S63BenzO

Hey so yes that is the second location IF YOU DONT WANT TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. You just need to be careful and drill and tap it slowly, some use a shop vac to suck up all debris an even when you’re finished drilling you can use a shop vac and small hose to try an get any debris out possible that may fall in.
The best location is here on the intercooler but the manifold needs to be removed to get to it. It gives the meth more time to atomize and work more efficiently also if you spray here relocating the iat sensor isn’t necessary.

Pitbill

Thank you so much for the information. It gives me a little bit more to think about. Does anyone know of any threads or videos on what is involved in removing the intake manifold? I have searched and come up empty on the M157. I’m not afraid to attempt a job myself if I knew exactly what is involved.

S63BenzO

sorry I have screen shots of the removal process not very clear but you can still make it work. It’s not hard at all I did this 2 weeks ago it takes about an 1.5hr your first time but the second time I got it off in like 40 min


W212/w218 intake manifold

Pitbill

Perfect! That’s exactly what I need. Thank you.

Pitbill

Been reading through the service instructions and have a few questions, are there any new gaskets or O rings that will need to be used in reassembly? Perhaps at least the individual intake manifold gaskets or were those reused? Also will I need to bleed or drain any lines before I start? The instructions doesn’t really say to but a good idea to ask someone that has just went through this. Thinking this might be the way I go for my nozzle placement ….. however if not, in regards to moving the IAT sensor for top mount nozzles, would the exact location be the spot marked with the blue paint in this picture by the original poster, or is that just a random spot of paint from the factory? Many thanks for all the info!

S63BenzO

So you will lose coolant when removing the manifold but not a lot. Its up to you if you want to drain it, I just put a pan underneath and it caught it. After of course youll have to top off the coolant and get any air out. The blue mark is just a general location doesn't have to be exact but thats about where you want it.
I replaced my 8 intake man circle gaskets they cost 20$ so why not? Many guys reuse them and have no issues at all its up to you. Thats all you should need.

Pitbill

Thank you. Sounds simple enough.

S63BenzO

I saved time and didnt follow the steps on the WIS exactly. Rather than removing the belt and having to get underneath and deal with the tensioner and all that I just removed the 2 turbo pipes ( intake pipe and hot side turbo pipe) passenger side and I was able to get to the coolant line that way. May help you out.

Cifdig

although a good spot, it has its flaws . One being that it's spray in the coldest atmosphere in the entire engine, directing right at the intercooler fins where it will be fighting the methanol from atomizing faster even worse if your going to use 50/50 but at some point as the air is moving fast it does over come that situation and goes right through the throttle body . The second is how do you check for leaks? How do you change nozzle sizes to find the correct cc amount that will work with your power goals. For me not being able to check if a fuel line is leaking or not after the install and inspection is enough for me to say no. Just my opinion. But if all works perfectly this spot will work

Pitbill

i was wondering about leaks as well. How to install, mount, then check for leaks in a spot that you can’t really see? Do you have a picture of where your third nozzle is placed? Was it on top?

Cifdig

Can't get a better picture then this for details lol

Cifdig

Recently installed for a customer. Where he picked up a noticeable amount of power from mid to upper rpm with no additional hardware or revisions.

Pitbill

Great photo of placement. I don’t suppose you have any of your relocated IAT sensor? Also, when you moved the sensor did you fill in the old hole with something, an old sensor? or were you able to find a plug that would fill the hole?

Cifdig

I don't have a stock intercooler any longer so I did not need to relocate my sensor . I'll find a picture of where it will go . But it's not an easy task and requires the entire intake ti be removed. Unfortunately . If you follow my directions of the post for placement you will have the biggest gain and the easiest install vs the intake location which has less gains harder install

Pitbill

So just the pre turbo location on Blackboost tubes only without using a nozzle on the intake? I really do appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.

Cifdig

you can do the pre turbo on the factory grey pipes like the pictures I posted. Which is after the bb intakes right after the rubber coupler. It's the best spot . We gained 1 sec of a customers 60-130 with just our meth kit and using that location.

Before meth

With pre turbo meth. We are gaining 30-55 hp from the start of the spray until redline and the car just keeps pulling as apposed to dying off. Spraying 100% meth using using 600-850 cc depending your current setup and power levels. This car only has a stage 2 box tune now will be going for a revision

Pitbill

I’m installing a Blackboost next week so I will install my nozzles just as you did your customer’s just below the rubber coupler and see what happens. I’m running turbo bridge pipes, catless down pipes, and a Weistec stage 2 tune.

Siegmann

Impressive. Is there any drop in IAT when spraying pre-turbo?

S63BenzO

All 3 nozzles is definitely best you get all the same benefits of the preturbo location plus a little extra. These cars love pure meth and the need it do to the intercooler being in the engine bay. As Cifdig pointed out the draw back of not knowing it it leaks all the time kind of sucks but you can “test spray” the nozzles before you put your manifold back on to check this. If it doesn’t leak then it won’t leak later most likely as the nozzle on the charge cooler doesn’t move or get touch by anything. I’m doing all three locations myself but my car isn’t a daily.

Pitbill

Is the plastic the manifold is made out of thick enough to just drill and tap for a nozzle to thread into or are you using some type of bung mounted to it some way?

Cifdig

[QUOTE=Siegmann;8603722]Impressive. Is there any drop in IAT when spraying pre-turbo?

. The meth literally goes through everything. But since it slows down heat from where it's generated it improves the whole system. on average running 700cc you will see 10-20 degrees drop and a much slower temp rise that keeps the system more efficient. This is all dependent on how hot ambient temps are the cooler it is the more drastic the temp drop while the hotter it is obviously temps still drop but not as much. Unless you raise cc amount. It's giving a realistic temp reading as opposed to a fake reading with the meth nozzle next to the iat sensor. If you hardwire your intercooler pump to stay on constant you will improve the temps even further .much faster temp recovery and a much slower temp rise

BillWoeb

First off, many thanks to Cifdig who blazed the trail on WMI for M278/157!

He provided valuable guidance and insights so this work I am presenting is an extension of his efforts.

I installed the pre-turbo WMI just as he did, but where my efforts differ is the post IC WMI.

I didn’t want to remove the intake nor the IC so I designed (well, used the original intake manifold vacuum connector) a nozzle holder which snaps into place where the original intake vacuum port is.

I wanted an easily accessible, easily reversible system for the times I have to take the car to the dealer.

To replace the vacuum port function, I purchased a small plastic Jeep vacuum canister and t-eed in that to the HVAC vacuum port as well as the vacuum pump.

Then, using an OEM vacuum line assy, which connects the HVAC to intake vacuum port and vacuum pump, I cut off the connectors to expose the barbed ends and used some high temp fuel line and connected the pump, canister and HVAC together.

For the WMI - Using the intake port connector, I drilled from the top down (eliminating the integral one way valve) and tapped the very bottom of the connector, which goes into the intake port, with 1/8 -27 NPT.

I procured an AEM WMI injector set for 1000 cc/min (originally wanted and still want, the ProMeth 1” extended tip WMI injector but they are not available til later this year).

I threaded the injector down from the top of the connector and it makes a perfect tight seal.

Attached are some pictures of what I describe. I currently am running only the pre-turbo injectors (2 of the Snow performance #4, 250 mL/min) until I get my E50 tune done. Having the pre-IC injectors and the 1000 cc/min AEM injector makes the stock tune wayyyy laggy, while running just the pre-IC injectors really changes 4000 rpm on up even on the stock tune.

Take a look and let me know what you all think!

Bill

Cifdig

I am extremely grateful for the shout out. Set up looks clean . Would you mind if I have you some additional advice and what to change around a bit? Didn't want to just say without asking you

BillWoeb

Have at it! My retired brain needs more stimulation before it becomes baboon smooth lol

Cifdig

I figured it's best to use your pictures. Couple things I see that will make your kit much more efficient. As I've tried many different variables. Your nozzle placement is going to saturate your filter and you will not get the best from your set up. You need to move the nozzle to the green location I've circled. If you look at my old post even when I put my first nozzles higher it was not on the side you have them. And after a while I realized I was not getting all the meth inside so by moving it to the pipe I dramatically improved the system . Also 250-300 cc need ti be moved up. We are now up to 600-800 cc per turbo. And it's working flawlessly. Please change your lines to braided lines. This engine will egg shape your lines creating a leak that you will never find until it's to late. . Just some advice to help a fellow enthusiast, my post is not at all to make you seem like your kit is wrong . I really just want to make sure everyone enjoys the benefits of methanol but most of all as safe as possible. . Please if you have any questions or need to pick my brain while your making changes please don't hesitate to dm me .