dav461

Didn't you apply a grease ? It doesn't squeak?

ajs76

I greased the back of the pads AND then cleaned/greased the pins (the DIY didn't mention greasing the pins). If I'm honest, I have no idea if that grease was a good or bad idea.

Net net - brakes feel great and don't squeak.

gaspam

I always grease the pins and anti-squeel on the backplate

ajs76

Ok good, I was slightly worried I was going to read this "you greased the pins? OMG YOUR BRAKES ARE GOING TO FALL OFF". Thanks man

cemeek

Curious which product you use for these; silicon for pins, but copper or graphite for the backplate, hardware and pad-to-caliper friction points? Name brand?

Thanks!

6speeddave

+1 curious on this as well as my new RB XT910 rear pads are squealing.

gaspam

ive always use permatex whenever i do my brakes

https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...aliper-lube-4/

Matt1e

But on the drivers side for the UK !!!

E55 KEV

thanks for the write up and pics

pullejo

This is awesome guys.... exactly what I was looking for and significantly easier than my wife's ML it looks like (surprising).

I'm at 36K so I'm going to try just the pads before doing the rotors as well....

FastWgn

Second on this - no need to worry about contamination into cylinder etc from brake fluid going backwards. - not even close to enough fluid being pushed back.
Of course it's a good idea to do a brake fluid flush every two/three years or so depending on quality of brake fluid and usage pattern.

FastWgn

if you do have squeal I can highly recommend the following spray. On the back of the pads and create a half sticky, rubbery surface that stops squeal.

Permatex Disc brake Quiet

Billmiranda

Just a note on this older series of posts for brake fluid changes:

I have always used ATE brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, whatever called for the vehicle). It comes in 2 colors, red and blue,.. same formulation. I alternate between the two because it makes it easy to see when new fluid has entered your caliper from the reservoir... other than guessing if the amber looks a little lighter.
Just a note.. thanks and have a great day!

delirium

I tried to replace my pads last night but wasn't able to do so. I was able to drive the top pin out about 1 inch and then it seemed to be stuck. Pulling on it from behind with pliers didn't help, so i tried to drive out the rear pin and that also went in about 1 inch and then stopped and I couldn't get it out, so I ended up driving the pins back in and am thinking about taking it to the shop to do but I'm getting quotes from $180 to $300 for pad and rotor change (labor only)

I have don't pad and rotor change many times on other cars but for some reason this change which everyone ways is super easy, has me stuck. Has anyone else run into this problem or have any advice? I see now that I didn't push down on the spring when trying to pull out the top pin, can that be the reason?

10speed

delirium

taphil

Great guide. Just finished replacing my pads on all 4 corners. Used EBC Red Stuff, got them from Amazon. Dealer wanted $1200 or $1400. Took me about 2 hours, half of it spent jacking the car up and getting the wheels on and off without any air tools. Car has 24K miles, the rear pads were about 0.5mm away from wearing the sensor, and the fronts were about 2mm away. Took it for a 14mi drive. First few miles were a little bit spongy when first pressing down on the brakes, and then it now has a strong bite better than stock pads. No squealing or funny noises. I await the EBC pads making less dust.

My tips:
- On the front, it's easier if you take out the bottom pin first, then the top easily slides out.
- My 13mm bolts didn't require any effort at all to unscrew.
- I reused the sensors, they weren't yet worn.
- I used the grease that came with the EBC pads to grease the back of the pads and the sides where the black back plate is, and a tiny dab on where the pins cross the pads.
- I had to remove about 12cc brake fluid after changing the fronts and another 12cc after changing the rears, otherwise the reservoir would have overflowed.
- One of the pins on rears is very close to some cable/line. I used a socket extension between the hammer and pin to get the pin back in place so I wouldn't hammer the cable.

E63_SauceGod

hehe, he said **** :-)

taphil

Just a 2k mile update with the EBC Red. It makes about 1/10th the dust compared to OEM, as in after 10 days of driving with EBC pads, rims are as dusty as 1 single day of driving with the stock pads. They were pretty dusty initially for the first 200 miles until the priming layer or whatever it is wore off.

amgboy916

can you change pads without changing rotors on this car? ive always been told by shops/dealerships that I have to replace both at the same time so thats what ive done. if this is not the case I've been lied to again...

HPMan

There is no need to change rotors if they are within thickness service limits and otherwise fine (i.e. no excessive cracks, warps, overheating etc.).

amgboy916

SMH Ive been paying a grip for every brake job. This is why I Hate the dealership and auto shops. I changed rotors that were perfectly fine just because they said they have to be changed at the same time. 3 dealerships have told me this and 1 indy shop on separate occasions. but my common sense has always told me different. Do you guys sand the rotors down before changing the pads to avoid squealing?

taphil

I just take off old pads and put new ones on, leaving the rotors alone. Replace rotors after replacing brake pads 3 times based on my driving, or measure the thickness and replace when needed.

fever

Billmiranda

55 Patrician? That's money.

Richbot

Thanks for this. Had not personally worked with this open-bridge Brembo 6pot before and I was being dumb and needed this to help me get it apart. The rears were cave-man simple.

Happily the rotors are all well abvoe service limits (last changed rotors and pads by previous owner at 21k, he must have had a lot of stop and go driving as I got another 12k out of these pads which were already pretty thin at 26.5k when I got the car. That brake job was his 2nd pad change in 21k miles! So, thankfully, I had to do was pads and sensors all around. Took a couple hours start to finish including cleanup.

Just so it's findable with a search in the future, here's what I found when I looked up the minimum service thickness (the point at which the dealer tech would signal the rotors need to be changed with the pads):
Front: 33.5mm
Rear: 24.5mm

Mine were 34.8-35.3 front, 25.0-25.25 rear, approx, with a rotor caliper


Nice the sensors don't need to be reset etc., much smarter than the BMW system which can freak out and refuse to reset via the dashboard after you trip a sensor, and the connector setup is nice too, much simpler design. I guess that's why the sensors are $5 instead of $25. Continue to be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is DIY on this thing. Shame more people haven't caught on.