2014 E63S starting issues
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
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From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
2014 E63S starting issues
Need some help figuring this out. Both main and auxillary batteries were replaced at 89k miles currently at 93k. Few day's ago car started weak but did crank and now just clicking and not cranking. I jumped it and drove for about an hour and will test the batteries on Monday but could this be a sign of a bad Alternator?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Member
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 91
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2014 E63 AMG
The fact you drove it an hour after jumping it, makes me think it is not the alternator. If it was faulty, you probably would have run out of battery pretty quickly, but it could be an intermittent issue. Most auto parts stores can run a diagnostic on the battery and alternator. I would do that to rule in or out the charging system. If they rule it out, then you could have a slow battery drain somewhere. Maybe a sensor not shutting off.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Jun 2004
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
Need some help figuring this out. Both main and auxillary batteries were replaced at 89k miles currently at 93k. Few day's ago car started weak but did crank and now just clicking and not cranking. I jumped it and drove for about an hour and will test the batteries on Monday but could this be a sign of a bad Alternator?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 310
From: NYC
E63S
How long ago did you replace batteries? Time wise. Batteries usually last ~3 yrs. Some times you get lucky and they will last you 2Xs as long, but it's not a guarantee. Also, if you drive the car seldom and then driving short distances does not help. This is my case and that's why I plug in a battery tender after every short drive (Especially during the summer. You hear those cooling fans going long after you shut off the car) and when the cars sits for a week or so.... just to help the issue, This does not guarantee the battery will last forever either.
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From: Bay Area, California
2015 E63s AMG, 2020 GLC 43 AMG
Could also be alternator. Easy to test. Put a volt meter on your battery terminals without engine running. Should be around 12.8 volts roughly. Then start the engine and measure voltage. Should. be around 14 volts if alternator is working.
Good luck.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
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From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
could be this for sure. MB came to my house and replaced a battery under warranty. Battery was dead 2 weeks later.
Could also be alternator. Easy to test. Put a volt meter on your battery terminals without engine running. Should be around 12.8 volts roughly. Then start the engine and measure voltage. Should. be around 14 volts if alternator is working.
Good luck.
Could also be alternator. Easy to test. Put a volt meter on your battery terminals without engine running. Should be around 12.8 volts roughly. Then start the engine and measure voltage. Should. be around 14 volts if alternator is working.
Good luck.
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Joined: Jun 2019
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From: NC
2014 e63s, 2018 GLS550
I had a similar problem about a year ago. Car would start the next day, but the battery would be dead if it sat for more than 24 hours. Battery and alternator were fine. There was obviously a parasitic draw. Took forever to figure it out, but the electronic ignition switch (EIS) module had gone bad. It just refused to shut off even after shutting off the engine and removing the key, so the car defaulted to thinking the key was in and never went to sleep and would constantly draw around 6 amps. None of the dash lights would turn on or give any external signs that the car was actively draining the battery.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
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From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
I had a similar problem about a year ago. Car would start the next day, but the battery would be dead if it sat for more than 24 hours. Battery and alternator were fine. There was obviously a parasitic draw. Took forever to figure it out, but the electronic ignition switch (EIS) module had gone bad. It just refused to shut off even after shutting off the engine and removing the key, so the car defaulted to thinking the key was in and never went to sleep and would constantly draw around 6 amps. None of the dash lights would turn on or give any external signs that the car was actively draining the battery.
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E63
How long ago did you replace batteries? Time wise. Batteries usually last ~3 yrs. Some times you get lucky and they will last you 2Xs as long, but it's not a guarantee. Also, if you drive the car seldom and then driving short distances does not help. This is my case and that's why I plug in a battery tender after every short drive (Especially during the summer. You hear those cooling fans going long after you shut off the car) and when the cars sits for a week or so.... just to help the issue, This does not guarantee the battery will last forever either.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
I had a similar problem about a year ago. Car would start the next day, but the battery would be dead if it sat for more than 24 hours. Battery and alternator were fine. There was obviously a parasitic draw. Took forever to figure it out, but the electronic ignition switch (EIS) module had gone bad. It just refused to shut off even after shutting off the engine and removing the key, so the car defaulted to thinking the key was in and never went to sleep and would constantly draw around 6 amps. None of the dash lights would turn on or give any external signs that the car was actively draining the battery.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,225
Likes: 6,902
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Low ⚡
These cars feature Bosch smart charging that manages alternator dynamically from 12.6 to 14.9V... it is great!
The problem starts when buggy computers go nuts and drain the battery below 12v down into 11v territory while driving! At that point problems and various error messages can pile up due to CAN modules glitching...
Once computers are in limbo they don't work or sleep too well. The temporary solution is simple: disconnect both batteries for 10mn to reboot your car.
Between drives try to charge/float your main battery with a smart charger like CTEK or an OEM branded unit. Do this as often as practical to prevent charging currents reaching 80Amps while driving...
I gathered this knowledge in the non-AMG W212 forum. Hopefully this will prevent limp-modes and unnecessary battery swaps.
More power to y'all
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
Are you familiar with the "engineering menu" on the dash?? Its a hidden way to display your main battery vitals while driving.
These cars feature Bosch smart charging that manages alternator dynamically from 12.6 to 14.9V... it is great!
The problem starts when buggy computers go nuts and drain the battery below 12v down into 11v territory while driving! At that point problems and various error messages can pile up due to CAN modules glitching...
Once computers are in limbo they don't work or sleep too well. The temporary solution is simple: disconnect both batteries for 10mn to reboot your car.
Between drives try to charge/float your main battery with a smart charger like CTEK or an OEM branded unit. Do this as often as practical to prevent charging currents reaching 80Amps while driving...
I gathered this knowledge in the non-AMG W212 forum. Hopefully this will prevent limp-modes and unnecessary battery swaps.
More power to y'all
These cars feature Bosch smart charging that manages alternator dynamically from 12.6 to 14.9V... it is great!
The problem starts when buggy computers go nuts and drain the battery below 12v down into 11v territory while driving! At that point problems and various error messages can pile up due to CAN modules glitching...
Once computers are in limbo they don't work or sleep too well. The temporary solution is simple: disconnect both batteries for 10mn to reboot your car.
Between drives try to charge/float your main battery with a smart charger like CTEK or an OEM branded unit. Do this as often as practical to prevent charging currents reaching 80Amps while driving...
I gathered this knowledge in the non-AMG W212 forum. Hopefully this will prevent limp-modes and unnecessary battery swaps.
More power to y'all
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
Are you familiar with the "engineering menu" on the dash?? Its a hidden way to display your main battery vitals while driving.
These cars feature Bosch smart charging that manages alternator dynamically from 12.6 to 14.9V... it is great!
The problem starts when buggy computers go nuts and drain the battery below 12v down into 11v territory while driving! At that point problems and various error messages can pile up due to CAN modules glitching...
Once computers are in limbo they don't work or sleep too well. The temporary solution is simple: disconnect both batteries for 10mn to reboot your car.
Between drives try to charge/float your main battery with a smart charger like CTEK or an OEM branded unit. Do this as often as practical to prevent charging currents reaching 80Amps while driving...
I gathered this knowledge in the non-AMG W212 forum. Hopefully this will prevent limp-modes and unnecessary battery swaps.
More power to y'all
These cars feature Bosch smart charging that manages alternator dynamically from 12.6 to 14.9V... it is great!
The problem starts when buggy computers go nuts and drain the battery below 12v down into 11v territory while driving! At that point problems and various error messages can pile up due to CAN modules glitching...
Once computers are in limbo they don't work or sleep too well. The temporary solution is simple: disconnect both batteries for 10mn to reboot your car.
Between drives try to charge/float your main battery with a smart charger like CTEK or an OEM branded unit. Do this as often as practical to prevent charging currents reaching 80Amps while driving...
I gathered this knowledge in the non-AMG W212 forum. Hopefully this will prevent limp-modes and unnecessary battery swaps.
More power to y'all
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,225
Likes: 6,902
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
... need more data!
this looks pretty normal. ECU is busy recharging as quick as possible the main battery that needs it.
While this is not abnormal when ECU backs off higher voltage down to 13.x it then realize that more would be better and gets back to 14.9V.
The missing data is the battery current.
Is the battery being charged at 3Amps, 20A or 80A? That is an indication of how discharged it was.
Furthermore what happens after the 13.7 and the 12.6... 11.x? With what current 10, 20, 30 or 80A when ECU quits calibration cycle?
Typically you want to see battery charge currents staying low as high currents are an indication of a highly discharged battery.
While this is not abnormal when ECU backs off higher voltage down to 13.x it then realize that more would be better and gets back to 14.9V.
The missing data is the battery current.
Is the battery being charged at 3Amps, 20A or 80A? That is an indication of how discharged it was.
Furthermore what happens after the 13.7 and the 12.6... 11.x? With what current 10, 20, 30 or 80A when ECU quits calibration cycle?
Typically you want to see battery charge currents staying low as high currents are an indication of a highly discharged battery.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 14, 2021 at 03:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
Hi guys,
I wanted to update you regarding the starting issues. I brought my car to a local MB dealer and they did a full diagnosis and ultimately was the main battery in the engine bay. Previous owner had installed a WorldSource Battery which I never heard of and tried to do some research and funny as it seems I can't seem to find the price for these batteries. Out of curiosity I'm going to contact them tomorrow and find out more info. Meanwhile this simple problem wound up costing $785 for battery and diagnosis....lol
I really do hope this was the final verdict. Not sure if some of you may heard of this battery but I have never.
I wanted to update you regarding the starting issues. I brought my car to a local MB dealer and they did a full diagnosis and ultimately was the main battery in the engine bay. Previous owner had installed a WorldSource Battery which I never heard of and tried to do some research and funny as it seems I can't seem to find the price for these batteries. Out of curiosity I'm going to contact them tomorrow and find out more info. Meanwhile this simple problem wound up costing $785 for battery and diagnosis....lol
I really do hope this was the final verdict. Not sure if some of you may heard of this battery but I have never.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,225
Likes: 6,902
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Hi guys,
I wanted to update you regarding the starting issues. I brought my car to a local MB dealer and they did a full diagnosis and ultimately was the main battery in the engine bay. Previous owner had installed a WorldSource Battery which I never heard of and tried to do some research and funny as it seems I can't seem to find the price for these batteries. Out of curiosity I'm going to contact them tomorrow and find out more info. Meanwhile this simple problem wound up costing $785 for battery and diagnosis....lol
I really do hope this was the final verdict. Not sure if some of you may heard of this battery but I have never.
I wanted to update you regarding the starting issues. I brought my car to a local MB dealer and they did a full diagnosis and ultimately was the main battery in the engine bay. Previous owner had installed a WorldSource Battery which I never heard of and tried to do some research and funny as it seems I can't seem to find the price for these batteries. Out of curiosity I'm going to contact them tomorrow and find out more info. Meanwhile this simple problem wound up costing $785 for battery and diagnosis....lol
I really do hope this was the final verdict. Not sure if some of you may heard of this battery but I have never.
I am curious, do you use ECO much at red lights?
I wonder if ECO usage is linked with reduced battery life .
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
I just cannot believe it. What did they do? Was an MB stealership? Or Bentley ?. Some here may want to know, so not to take our cars there
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 2,528
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
If you keep it long enough, the battery will fail again. If you are a Sam's member, they can test the battery health with the Midtronics ( MB approved ) tester for free. Then buy it from your preferred supplier.
I think Battery plus store also uses Midtronics as standard equipment.
I think Battery plus store also uses Midtronics as standard equipment.
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Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Los Angeles
2024 GLE63s, 2021 E63s, 2018 GLC43
Group 49 or H8 AGM batteries are around $170-220 from your favorite auto parts store or bulk club store, mostly all made by Johnson Controls and custom labelled for each retailer. World Source seems to be the label for Advance Auto Parts. So the "genuine" MB battery wasn't too marked up in price, but the install labor and diagnostics was killer.
Last edited by taphil; Nov 23, 2021 at 11:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
2019 E63S
Thanks and I always keep ECO off as I do not like the engine constantly turning on and off especially in my area with a lot of traffic.
