 miles ago. They still work fine
i did these pads and the 2 piece rotors on my 2012 e63. I think the pads were labeled amg, and trw and textar. Was pretty funny. What sucks is that they are squeaking so bad on slow stopping. I dont think they are worn. Its been 15000 miles or so. I bed them in proper, Squeaking has only started a few 1000 miles ago. They still work fine
#94
Senior Member
Wanted to chime in, having just completed this job a few times in a short period. In late August, I installed new Brembo 2 piece rotors and (FCP supplied) Textar pads on the front axle prior to driving my '14 E63S Estate from Boston to LA. I drive rather aggressively, and had CO canyon driving and Lots of high speed transit in mind so I was skeptical of the FF heat rating on the Textars and their ability to handle the hard use.
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
#95
Junior Member
Wanted to chime in, having just completed this job a few times in a short period. In late August, I installed new Brembo 2 piece rotors and (FCP supplied) Textar pads on the front axle prior to driving my '14 E63S Estate from Boston to LA. I drive rather aggressively, and had CO canyon driving and Lots of high speed transit in mind so I was skeptical of the FF heat rating on the Textars and their ability to handle the hard use.
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
Well, the verdict's in: the Textars did poorly. Completely worn down to the backing plates in 6k miles. And the dust was IMMENSE. So, I decided to go back to an OE "GG" rated pad. Come to find out, however, that the current pad being sold for my car at the dealership is a lower temp, FF pad (also less expensive). So, I dug up this part # for proper GG pads: 000 420 63 04. They are semi-metallic, and a bit more expensive but based upon my driving with these pads for a week now they are worth it for the decreased dust alone! Slightly improved bite, and they are perfectly quiet.
One last thing: don't forget to clean and lubricate the 'slides' inside the caliper that the pad contacts!
I will consider them when RB pads are due for replacement, they feel too noisy when cold and clunking when initially engaging (although this might not be about the pads).
I also learned that "lubing" the sliding surfaces is quite short lived with a few different greases, with heat and dust it eventually becomes a hardened dirty paste and might contribute to my clunking noises..
MB stealership charged me an hour to tell everything is fine and clunking is due to aftermarket disks and pads