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Hello guys looking for tips and help on what could be done plz
had the mechanic get to inspect the cylinders and he said that Cylinder 1 had extreme scoring and Cylinder 2 had some scoring plz find the attachments
Car has 57k miles
Car now has weistec stage 1 tune and car had always had Renntech stage 1 I think since its bought from the dealer
always used Chevron 91octane
Thanks In Advance..
I guss bended rod.. all boosted m157 bending rods..it is matter of time... Back to stock if not giving missfire enjoy..driving stock... if want to boosted.. get ready build engine.. 20 30 k... good luck..
I am due on the oil change right now so please suggest me the best oil regardless of what I will do with car
I would order a Blackstone kit and get your oil checked out and see if there is any glitter in the filter/oil. You can try running ceratac after the oil change to see if it helps, but sounds like you on borrowed time till it locks up with the misfires
Above is my recent Blackstone oil report from about 300 miles ago. This engine currently has 31k, a eurocharged s2 pump gas tune since 19k. I have been using liquid moly 5w40 since 15k and use ceratec every 3rd oil change. This is also on 3,000 mile oil changes (which many dispute is a waste and way to soon), but I am fine with it as my car see's about 5-7k miles per year. You can clearly see high levels of molybdenum in the oil from using the certac on the last oil change prior to this one.
Keep doing those reports and as we all know of our beloved M157’s we keep a close eye on alum and silicon of our silitec cylinder liners, to give us a good idea of wear and whats happening. I assume this is liqui moly leichtlauf high tech 5w40?
Oil samples is really a must for all M157’s owners
Keep doing those reports and as we all know of our beloved M157’s we keep a close eye on alum and silicon of our silitec cylinder liners, to give us a good idea of wear and whats happening. I assume this is liqui moly leichtlauf high tech 5w40?
Oil samples is really a must for all M157’s owners
these are the current pictures and the guys suggested me to do an oil change for next 3k to 5k miles and get the cylinders checked again to,see any changes….
A lot of carbon build up on the piston dome. Injected fuel will soak it up and create an even leaner burn. Meaning temps will rise in that particular cylinder.
Can always start to do a blackstone oil analysis every oil change, its cheap and gives a great idea and trend ( once you havve a few reports and oil changes) of how the engine is wearing and what's happening.
Frequent oil changes, no long idling warm ups and slow routine to operating temp will go a long way.
can you explain what you mean by no long idling warm ups. I let my car get to 160 degrees and then im in traffic for a few minutes before getting to thruway. Before going on thruway i see temps of 180. As soon as i get on the thruway my oil temp goes under 159 degrees.
can you explain what you mean by no long idling warm ups. I let my car get to 160 degrees and then im in traffic for a few minutes before getting to thruway. Before going on thruway i see temps of 180. As soon as i get on the thruway my oil temp goes under 159 degrees.
is this bad for the engine?
NO If the car idles until it's all toasty inside in Ottawa in January, or the cooling fans start coming on, then that's too long.
2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
Originally Posted by EckFe1
A lot of carbon build up on the piston dome. Injected fuel will soak it up and create an even leaner burn. Meaning temps will rise in that particular cylinder.
One of the few correct answers in the entire thread. But its maybe still not quite right (well maybe in that cars case) but imo....
If you know what to look for and how to check/monitor fuel dose cars with mileage ranging from 100k km to 200k km and after verifying the injectors, 50% of them need to be replaced. when the injector is worn out/carboned, the fuel dose decreases and the temperature in the chamber increases, which is why cylinder scratches occur.
Thing is its tricky because you need to both endoscope the cylinder for signs of bore wear and its position as bent rods will be on the opposite surfaces to injector issues which will show first on the long sides of the piston skirt/cylinder wall. And when injector fuel dose decreases it can also be caused by other stuff in general engine running so it isnt a be all and end all method to deduce which injectors to replace. Ultimately sending them off testing is probably the only proper diagnosis.
Last edited by austingtir; Jan 11, 2024 at 09:10 PM.
I've been doing a lot of reading on the bore scoring issues on the M157 over the last few months, mostly because I've been considering a tune (likely Weistec) on my stock 2016 E63S wagon w/ 45K miles on it. FWIW, I bought it with 33K miles on it and it's my DD and will see approximately 20K miles a year (probably 75% of those miles being highway miles). It has lived and will continue to live a pretty easy life, with spirited passing a couple of times a week and a few WOT pulls a month. It's not a weekend toy or Mexico-racer in the evenings... it hauls my family and my work equipment around most of the time, while hauling a little *** here and there too!
But whhile I had the air intakes off a couple of weekends ago (installing new air filters) I decided to go ahead and pull the plugs for #1 and #5, since those often times seem to be the biggest culprits for problems, and take a peak inside with my borescope. The short version is, I don't know how to interpret what I found. This thread has some good photos and quality advice so I figured I'd post on here as opposed to starting an entirely new thread. I hope the OP doesn't mind.
Cylinder #1 looks "normal" best I can tell from reading hundreds of threads/posts and looking at as many photos/videos that I can find. I didn't get the best pics of this cylinder but given the condition of what I see, I'm not overly concerned about this. I'm mainly posting these photos for a reference for the other banks front cylinder.
Cylinder #1 Cylinder #1
Cylinder #5 however, has me a little perplexed. In all of the photos/videos I've seen on bore scoring (or just normal wear) from M157's, I haven't come across one that looks like what I'm seeing in my car. I can't tell if it's the cylinder wall coating failing, some type of corrosion, oil build up, the beginning of serious bore scoring or something else. I also don't know whether to be concerned about it or not. And I don't know if it's just oil, or some other type of deposit, on the cylinder wall, should I run some type of cleaning agent through the engine? I've already purchased some Liqui Moly Cera Tec that I plan to put in the my next oil change (or maybe now, TBD). I just did an oil change at the time I took these photos/video and I've sent an oil sample off to Blackstone. I also just unplugged my oil solenoid and had planned to send the next oil sample off as well, just to see if there was any significant changes.
Anyway, I started this process because I plan to install new plugs in the next 5K miles and if I decide to tune the car I'm going to drop down one heat range in plugs. But given my rising concern in general and due to the below pics, I may just end up leaving it stock... which is tough for me, lol. My point is, I plan to scope all of the cylinders when I go to do the plugs but I haven't done that yet, as I don't know which direction I'm going at the moment. Either way, I'd love some feedback from those more knowledgeable on this engine and this particular issue than myself. I've rebuilt a couple of engines and I'm fairly mechanically inclined but I'm quite green to this engine and platform in general, so I appreciate any information/input you might have to offer.
***There is a borescope video clip attached below as well... I couldn't figure out how to embed it.
VERY hard to tell from borescope pictures over the internet so don’t panic….
To me, that looks like a metallic bonding issue. Like the car sat for a while with water in that cylinder bore at TDC and then was started..
Could be from detonation/preignition which causes most of the cylinder damage that gets posted.
I’d do a leak down.
VERY hard to tell from borescope pictures over the internet so don’t panic….
To me, that looks like a metallic bonding issue. Like the car sat for a while with water in that cylinder bore at TDC and then was started..
Could be from detonation/preignition which causes most of the cylinder damage that gets posted.
I’d do a leak down.
Do you know the history of the car?
Good Luck
Yes, to knowing the history of the car. I bought it from the second owner who had owned it for four years and only put ~12K miles on it. He bought it from the original owner, who in the previous four years had only put ~20K miles on it. It was/is a super clean car and has lived a well cared for life.
Yes, to knowing the history of the car. I bought it from the second owner who had owned it for four years and only put ~12K miles on it. He bought it from the original owner, who in the previous four years had only put ~20K miles on it. It was/is a super clean car and has lived a well cared for life.
See the attachment for cylinder wall inspection from MB (posted it in post #16 (and Silitec was posted in post #18)
The corrosion/rust from page 4-7 would be the same whether Silitec or Nanoslide….
I would do a leak down for piece of mind, but if you hadn’t looked, it might run that way, past 100k miles.
There are some things you can’t unsee…
Good Luck
Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 26, 2024 at 12:12 AM.
Plenty of M157/M278's are making it past 100k, but they probably aren't being raced or beaten hard and are pretty well maintained.
So, what modern car and modern engine WILL make it past 100k? The fact is, the idiot "environmentalists" who are demanding more (power) from less volume, never, not ever comprehend creating power requires movement of volumes of air (for instance, an NA V8, high rev 6 and turbo 4 will CONSUME the same air and fuel for the same HP). Then, we toss away the baby with the bathwater with "Small" eco engines that die at <50k..I have seen more issues with high compression, high rev 2.0 engines. We just notice it more with the W212 as we LOOK (as we are on this forum) and there are just not many of them out there in the big picture.
Last edited by OldManAndHisCar; Mar 26, 2024 at 06:40 AM.
So, what modern car and modern engine WILL make it past 100k? The fact is, the idiot "environmentalists" who are demanding more (power) from less volume, never, not ever comprehend creating power requires movement of volumes of air (for instance, an NA V8, high rev 6 and turbo 4 will CONSUME the same air and fuel for the same HP). Then, we toss away the baby with the bathwater with "Small" eco engines that die at <50k..I have seen more issues with high compression, high rev 2.0 engines. We just notice it more with the W212 as we LOOK (as we are on this forum) and there are just not many of them out there in the big picture.
Hey, my small eco M274 4cyl has close to 150,000 miles and it's still chugging along with relatively clean cylinder walls. Leak down test shows 1-2% loss of air and compression test shows same on all cylinders.
However, on my previous W212 E63 I had complete cylinder wall scoring and a leak down showed signs of piston slap/bent rods. Regular oil changes at 5K with fully synthetic Mobil 1 oil from MB, mobil 1 93 octane fuel, and always let the car warm up when cold for 3-5 minutes before taking off. I sold the car (i let the buyer know about the pictures and leak down test), and two months later the engine exploded basically. The E63 only had 45,000 miles. No tune, no drag racing, no beating on it. I think it's the quality of parts and assembling of parts at the MB factory. So it just depends on how lucky one gets. OP's cylinders look fine to me and nothing like what mine looked like when I sold my E63.
@CarCrazyRDM - That isn't anything to worry about. It's just either carbon or some deposits on the wall. I would honestly use a thinner oil for about 100-200 miles to scrape that stuff off (don't beat on it) and then change the oil with the recommended thicker oil to protect it. I did that before I rebuilt my M157 on my CLS63. Took pictures before i took it apart and saw the deposits on the walls. When i took apart the block it was gone after thinning out the oil.
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