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did this about a month ago and just got around to posting it up here since didnt see a diy brake pad change
super easy (takes about 15 min per side including jacking up car and taking off tires and reinstalling tire) and saves you about $800 or so, depending on your dealers cost
first step is jack car up and take off wheel and open brake fluid cap -if you need instructions on this then you need to not attempt
for passenger side only you need to remove sensor from old pads and from caliper (caliper part not totally necessary but keeps it out of way and makes it easier)
next you need to hammer out the 2 pins in the caliper
you will need to push down on the plate below to relieve enough pressure to get first pin out, then second pin comes out easy and plate pops out
next you undo and remove the center bolt (13M)... mine was stuck so i backed the bolt head out a little and gave it a little tap with hammer to break it lose
next you spread the old pads out so that you can fit the new thicker ones in... i just used a ratchet extension to spread pads to compress pistons into their bore
old pads out and new pads ready to go in (put thin layer of anti squeal lube on back of new pads)
now put them in and reinstall plate, then top pin (easier than doing bottom pin first) then bottom pen, (and sensor on passenger side only) and bolt and you are done ... close brake fluid cap and pump your brakes to moved fluid back into that caliper and then move on to next caliper.... repeat same on next side... once finished go find road with little/no traffic and do 5 or so hard stops from 60mph to standstill in a row to bed in brakes while listening to spice girls... has to be spice girls or it wont work
I would caution you all on spreading the pads (compressing the caliper piston) without bleeding the fluid at the same time.
If you simply compress the piston, you are forcing old dirty fluid back into the system. This can lead to premature master cylinder failure, contamination, etc. The fluid at the piston and piston boot will be the dirtiest fluid in your braking system. You do not want that forced back into your braking system. To avoid this:
Attach a length of flexible hose to the brake bleeder valve that will drain into a reservoir (I use an old Big Gulp cup -- lol). As you start to compress the piston, crack open the bleeder valve to allow all that dirty fluid to drain into the cup. When you are about to stop applying pressure to the piston, close the bleeder valve. All you need is 1/4 turn in either directions (open or closed). You want to avoid any air in the system, so make sure you close the bleeder BEFORE the fluid flow stops. Continue this process until the piston is fully compressed. When new pads are installed, top of reservoir to full mark with fresh fluid. That is this is the process I follow.
As an alternative, you can simply bleed the brake system after pad installation. Although compressing the pistons without bleeding at the same time will force some contaminants into the master cylinder, most will be flushed out.
I recommend you do the compress/bleed procedure. When pads are installed, bleed/flush the entire system.
I have never seen a mechanic worth his salt install pads without bleeding out the dirty fluid when compressing the caliper pistons. I have spoken with several mechanics over the years and their process is now what I do (bleed the fluid as you compress). I tracked cars for 10 years and went through pads like toilet paper. I never had a brake system issue using the method above.
I would caution you all on spreading the pads (compressing the caliper piston) without bleeding the fluid at the same time.
If you simply compress the piston, you are forcing old dirty fluid back into the system. This can lead to premature master cylinder failure, contamination, etc. The fluid at the piston and piston boot will be the dirtiest fluid in your braking system. You do not want that forced back into your braking system. To avoid this:
Attach a length of flexible hose to the brake bleeder valve that will drain into a reservoir (I use an old Big Gulp cup -- lol). As you start to compress the piston, crack open the bleeder valve to allow all that dirty fluid to drain into the cup. When you are about to stop applying pressure to the piston, close the bleeder valve. All you need is 1/4 turn in either directions (open or closed). You want to avoid any air in the system, so make sure you close the bleeder BEFORE the fluid flow stops. Continue this process until the piston is fully compressed. When new pads are installed, top of reservoir to full mark with fresh fluid. That is this is the process I follow.
As an alternative, you can simply bleed the brake system after pad installation. Although compressing the pistons without bleeding at the same time will force some contaminants into the master cylinder, most will be flushed out.
I recommend you do the compress/bleed procedure. When pads are installed, bleed/flush the entire system.
I have never seen a mechanic worth his salt install pads without bleeding out the dirty fluid when compressing the caliper pistons. I have spoken with several mechanics over the years and their process is now what I do (bleed the fluid as you compress). I tracked cars for 10 years and went through pads like toilet paper. I never had a brake system issue using the method above.
Just my $.02.
i've done my brakes this way for over 20 yrs (multiple amg's , audis, jeeps, mustang and peugot) and never had a problem..... dirty fluid is already in the system before you compress the pistons... its not like its held in some "dirty fluid containment center" within the brake lines prior to compressing the piston
the main reason why some people say not to compress is because dirt on the actual exterior of the piston can scratch/rip the seal but if you clean the piston exterior then no worries...
other main reason why some people say not to compress is old ABS systems used to be 2 way and forcing fluid back into the ABS module could damage its valves, but our newer abs systems are one-way with check valve that will only let the fluid flow in one direction so not an issue on our cars
but if you are super worried then yes putting some tubing on the bleeder screw, feeding it to cup with fluid in it, and opening the screw as compressing will eliminate one of the compressing concerns, but not the other one
I can't believe how quick the change is - even WITH bleeding the labor cost from dealers is remarkably high.
Just curious how you came to choose the EBC Redstuff vs other pad options.
Thanks for the writeup!
i choose EBC ones because they had the best reviews of the low dust options out there and had regular EBC pads on other cars before and always found them to work well
i've done my brakes this way for over 20 yrs (multiple amg's , audis, jeeps, mustang and peugot) and never had a problem..... dirty fluid is already in the system before you compress the pistons... its not like its held in some "dirty fluid containment center" within the brake lines prior to compressing the piston
the main reason why some people say not to compress is because dirt on the actual exterior of the piston can scratch/rip the seal but if you clean the piston exterior then no worries...
other main reason why some people say not to compress is old ABS systems used to be 2 way and forcing fluid back into the ABS module could damage its valves, but our newer abs systems are one-way with check valve that will only let the fluid flow in one direction so not an issue on our cars
but if you are super worried then yes putting some tubing on the bleeder screw, feeding it to cup with fluid in it, and opening the screw as compressing will eliminate one of the compressing concerns, but not the other one
Duly noted. I am probably being too **** about the whole thing...lol
Mercedes SL63 AMG; Mercedes E63 AMG S 4matic; Mercedes C43 AMG; Mercedes S Class, Mercedes GLK
I'm assuming your rotors were still in good shape, didn't need to be turned? I don't often change pads without doing something with the rotors at the same time. In the pictures, although a bit far away your rotors do look pretty clean. On my E and SL which are both coming due for replacements (I purchased the same pads as you) I will be replacing the rotors. I've heard it's a bit difficult, albeit not impossible to turn cross drilled rotors. Thoughts based on your experience?
I'm assuming your rotors were still in good shape, didn't need to be turned? I don't often change pads without doing something with the rotors at the same time. In the pictures, although a bit far away your rotors do look pretty clean. On my E and SL which are both coming due for replacements (I purchased the same pads as you) I will be replacing the rotors. I've heard it's a bit difficult, albeit not impossible to turn cross drilled rotors. Thoughts based on your experience?
yeah thats the thing is unless you know someone really good then i dont trust turning on cross-drilled rotors, i just assume buy new rotors when time comes but as of now mine are still in spec with 35K miles on them and no lip/ridge on them
i choose EBC ones because they had the best reviews of the low dust options out there and had regular EBC pads on other cars before and always found them to work well
That's a good price compared to the others too, do you have the part numbers? I was looking on their website and it doesn't let you filter by make/model.
That's a good price compared to the others too, do you have the part numbers? I was looking on their website and it doesn't let you filter by make/model.
i got mine from auto parts warehouse
Part #: E35DP31939C (rear)
EBC – REDSTUFF CERAMIC BRAKE PAD SETS
EBC’s Redstuff brake pads are a unique blend of Aramid fibers and ceramic particles that combine to produce a pad that provides up to 25 percent shorter braking distances and 80 p Brake Pad Set E63 AMG S
EBC
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 118.03
Part #: E35DP32117C (front)
EBC – REDSTUFF CERAMIC BRAKE PAD SETS
EBC’s Redstuff brake pads are a unique blend of Aramid fibers and ceramic particles that combine to produce a pad that provides up to 25 percent shorter braking distances and 80 p Brake Pad Set E63 AMG S
EBC
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 161.11
i've done my brakes this way for over 20 yrs (multiple amg's , audis, jeeps, mustang and peugot) and never had a problem..... dirty fluid is already in the system before you compress the pistons... its not like its held in some "dirty fluid containment center" within the brake lines prior to compressing the piston
2nd, if my fluid's decently fresh I'm not bleeding anything for a pad swap
I bought 2 new sensors anyway when I changed my pads, there 5 bucks each, this way I had the new sensors set in the pads prior to changing , but you definitely can reuse them if the rotor didn't scrape into them , there is only 2 sensors for all for corners the sensors are on the passenger side.
02-22-2017, 04:37 PM
