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Have read through several brake replacement threads although haven't been able to find anything related to my question.
Pulled the car out of storage after almost eight months and had a few issues right off the back that have been resolved by my MB mechanic.
One thing that came up immediately was the brake pad wear notification and I can definitely feel they are rough and even a little pulsing.
My mechanic says I am in desperate need of new pads (no surprise) although he believes the rotors are still ok.
He did say that he recommends getting the rotors re-cut before putting the new pads on otherwise they would just chew them up (whatever that means).
They don'd do that in house so he said he would try and find someone that could do a good job for me.
Question is if that is recommended and/or necessary.
I ask bc in all the brake threads I have read I have never read anything about re-cutting the oem rotors. Either members doing a complete brake replacement or just replacing pads.
Incidentally I have never had to do brake work before.
These rotors are designed to be a one use rotor. I would not resurface them. Either they will take the new pads or you need new pads and rotors.
There is no such thing as chewing of anything if you switch pads only. However if your rotors are slightly warped or have hotspots on them, resurfacing can straighten them out at the expense of rotor thickness.
+1 these rotors are designed to be a single use rotors. But I will say, unless your rotors are cracking, heavily grooved and heat spotted, You can probably get another run with a set of pads out of them. I thought mine were done almost 10k miles ago (substantial lip) and ended up getting another 2 sets of cheap pads out of them. I however would not suggest doing that with expensive pads. That being said, Just about to replace them this coming week. If you're concerned with cost btw, the w211 E63 2 pieces are substantially cheaper than the stock 1.5 piece and look better IMO.
So anyone looking for the 2 piece P30 rotors. I got them for super cheap on ebay (link included below) I like many DIYers was skeptical of the quality and authenticity of this product. I admit it was a gamble but definitely seems to have paid off. The vents look authentic, the stamping on the rotors and imprinting on the outside of the rotor seems authentic, they came in a Brembo boxes. Basically, if these are knock offs, they are immaculate knock offs. Either way, I don't work for the company or have any skin in the game. Just wanted to share my results and try to help the community. And as you can see with my older rotors, I was in dire need, these helped stabilize the car substantially, I felt no difference in weight while holding them, although I believe the P30s are heavier than the P31s. I only felt a positive change in handling and stability, no change in acceleration. I have paired them with EBC Yellowstuff pads. I didn't like them on my previous vehicle but I'm being patient with the break in this time (250 miles so far) and they seem to be bedding in and gripping nicely when I've had to turn up the pressure on them. Oh and for the time being I've only replaced the fronts, intend to replace the rear pads with EBC Yellowstuff pads as well along with new DOT 5.1 fluid.
So anyone looking for the 2 piece P30 rotors. I got them for super cheap on ebay (link included below) I like many DIYers was skeptical of the quality and authenticity of this product. I admit it was a gamble but definitely seems to have paid off. The vents look authentic, the stamping on the rotors and imprinting on the outside of the rotor seems authentic, they came in a Brembo boxes. Basically, if these are knock offs, they are immaculate knock offs. Either way, I don't work for the company or have any skin in the game. Just wanted to share my results and try to help the community. And as you can see with my older rotors, I was in dire need, these helped stabilize the car substantially, I felt no difference in weight while holding them, although I believe the P30s are heavier than the P31s. I only felt a positive change in handling and stability, no change in acceleration. I have paired them with EBC Yellowstuff pads. I didn't like them on my previous vehicle but I'm being patient with the break in this time (250 miles so far) and they seem to be bedding in and gripping nicely when I've had to turn up the pressure on them. Oh and for the time being I've only replaced the fronts, intend to replace the rear pads with EBC Yellowstuff pads as well along with new DOT 5.1 fluid.
Damn those are pretty cheap,Nice find! Did you look into the rears yet?
The rears are stupid cheap, like $115/rotor at FCPEuro. So honestly, I'm completely Ok with that price :-) Although I have perused some sites looking for some 2 piece drilled and partially slotted rears with no success. I also was looking at the RS7s front rotors too. Their caliper looks similar, but I think the diameter is a little larger and depth is thinner than ours. Regardless, would be a nice change to see the wave rotors
Yeah the rear rotors are stupid cheap. I pondered only doing the Giro Discs in front and stock like replacements in back but the Giro Discs look so good...
Haha I completely agree, the two piece hardware is just gorgeous, you know what? Thinking on it, I may just get some Girodiscs for the rear to reduce that sprung weight on the rear wheels. Granted we're AWD, the rears get more power. IMO I think that would help acceleration more than fronts.
I've got these rotors sitting in my house and contemplating tackling this today.... I haven't been able to find much about removing the calipers but I'm guessing it's a two-bolt job, correct?
I did my pads all around about a month and a half ago but I really needed to do pads & rotors. (I tried to be cheap there a little)
Yep, 2-bolt job per caliper ignoring the small wiring bracket at three corners. On my '14 I needed a 19mm socket for the rears and a 21mm socket for the fronts. For the front be careful, the banjo bolt was close enough that I was able to loosen it with the ratchet when removing the caliper bolts. I had good luck hanging the caliper with a small bungie.
The sway bar end links were annoyingly in the way on my car, a flex head long 3/8" ratchet will come in handy. Also for the fronts do yourself a favor and turn the wheel away from the side you are working on to get more clearance.
It's an E10 External Torx to remove the wire bracket located on both rear calipers and the passenger front.
T30 Torx for the rotor retaining bolt.
PM me your email and I'll send you the workshop instructions I used.
@ CerBErusM113
So I'm assuming the you used the w211 front rotors to put on your w212 car? I have a 2015 e63s, and the brake warning came on the other day, wondering if this fits our car? I see in your description that you have a 2015 also...
On the ebay link you provided, when I put my car info on there, it says not-compatible, but I'm assuming that everything bolts up fine?
Sorry for the NOOB question! Long time lurker, first time poster!
@ CerBErusM113
So I'm assuming the you used the w211 front rotors to put on your w212 car? I have a 2015 e63s, and the brake warning came on the other day, wondering if this fits our car? I see in your description that you have a 2015 also...
On the ebay link you provided, when I put my car info on there, it says not-compatible, but I'm assuming that everything bolts up fine?
Sorry for the NOOB question! Long time lurker, first time poster!
Yeah I seen this also , it seems like there working fine on his car but what makes them not compatible, did you notice if there is a size difference in thickness?
@Sensiblepower and @10speed. I wrote a long explanation to this and honestly don't feel like trying to restate my previous post that got deleted? Regardless, All 63 AMGs share the same front rotors, unsure of the rears 100% but the fronts are interchangeable. These P30 2 piece rotors are the same ones that are on the C63 P30, as the P31 rotors on the C63 are the same that come on ours stock. Also, the P30 rotors for the C63 were the same ones that came on the 2007 (w211) - 2011 (w212) E63. And since they came on a w212 something tells me they didn't randomly change the wheel hub assembly so that it can fit P31s but not P30s when they have prior and were up until 2015 on the C63. And I wouldn't take eBay stores compatibility information on your car as credible. They just look up the part on the internet and go from there. But that being said, if you'd like to spend the $700-1000/rotor on the P31s or ~$2500 for pads and rotors up front at the dealership feel free :-)
@cerberusM113. THANK YOU!. I got those same front rotors off ebay, and got some R1 pads for the fronts. Went with the rear rotors from FCPeuro, and pagid rear pads...total cost for the parts approx $1100, and I have an Indy mechanic friend that charges $80/axle, so total about 1300, installed. (for me your mileage might vary with labor). My car is a 2015 E63 AMG S. Everything is working like normal! The dealer quoted me for 2900/fronts, and 2800/rears, total of $5700 @ dealer. Thank you for the savings of $4400!!!!
@cerberusM113. THANK YOU!. I got those same front rotors off ebay, and got some R1 pads for the fronts. Went with the rear rotors from FCPeuro, and pagid rear pads...total cost for the parts approx $1100, and I have an Indy mechanic friend that charges $80/axle, so total about 1300, installed. (for me your mileage might vary with labor). My car is a 2015 E63 AMG S. Everything is working like normal! The dealer quoted me for 2900/fronts, and 2800/rears, total of $5700 @ dealer. Thank you for the savings of $4400!!!!
Glad to hear it and glad I could help! 👍 Happy AMG times burning them up now 😀
Hey guys I just purchased a 2012 E63 non-PP with 55k miles still under CPO. Pads & rotors are going to be due in the next 5-10k miles according to my PPI and after reading this post it seems like I can also purchase these rotors for replacement on my car. I am all but ready to pull the trigger just looking to get some confirmation since your vehicles are 2015 MY and unsure if it matters that my car is non-P30. You guys did a great job in laying it in why it works just want to alleviate that last 1% of uncertainty. TIA for the help, long time member on W220 (S430) and W210 (E430) forums. Happy to finally be in the AMG club with the bi-turbo V8.
I also purchased a 2012 E63 (non performance pack) recently and have the same question. Will part 2194210212 work for the 2012 model year? I would assume yes, since CerBErusM113 put a link to them in the answers, but he has a newer facelift model so I want to be sure.
2015 Mercedes-Benz E 63 AMG®4Matic®5.5L V8 - Gas
2014 Mercedes-Benz E 63 AMG®4Matic®5.5L V8 - Gas
2013 Mercedes-Benz E 63 AMG®Base5.5L V8 - Gas
2012 Mercedes-Benz E 63 AMG®Base5.5L V8 - Gas
So, if CerBErusM113 bought and successfully installed the rotors he linked to (2194210212), then by process of elimination, yes, Tmarros, they will work on our 2012 cars.
At least that assessment makes sense to me at almost 1:30 in the morning after researching this for a few hours... :-)
Have read through several brake replacement threads although haven't been able to find anything related to my question.
Pulled the car out of storage after almost eight months and had a few issues right off the back that have been resolved by my MB mechanic.
One thing that came up immediately was the brake pad wear notification and I can definitely feel they are rough and even a little pulsing.
My mechanic says I am in desperate need of new pads (no surprise) although he believes the rotors are still ok.
He did say that he recommends getting the rotors re-cut before putting the new pads on otherwise they would just chew them up (whatever that means).
They don'd do that in house so he said he would try and find someone that could do a good job for me.
Question is if that is recommended and/or necessary.
I ask bc in all the brake threads I have read I have never read anything about re-cutting the oem rotors. Either members doing a complete brake replacement or just replacing pads.
Incidentally I have never had to do brake work before.
Thanks in advance
Machining of rotors are common practice if the disc thickness are big enough! The rotors has a minimum thickness u can't go below!
07-10-2018, 08:14 AM
