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Just did mine. Elected to cut the control wire instead of splice. I would expect an open circuit code instead of a short circuit code. Hopefully the code is silent and doesn't bother anything. I haven't driven yet but I know it works because as soon as I closed the hood I heard the pump come on for a minute or so.
The irony is my E55 had this mod and I put it back to stock. Of course on those the pump comes on as soon as the supercharger engages and stays on until you come to a stop again which is more sensible than the E63S.
No CEL as promised by the thread. Not even a pending code or anything. Just a silent code. I assume it would pass a plug-in emissions test this way.
Can confirm temps stay a lot lower, closer to ambient while driving/moving. I think I saw less than 10F for a while. The slower you go, the higher they creep. In slow traffic it crept up to probably 40F over ambient but even 20 mph starts to bring it down. Not sure how the fan or fan control situation impacts IATs when not moving. I guess I don't even know where the front heat exchanger is located...
My pump may be original at 99k so I guess time will tell if this kills it or not. I'll report back when I have the room to do some pulls and see how it behaves. I expect good results.
Posted a DIY video on this. I've done it to both my cars as I've mentioned in this thread, I definitely think it makes the car feel much more consistent
Posted a DIY video on this. I've done it to both my cars as I've mentioned in this thread, I definitely think it makes the car feel much more consistent
'08 CLK320CDI AMG// '13 E500 Coupe AMG// '17 E350d AMG
Originally Posted by maxusa
Arguably, the "proper" way to control the IC pump is by a controller, which is driven by the IC coolant temperature and some logic. In locations where temps never drop much (below freezing), hardwiring the IC pump may be acceptable. Once you run into -20C ambient, and the always-on IC pump drops another -20C, you can dangerously approach coolant refreeze. A controller + manual switch is probably the best of both worlds: automatic intelligent temp and manual override during the runs. Mind you, when you are queuing, you may also want to force air across the IC HEs. This means turning on the main fan in addition to the IC pump. I know of one such controller that can do both - tinyCWA by Tecomotive.
I have one tinyCWA controller that I bought a while back and never used it.
Could be a good use in this MOD.
Any ideas how to connect it and control it ?
Other nice thing about IC pump mod is that it stays running (ic pump) after the car is off, until several electronic systems go to sleep. I suppose this is nice to cool engine parts (in addition to popping the hood) particularly after spirited driving. 🤷🏼♂️
We had few threads lately talking about rewiring the intercooler pump to run all the time, however not many showed real world results/comparison to stock.
My car is not stock, however cruising/regular driving Intake Air Temperature (IAT's) shouldn't be off by much regardless of which tune you're running on the same car.
I cant thank @brutus_tx enough for his help, been wanting to do this for a while and his post just encouraged me and showed me how easy this was. It literally took me 10-15 minutes to do this, and now it can be done in probably 5 minutes.
Scrolling down to post# 24 of this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...rket-mods.html@brutus_tx shows how he rewired his, while this looks super simple I'm sure it took a lot of time to research it, and not to mention having the guts to be the first one to ground a wire out of a harness, I'd be worried which fuse is gonna blow the second I start it lol
For those who dont know, our stock intercooler pump is always off, it turns on when IAT's reach 43°C=109.4°F (ish, give or take). This hurts a lot when driving the car aggressively or doing one pull after another. By the time the intercooler pump kicks in and cycles the water back into the core your race/pull is done and you suffered a decent decrease in performance due to hotter air. IAT's are MUCH worse than stock when tuned, specially stage 2.
On my personal car with a stage 2 tune, colder plugs gapped at 0.022, high flow filters, intake spacers, 94 octane after few pulls I was seeing IATs as high as 65-70°C=150-160°F when I'm at full boost. Yesterday was 15°C=60°F outside, driving around I was hitting IAT's of 19-22°C=66-72°F. Driving it hard and pull after another, I didnt see much over 38°C=100°F.
I didn't do a full datalog yet, however I can see MASSIVE drop in my IAT's while cruising and hard driving, I will log tonight to see the difference between stock configuration vs running all the time in a 4th gear pull.
You wanna tap and ground the Brown/Blue wire going into the relay below, this works on Facelift cars only, pre facelift dont have this relay, its most likely hidden somewhere else.
I did things slightly different than @brutus_tx, I pulled the yellow insulator out and inserted the wire into the relay, this way I dont have to cut into the stock harness and things look stock-ish if I need to visit the dealer.
Run the wire to the grounding point right next to the relay (picture below thanks to @brutus_tx again)
You need a wire thats like 4-5" long, add a ring terminal at one end and a bit of solder on the other end. Adding a bit of solder helps while squeezing the wire into the yellow insulator after taking it out, dont try inserting it while its in, its super tight.
This was last night, I never did see 45°C=113°F (which what shows under highest value). However when the car starts its at 45°C=113°F and start dropping down quickly. I noticed IATs are usually ~10°C/18°F over ambient.
IATs are alot higher when idling, the minute the car starts moving and air flows into the heat exchanger you can see notice the drop. I will post a video later on tonight.
how do you get this information on infotainment? Is this possible on 2015 e63s? What screen/company did you go with?
We had few threads lately talking about rewiring the intercooler pump to run all the time, however not many showed real world results/comparison to stock.
My car is not stock, however cruising/regular driving Intake Air Temperature (IAT's) shouldn't be off by much regardless of which tune you're running on the same car.
I cant thank @brutus_tx enough for his help, been wanting to do this for a while and his post just encouraged me and showed me how easy this was. It literally took me 10-15 minutes to do this, and now it can be done in probably 5 minutes.
Scrolling down to post# 24 of this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...rket-mods.html@brutus_tx shows how he rewired his, while this looks super simple I'm sure it took a lot of time to research it, and not to mention having the guts to be the first one to ground a wire out of a harness, I'd be worried which fuse is gonna blow the second I start it lol
For those who dont know, our stock intercooler pump is always off, it turns on when IAT's reach 43°C=109.4°F (ish, give or take). This hurts a lot when driving the car aggressively or doing one pull after another. By the time the intercooler pump kicks in and cycles the water back into the core your race/pull is done and you suffered a decent decrease in performance due to hotter air. IAT's are MUCH worse than stock when tuned, specially stage 2.
On my personal car with a stage 2 tune, colder plugs gapped at 0.022, high flow filters, intake spacers, 94 octane after few pulls I was seeing IATs as high as 65-70°C=150-160°F when I'm at full boost. Yesterday was 15°C=60°F outside, driving around I was hitting IAT's of 19-22°C=66-72°F. Driving it hard and pull after another, I didnt see much over 38°C=100°F.
I didn't do a full datalog yet, however I can see MASSIVE drop in my IAT's while cruising and hard driving, I will log tonight to see the difference between stock configuration vs running all the time in a 4th gear pull.
You wanna tap and ground the Brown/Blue wire going into the relay below, this works on Facelift cars only, pre facelift dont have this relay, its most likely hidden somewhere else.
I did things slightly different than @brutus_tx, I pulled the yellow insulator out and inserted the wire into the relay, this way I dont have to cut into the stock harness and things look stock-ish if I need to visit the dealer.
Run the wire to the grounding point right next to the relay (picture below thanks to @brutus_tx again)
You need a wire thats like 4-5" long, add a ring terminal at one end and a bit of solder on the other end. Adding a bit of solder helps while squeezing the wire into the yellow insulator after taking it out, dont try inserting it while its in, its super tight.
This was last night, I never did see 45°C=113°F (which what shows under highest value). However when the car starts its at 45°C=113°F and start dropping down quickly. I noticed IATs are usually ~10°C/18°F over ambient.
IATs are alot higher when idling, the minute the car starts moving and air flows into the heat exchanger you can see notice the drop. I will post a video later on tonight.
Fantastic work and major credit to @SAMzE63s! Thanks for sharing this with all of us
I thought it was 113F/45C based on scan tool playing. I have mine rewired, too, but wish I did a more sophisticated job so I could throw a switch to turn it back to stock in the cold weather season (it's off the road as of this week anyway).
I thought it was 113F/45C based on scan tool playing. I have mine rewired, too, but wish I did a more sophisticated job so I could throw a switch to turn it back to stock in the cold weather season (it's off the road as of this week anyway).
I found a simple on/off push button switch that is in the added ground wire for that.
I found a simple on/off push button switch that is in the added ground wire for that.
Yeah but rather than jam the wire into the plug, I cut it. So I get an open circuit code instead of short to ground code. I would need, I guess, a double pole switch to simultaneously disconnect my ground wire, and reconnect the control wire to the plug wire.
Or I could do your way. Reconnect the wires I cut, then splice in the ground. Install a simple switch on that ground wire.
I thought it was 113F/45C based on scan tool playing. I have mine rewired, too, but wish I did a more sophisticated job so I could throw a switch to turn it back to stock in the cold weather season (it's off the road as of this week anyway).
I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that 45C was the temp, and it's also what I measured mine turning on at with HPTuners
Yeah but rather than jam the wire into the plug, I cut it. So I get an open circuit code instead of short to ground code. I would need, I guess, a double pole switch to simultaneously disconnect my ground wire, and reconnect the control wire to the plug wire.
Or I could do your way. Reconnect the wires I cut, then splice in the ground. Install a simple switch on that ground wire.
Did the mod using a spare trickle charger harness following @kenneyd method, quite straightforward.
Broke one of the latches on relay cover, it holds with just one, but zip tied just in case.
04-30-2023, 10:52 AM
