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Shortly after these lines fail, and they will fail, the heater hose fitting will be next. Ask me how I know... :-/
If you have to make any repairs (like replacing the block plugs that always leak oil) just preemptively replace these lines. As mentioned, just looking at them wrong or working in the area will facilitate their failure.
Hey Mikey, is the one in the red circle the block plug you talked about?
Originally Posted by vdubpower
can someone point these out in a pic, i want to have a look at mine
2012 car 58000 miles...3 months left on warrenty from new....eeeekk
Here’s a picture of the coolant pipes. They are attached to the water pump housing. Noticed the broken fitting in the green circle.
I have the exact same car and mileage. did you adapt the tranmission at the dealer? did it make a noticeable difference? i get a jerk whenever i shift gears its pretty intense although my passengers find it exhilirating I'm almost positive its not supposed to feel like that...
my turbo coolant pipes are fine right now but might do them as preventive maintenance I think that would be a great time to install turboback pipes because the wastegate on the stock turbos is very restrictive.
You have to use a star diag to perform the procedure, it guides you through the process. After adaptation the transmission shifted a lot more smoothly, there is still jerkiness when cold but that is normal for the most part.
Originally Posted by Forrest Gump 9
Hey Mikey, is the one in the red circle the block plug you talked about?
Here’s a picture of the coolant pipes. They are attached to the water pump housing. Noticed the broken fitting in the green circle.
Thanks for the pic, will double check that area on the next oil change.
I'm doing a DIY project on a 2012 CLS 550 to replace the cam tensioners and adding check valves to eliminate the cold start rattling but in the process the driver side turbo coolant hoses broke. I can't seem to figure out how to get the screw out that's holding the lines to the turbo. It's a pretty tight area, does the engine have to come out to replace these hoses or is a special tool needed?
I had recent done the check valve and tensioners as well as the driver side turbo coolant pipes the run from front of block to the turbo.
To access the torx on driver side turbo for the coolant pipes I had to remove motor mount bolts on driver side or side you are working on. Using a wood block I slowly jacked the engine up. Watching all pinch point along fire wall. Once high enough you are able to access torx. I used small 1/4 in socket.
But to access the lines in front the following is what I removed to make things easier.
Serpentine belt
Ribbed idler pulley and small smooth pulley on driver side
Thermostat housing and top hoses : drain some coolant prior
Also, there are two alumni piping running into the oil filter housing that will need to be un bolted and move aside to help access for removal and install on turbo coolant line.
Note: on my cls63 I noticed that the coolant lines running to the block use one mounting bolt but when i purchased lines from dealer. One of the lines that I had received had to mounting bolts and the fitting was a female fitting and not a male fitting with one mounting bolt that I had on my cls63.
When I went to the dealer with that problem then the tech explained to me that somewhere in the middle of that year they had switched the lines and that they were different so don't make the same mistake just bring the same or take a picture of the fittings or one or two mounting bolts that you have and get the right part.
I have added some photos that I had so happen to take.
Coolant lines driver side with the male fitting with 1 mounting bolt
with all mentioned above parts removed and with some moved around to help gain access to lines
picture of the line with the female fitting and 2 mount holes
So if you need this one here the Part# as well
If you need other part #s feel free to ask
As I have also replaced most of the plastic pieces related to coolant lines from driver side turbo to the coolant lines on top of motor in front of ecu because all those lines are plastic and due to the heat they become brittle and I found out the hard way by driving and those lines brake and coolant spilling everywhere. I ended up replacing what I could with brass tees and fittings as well as use one of the factory pieces that run into the block on top I also have the part number for that as well
Pics of the have to buy from factor part that bolts on top of the block where the coolant lines that split off and feed the intercooler these parts are like $3 each I bought 2 of them just to have on hand because this was the part that broke on me while I was driving
I just did this job as well. You could have removed the turbo bolt with a flat pivot short socket . And the oil lines come so that it can be moved at the bottom. Basically remove the heat exchangers and move it towards the driver side. I removed the front end because I was putting a new upgraded auxiliary radiator You should also do your water pump. Just makes sense while your in it
I just did this job as well. You could have removed the turbo bolt with a flat pivot short socket . And the oil lines come so that it can be moved at the bottom. Basically remove the heat exchangers and move it towards the driver side. I removed the front end because I was putting a new upgraded auxiliary radiator You should also do your water pump. Just makes sense while your in it
sorry to jump on so late to this thread, but Gl550 2013 with only 40k miles drivers side turbo coolant line leaking, looks straight forward enough to replace except where coolant aluminum line attaches to block. There is a set torx bolt I can see with a mirror and barely feel with my hand after sneaking through all the lines, any ideas to make removal and replacement of that bolt easier?
Thanks,
Joe
sorry to jump on so late to this thread, but Gl550 2013 with only 40k miles drivers side turbo coolant line leaking, looks straight forward enough to replace except where coolant aluminum line attaches to block. There is a set torx bolt I can see with a mirror and barely feel with my hand after sneaking through all the lines, any ideas to make removal and replacement of that bolt easier?
Thanks,
Joe
Most techs unbolt the left side engine mount and raise it up so it makes it easier to do. I always did them with a short socket and my electric ratchet, removed the bolt in place just fine.
Update, received the part 100.00 Literally one of the most difficult jobs I have tackled. Mine was leaking because the plastic nipple at the junction of the hose that is clamped to the aluminum tube broke. I hope this makes it easier for anyone else that tries. There is a main coolant line from the ac compressor that cannot be moved, but several smaller lines, a turbo oil sensor unscrew and remove, and a line leading to the coolant reservoir can be moved by disconnecting the cylinder attached to the reservoir. Once the lines are out of the way detaching the larger coolant line is simple, the smaller line has a tricky clamp but that is not so bad as well. Two torques bolts hold the plastic three way to the block/turbo easy enough. The torques bolt that holds the aluminum tube to the block was a bridge too far. I could see it with a mirror, and I could feel it with one finger, My hands are fat and maybe someone with small hands could get two fingers on it but even after moving the above mentioned lines I could not get two fingers on the bolt. I was able to get a very small socket and ratchet 1/4" driver on the bolt by using a very long extension clamped to the handle of the ratchet so I could hold the ratchet above the bolt while I guided it onto the bolt with the other hand. I was able to finally get the ratchet on the bolt but was afraid to remove the bolt for fear I could never install the new bolt with the limited access. I removed the pinch clamp on the upper portion of the existing hose and the same clamp on the new part. I used a Dremel cutting tool to cut through the clamp on the car. The broken nipple came out of the hose in pieces and I detached the small upper radiator line and placed a compressor to blow air into the system. This flushed coolant from the line with the broken nipple and hopefully cleared debris. I placed a stainless pinch clamp, then inserted the new nipple into the old hose still mounted on the car.
You have to come in from the front angling back from drivers side to passenger side to clamp the upper hose. No leaks now!!! obviously if your hose is bad this won't work.
Thanks,
Joe
They all break at that plastic part, too much heat for that material, sadly they won't change it, we just have to expect to replace them every 40k miles or so, maybe less depending on how that specific vehicle is used.
I would almost be willing to look into making an all metal replacement for that plastic block, would be a permanent solution.
They all break at that plastic part, too much heat for that material, sadly they won't change it, we just have to expect to replace them every 40k miles or so, maybe less depending on how that specific vehicle is used.
I would almost be willing to look into making an all metal replacement for that plastic block, would be a permanent solution.
sounds like something @VictoryRoadPerformance may be persuaded to do if there was enough interest
They all break at that plastic part, too much heat for that material, sadly they won't change it, we just have to expect to replace them every 40k miles or so, maybe less depending on how that specific vehicle is used.
I would almost be willing to look into making an all metal replacement for that plastic block, would be a permanent solution.
Thanks for chiming in here Joe, your experience and knowledge with these engines and sharing it with us, is always appreciated.
sounds like something @VictoryRoadPerformance may be persuaded to do if there was enough interest
It affects EVERY 278 and 157 engine at some point I believe, although it's usually the GL platform that has the issue at early mileage so that setup may be different, I haven't really looked into it.
Had mine replaced recently, all the lines were trashed. Decided to replace the thermostat and water pump while I was at it. My E63 does have nearly 100k on it so I'm surprised it didn't happen earlier especially since I live in a hot climate.
Most techs unbolt the left side engine mount and raise it up so it makes it easier to do. I always did them with a short socket and my electric ratchet, removed the bolt in place just fine.
Electric ratchet?
Mind telling which model fits in there?
Bought my 2013 E550 2 years and a few months ago. Mechanic who replaced the intercooler gasket had the driver side lines fail on him and changed them. It had 130k miles on it.
Fast forward today, at about 175k miles and the passenger side failed. I can say reaching that damn bolt is a lot of fun. None of my 3 1/4 ratchet would fit in even with a short socket that I buffer to make them shorter. Removed the fan, multiple hoses and was wondering how much pressure I can put on the aluminim fitting on the turbo side? It moved about 1/8" out using some light/medium prying while fiddling the line up and down, but it wouldn't pop out. I was slightly scared prying it more, not a mechanic, simply a DIY having fun trying to fix his daily driver
Well it's my turn for the %(@$*%@$&%@#*$@#(.............) cheesy Chrysler plastic fittings. Hard to believe a "Car engineered like no other" would put this type fitting in such a harsh environment with non-existent access. I just replaced the chain tensioners three weeks ago and had I known these engineered resin fittings were an issue I would have changed them while I was 1/2 way there. Forrest Gump, did you have luck fabricating a an all metal replacement?
Hi there, I am going through this right now, Turbo lines replaced then the bleed line let go, replaced those, next the coolant shut off valve at the back of the block broke. Problem I have now is that they stopped making that part and have replaced it with what they call a feed line part and dust cap for the harness as they have deleted the shutoff solenoid part. Do you know if the car will throw a code with the electrical capped off?
Does an extended warranty cover such an item? Seems crazy that this is going to have to be re-done ever 40k miles or so... I am really surprised there hasn't been someone that has made an all metal elbow or something that is fabbed up.
Things like this are what makes me wonder if buying a used e63s is smart...lol. I am sure the car would put a smile on my face but at the same time I don't always want to have in the back of my mind "what is going to break next".
just had this work done oil my 2013 SL 63. Dealer cost was $1013.45 approximately 5hrs labor
Parts were:
278-200-09-00 coolant line
278-200-02-00 coolant line
157-200-01-51 coolant line
027-997-06-45 o-ring
Vehicle has done 70k miles
Symptoms were pooling of coolant dripping under AC compressor area on garage floor after cooling down over night, was only evident when the vehicle had been fully warmed up and left to cool, so not sure if the pipe cracked and self sealed with heat and pressure as no coolant was obvious, or smell when engine was hot.
SL63 has considerably better access to the front of the engine than the GLS.
Hope this helps someone else, because this post helped me figure out what it was, and I opted to get it done rather than do myself.
Sorry to revive this thread from the dead but what are these 3 coolant pipes called? Know the part numbers for them?
I have a 2012 S550 with 125k miles and GREEN circled hose is leaking. I figured I should replace them all.
I read here to replace the water pump as well since I'll be getting this thing replaced. Is it necessary to also replace the thermostat too then?
Thank you!
11-09-2018, 02:38 PM
100.00 Literally one of the most difficult jobs I have tackled. Mine was leaking because the plastic nipple at the junction of the hose that is clamped to the aluminum tube broke. I hope this makes it easier for anyone else that tries. There is a main coolant line from the ac compressor that cannot be moved, but several smaller lines, a turbo oil sensor unscrew and remove, and a line leading to the coolant reservoir can be moved by disconnecting the cylinder attached to the reservoir. Once the lines are out of the way detaching the larger coolant line is simple, the smaller line has a tricky clamp but that is not so bad as well. Two torques bolts hold the plastic three way to the block/turbo easy enough. The torques bolt that holds the aluminum tube to the block was a bridge too far. I could see it with a mirror, and I could feel it with one finger, My hands are fat and maybe someone with small hands could get two fingers on it but even after moving the above mentioned lines I could not get two fingers on the bolt. I was able to get a very small socket and ratchet 1/4" driver on the bolt by using a very long extension clamped to the handle of the ratchet so I could hold the ratchet above the bolt while I guided it onto the bolt with the other hand. I was able to finally get the ratchet on the bolt but was afraid to remove the bolt for fear I could never install the new bolt with the limited access. I removed the pinch clamp on the upper portion of the existing hose and the same clamp on the new part. I used a Dremel cutting tool to cut through the clamp on the car. The broken nipple came out of the hose in pieces and I detached the small upper radiator line and placed a compressor to blow air into the system. This flushed coolant from the line with the broken nipple and hopefully cleared debris. I placed a stainless pinch clamp, then inserted the new nipple into the old hose still mounted on the car.
You have to come in from the front angling back from drivers side to passenger side to clamp the upper hose. No leaks now!!! obviously if your hose is bad this won't work. 
