When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Update. I removed the battery cables. Disconnect the rear auxiliary battery. And removed the ecu. Waited about 45 min plugged everything back up. Went for a ride then let it cool then started her up again went for a highway pull. Absolutely felt different. That insane tq feels as if it’s almost fully back. And now it shift extremely brutal again. So I’ll be going back to the track to see if it’s my butt dyno lying to me or if I’ll actually get a better time. Atleast low 11. If not that’s fine car still feels beast. And it will give me an excuse for a custome tune
Really happy the ECU suggestion worked out. At least so far.
FYI, I swap out my ECU’s more than I would like to. I have never needed to disconnect the battery(s). Tuners never do either when they disconnect them. Its really unecessary overkill. These ECU’s are diode protected against back EMF that occurs when disconnecting a power source. But dont come after me if something goes wrong. LOL! ! If you feel the need, do it. I am just trying to save you time and headache next time bud.
Again, I had a feeling about your ECU when you mentioned it was tuned. Hope the track drops a 10.9 ! !
wait: you have a code even after your new engine? Wouldn't the dealer tech have cleared this after the engine was tested and installed?
It was just an O2 sensor that had a weird “delayed reaction”. Not engine related. It came on about 2 days after I got the car back. I cleared it today and we will see if it returns. Worst case is they install a new O2 sensor. SA was not concerned at all. He even said it might clear on its own. I just sped it up a bit by clearing it.
I reported this up higher in this thread. Guess you missed it.
It was just an O2 sensor that had a weird “delayed reaction”. Not engine related. It came on about 2 days after I got the car back. I cleared it today and we will see if it returns. Worst case is they install a new O2 sensor. SA was not concerned at all. He even said it might clear on its own. I just sped it up a bit by clearing it.
I reported this up higher in this thread. Guess you missed it.
Hopefully you didnt pay more than about $92 delivered. If you have any questions when you use it at first, let me know. Help you if I can.
It is a nice unit though. Much more specific in detail than my former code reader. It is actually specialized for MB.
Good Luck
Vrod - glad you got rid of that code. Which model iCarsoft scanner do you have? I’ve had a super basic Actron scanner for several years that has worked fine for clearing codes. But if the one you have also allows you to eliminate the need to pull battery when you want to reset adaptations, that would be interesting to try and eliminate that ECU reset trick with the key in position 2 and press the pedal etc.
glad your Eva is alive and your having fun with her again!
Sorry for the late reply. I believe you might be confusing my comments about disconnecting the ECU without the need to disconnect the battery with the use of the iCarsoft reader for use to clear codes. I am not aware of anything the iCarsoft brings that will aid in not having to disconnect batteries. I do know that it is quite a bit more comprehensive in giving better descriptions of the various codes as it is specialized for MB models. All models.
Here is the model and Amazon page that I bought mine from. Looks like it went up a bit in price. I only paid about $92.
11-30-2018 | 10:29 PM
