Went to Atco. What’s your thoughts
11-27-2018, 01:59 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Went to Atco. What’s your thoughts
Went to Atco Dragway this past weekend. My 60foot was horrid. No matter what I tried I couldn’t do better then 1.8 1.9. For about a lil while now I felt as if my take off has diminished a bit and now possibly I realize that maybe my clutches are slipping at take off. I ran 11.501 at 124 mph. I’ll post my slip when I’m home later today. Seems I pick up Time mid to end. I brake boosted to 2700 pulled a 1.9 , then race start still pulled a 1.9 first race start pulled 1.8. During take off I can almost feel the tranny slipping then grabbing. There is no wheels spin friends watching agreed there wasn’t wheel spin either. Although I’m ok with the time I’m thinking of replacing clutches. I’m on just a tune and cat delete. I do have meth injection but was not running it .
11-27-2018, 02:21 PM
#2
Senior Member
Went to Atco Dragway this past weekend. My 60foot was horrid. No matter what I tried I couldn’t do better then 1.8 1.9. For about a lil while now I felt as if my take off has diminished a bit and now possibly I realize that maybe my clutches are slipping at take off. I ran 11.501 at 124 mph. I’ll post my slip when I’m home later today. Seems I pick up Time mid to end. I brake boosted to 2700 pulled a 1.9 , then race start still pulled a 1.9 first race start pulled 1.8. During take off I can almost feel the tranny slipping then grabbing. There is no wheels spin friends watching agreed there wasn’t wheel spin either. Although I’m ok with the time I’m thinking of replacing clutches. I’m on just a tune and cat delete. I do have meth injection but was not running it .
AMG put in some agressive tq limiters in first gear. Only company i know that claims to change them is Renntech for $2,500
Brake boosting is very hard on the clutches and builds alot of heat in the trans.
Might be the heat making them slip at the track..
Default way to check trans clutch slip is a low rpm 4th or 5th cruising (1,500rpm or 2K) and go FULL throttle while staying in gear.
11-27-2018, 02:48 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
I’m definitely aware of the tq limiters, but this feels like a slippage. So today during the rain I did a race start to see if I can get wheels to break or slip. It didn’t even set off the traction light �� and it gave me the same feed back. I’m going to try the 4th gear low to high pull but isn’t that a different clutch pack then race start and take off? I don’t know much in regards to these transmission but I was under the impression the clutches vary per gear
11-27-2018, 06:34 PM
#5
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11-27-2018, 07:16 PM
#6
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So I now have the latest tweaked ECU from them that should correct this. However, I cannot report on it yet as I am still gently breaking in this brand new motor.
My main point here is that your ECU may have done exactly what my first pass did and you didn't instantly notice as it occurs slowly over time.
If you have 2 ECU's, try running your stock one and see if it feels noticeably slower still.
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Savage212 (11-28-2018)
11-28-2018, 09:50 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
I don’t have 2 ecu’s but it’s funny with in the past 5 months I’ve noticed a diminish in take off and overall power . I was assuming it’s my clutch. Which I’m changing regardless in the spring. But I never gave thought to the timing in my tune adjusting. Can unplugging the ecu for a bit return it back to previous tune parameters or should I send it in and ask them to re apply the same tune.
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11-28-2018, 12:28 PM
#8
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I don’t have 2 ecu’s but it’s funny with in the past 5 months I’ve noticed a diminish in take off and overall power . I was assuming it’s my clutch. Which I’m changing regardless in the spring. But I never gave thought to the timing in my tune adjusting. Can unplugging the ecu for a bit return it back to previous tune parameters or should I send it in and ask them to re apply the same tune.
Good Luck.
11-28-2018, 03:22 PM
#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
You can certainly try unplugging it for at least 30 minutes. I found it was hit and miss doing that. Even if you try that though, I suspect you will not get all the way back to the power you first felt with the tune. Not sure who your tune is with, but you should be able to send it back and just make sure you give detailed specifics on what you are experiencing. And mention that you suspect it is pulling your timing back.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
11-28-2018, 06:11 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
You say clutch slipping like it's a regular manual trans clutch, and that's just not the case. I think you should have the car properly checked out before throwing a new MCT converter at it, but that's just me.
IF you put the car in dyno mode does it feel better? That will rule out ESP/TC intervention.
IF you put the car in dyno mode does it feel better? That will rule out ESP/TC intervention.
11-28-2018, 08:56 PM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
You say clutch slipping like it's a regular manual trans clutch, and that's just not the case. I think you should have the car properly checked out before throwing a new MCT converter at it, but that's just me.
IF you put the car in dyno mode does it feel better? That will rule out ESP/TC intervention.
IF you put the car in dyno mode does it feel better? That will rule out ESP/TC intervention.
I should probably know this, but how exacrly do you put it into dyno mode? Is it just turning traction control compltely off by holding down esp button for the 5 or 10 seconds?
Thanks.
11-28-2018, 11:30 PM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
No, have to go into the workshop menu like resetting the maintenance light, then it's in there. It turns everything off, including ABS, it's only there for testing purposes, but it will rule out electronic intervention. You won't be able to use race start, but your normal acceleration from a stop should be unaffected. If it still feels like it's slipping, I would check the adaptations of the trans and wet clutch.
11-29-2018, 03:20 AM
#13
Get a iCarsoft obd device (cheap and readily available). You can reset ECU, TCU and sometimes ESP on that device. Power comes back immediately. The ESP is part of the system IMO that is used for torque management.
In the meantime, do the throttle reset with the key and gas peddle dance
In the meantime, do the throttle reset with the key and gas peddle dance
11-29-2018, 12:20 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Get a iCarsoft obd device (cheap and readily available). You can reset ECU, TCU and sometimes ESP on that device. Power comes back immediately. The ESP is part of the system IMO that is used for torque management.
In the meantime, do the throttle reset with the key and gas peddle dance
In the meantime, do the throttle reset with the key and gas peddle dance
"O2 Sensor 1, cylinder bank 1, delayed reaction" It gives me the option to clear it, but when I press the clear button, it comes back and says unsuccessful. CEL stays on.
Is there some trick I am missing?
11-29-2018, 12:22 PM
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
No, have to go into the workshop menu like resetting the maintenance light, then it's in there. It turns everything off, including ABS, it's only there for testing purposes, but it will rule out electronic intervention. You won't be able to use race start, but your normal acceleration from a stop should be unaffected. If it still feels like it's slipping, I would check the adaptations of the trans and wet clutch.
11-29-2018, 01:29 PM
#16
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
I have the latest iCarsoft and I can't get it to even clear the CEL on my stock ECU for the following:
"O2 Sensor 1, cylinder bank 1, delayed reaction" It gives me the option to clear it, but when I press the clear button, it comes back and says unsuccessful. CEL stays on.
Is there some trick I am missing?
"O2 Sensor 1, cylinder bank 1, delayed reaction" It gives me the option to clear it, but when I press the clear button, it comes back and says unsuccessful. CEL stays on.
Is there some trick I am missing?
Last edited by PeterUbers; 11-29-2018 at 01:32 PM.
11-29-2018, 01:38 PM
#17
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You know you are only about 2000 more posts away from "out of control" status!! lol You will be among a small community at that point.
I have about 68 to get to "MB Fanatic" and then another 9000 to "out of control" Don't see myself reaching that in this lifetime!
11-29-2018, 04:19 PM
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
I reset the tcu every two months
this should be the first thing you do at the track
this should be the first thing you do at the track
11-29-2018, 04:21 PM
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Thanks PeteR,
You know you are only about 2000 more posts away from "out of control" status!! lol You will be among a small community at that point.
I have about 68 to get to "MB Fanatic" and then another 9000 to "out of control" Don't see myself reaching that in this lifetime!
You know you are only about 2000 more posts away from "out of control" status!! lol You will be among a small community at that point.
I have about 68 to get to "MB Fanatic" and then another 9000 to "out of control" Don't see myself reaching that in this lifetime!
dont forget that your posts are extremely helpful to the community and very informative ... keep posting!!!
11-29-2018, 10:23 PM
#20
I have the latest iCarsoft and I can't get it to even clear the CEL on my stock ECU for the following:
"O2 Sensor 1, cylinder bank 1, delayed reaction" It gives me the option to clear it, but when I press the clear button, it comes back and says unsuccessful. CEL stays on.
Is there some trick I am missing?
"O2 Sensor 1, cylinder bank 1, delayed reaction" It gives me the option to clear it, but when I press the clear button, it comes back and says unsuccessful. CEL stays on.
Is there some trick I am missing?
Also do it with ignition on, but might take cycling of the ignition to get the cel to clear
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Vrodman (11-30-2018)
11-30-2018, 12:24 PM
#21
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Yoi have to make sure you are picking the correct w212 version on there. I use one option to reset TCU and the other to reset ECU. I cannot reset both with one of the w212s on there.
Also do it with ignition on, but might take cycling of the ignition to get the cel to clear
Also do it with ignition on, but might take cycling of the ignition to get the cel to clear
I noticed there are two choices for the E63 model in the setup. One is like 174 or something like that. I did have engine running when I tried to clear it. Should the engine be off with only the ignition on? I can go back and try the other option for E63 and see if that clears it too. I will also try it more than once as you suggest.
Thanks
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Vrodman (11-30-2018)
11-30-2018, 09:45 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Update. I removed the battery cables. Disconnect the rear auxiliary battery. And removed the ecu. Waited about 45 min plugged everything back up. Went for a ride then let it cool then started her up again went for a highway pull. Absolutely felt different. That insane tq feels as if it’s almost fully back. And now it shift extremely brutal again. So I’ll be going back to the track to see if it’s my butt dyno lying to me or if I’ll actually get a better time. Atleast low 11. If not that’s fine car still feels beast. And it will give me an excuse for a custome tune
11-30-2018, 10:07 PM
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Pedal dance tcu reset before every drag day ftmfw!!
11-30-2018, 10:18 PM
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Update. I removed the battery cables. Disconnect the rear auxiliary battery. And removed the ecu. Waited about 45 min plugged everything back up. Went for a ride then let it cool then started her up again went for a highway pull. Absolutely felt different. That insane tq feels as if it’s almost fully back. And now it shift extremely brutal again. So I’ll be going back to the track to see if it’s my butt dyno lying to me or if I’ll actually get a better time. Atleast low 11. If not that’s fine car still feels beast. And it will give me an excuse for a custome tune
