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Anything to note about refilling the cooling system - bleeders anywhere ? or the overflow does it all just have to burp the air & keep an eye on the level .
The engine coolant system pretty well self primed on its own, I had to add just a bit more to it once it burped good.
The intercooler however was a pain in the backside. I had to let it idle with the cap off the reservoir for over an hour to get the intercooler pump to kick on enough times to get all the air out. It took me 2 1/2 gallons to fill the engine coolant loop, and it took right at a gallon to do the intercooler.
The engine coolant system pretty well self primed on its own, I had to add just a bit more to it once it burped good.
The intercooler however was a pain in the backside. I had to let it idle with the cap off the reservoir for over an hour to get the intercooler pump to kick on enough times to get all the air out. It took me 2 1/2 gallons to fill the engine coolant loop, and it took right at a gallon to do the intercooler.
Sounds good , yes on the intercooler pump . I remember it on my E55 . Wonder if the IC pump can be jumped to run like the e55's to aid in bleeding it out . Thanks for the info ..
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by Wagon_mafia
Well, it is successfully back together. I’ve been working on cars for over 20 years and that is easily one of the longer and more difficult jobs I have done.
Knock on wood, no leaks so far. Will keep a hawk eye on the coolant tank for the next few days, but I think it was a successful job! It even feels a bit quicker, probably from the straightened cooler fins, or maybe it’s just all in my head after driving my wife’s Alfa for a 2 weeks, the Merc feels like a rocket ship.
Any snazzy trucks to route the lines off. I'm in the middle of it now and it's quickly becoming "fun".
As it stands, the my return was so brittle that the inlet snapped at both the line anlinipole in the block.
It was actually harder to get the old lines out than the new ones in, believe it or not. The drivers side is harder than the passengers side. Make sure you loosen the oil cooler lines and tape a bag around the ends, laying them back out of the way; otherwise I think it’s impossible with those in the way. And undo the couple of clamps holding the lines together too..
they both will go in one at a time, but it takes some patience. They sort of route in from the front, just below the turbo inlet suction side.
One other thing, they stack on one another so they’re held in with one bolt through both tabs, as such one is slightly longer than the other. Make sure you get them the right way.
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Yup. I have them free. Going through the fun of finagaling the upper one now. Seems like my hangup is the ac line. However, that was at midnight so I'm about to tackle it with a clearer head.
Oh, and here's the other fun I'm dealing with. Guess what's missing from this part and still stuck in the engine?
Good info here , i'll be creeping up near 80k towards the end of this year . May do these lines & the water pump/t-stat before any failures ha. Does anyone happen to have a pic. of their parts invoice for a 14+ , trying to compile a parts list , hoses ,oring's etc. hate to need something additional halfway through.. I will upload all parts & some diy pics to add on when I go for it
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by Wagon_mafia
One other thing, they stack on one another so they’re held in with one bolt through both tabs, as such one is slightly longer than the other. Make sure you get them the right way.
On a happier note and with a clearer head, got the upper one off. Time for the lower off.
When it's time to do this again, I'm contemplating just hitting it with my purse and let some other poor ******* deal with this headache.
I recommend you do the water pump, the belt, belt idlers, and thermostat “while you’re in there”. You have to tear all this stuff down to do a water pump, so you might as well replace it as well while you’re in there.
Mine was actually in its way out, it was tight and was squeaking when turned by hand, so, they have a lifespan of around 100k miles. WANTED!, that fitting that’s stuck in your motor is actually stuck in the water pump, so that will fix that issue for you if you do the pump. There is a specific torque sequence and very low torque on the bolts, I have it saved as a picture on my phone. I can upload that later tonight.
There is also a little plastic crossover loop line in front of the water pump too that should be replaced, and there are plastic plugs in the water pump too, depending on if you have an S or not with the auxiliary cooler.
I can pull up my invoice from AutohausAZ later and post it. I also did the main radiator lines too, as both mine were stuck and I had to really yank on them to get them out of the motor. I was worried I’d damaged them.
The easiest way to get the lines out of the turbo is to use a long flat blade screwdriver to reach down there and wedge them off. To get them back in, I lightly greased the O rings with some white grease and then used a long 3/8” ratchet extension wedges between the line and the frame rail to force them in.
Yup. I have them free. Going through the fun of finagaling the upper one now. Seems like my hangup is the ac line. However, that was at midnight so I'm about to tackle it with a clearer head.
Oh, and here's the other fun I'm dealing with. Guess what's missing from this part and still stuck in the engine?
That AC line is in about the worst possible spot. I Got fed up and grabbed it and gently bent it a few degrees toward the fender, just enough to give me the clearance I needed. Be gentle doing that though, and only do it once, it’s aluminum. DO NOT bend it back afterward, it will weaken the line.
I recommend you do the water pump, the belt, belt idlers, and thermostat “while you’re in there”. You have to tear all this stuff down to do a water pump, so you might as well replace it as well while you’re in there.
Mine was actually in its way out, it was tight and was squeaking when turned by hand, so, they have a lifespan of around 100k miles. WANTED!, that fitting that’s stuck in your motor is actually stuck in the water pump, so that will fix that issue for you if you do the pump. There is a specific torque sequence and very low torque on the bolts, I have it saved as a picture on my phone. I can upload that later tonight.
There is also a little plastic crossover loop line in front of the water pump too that should be replaced, and there are plastic plugs in the water pump too, depending on if you have an S or not with the auxiliary cooler.
I can pull up my invoice from AutohausAZ later and post it. I also did the main radiator lines too, as both mine were stuck and I had to really yank on them to get them out of the motor. I was worried I’d damaged them.
The easiest way to get the lines out of the turbo is to use a long flat blade screwdriver to reach down there and wedge them off. To get them back in, I lightly greased the O rings with some white grease and then used a long 3/8” ratchet extension wedges between the line and the frame rail to force them in.
Sounds good on the invoice appreciate it . Yes on the tensioner etc. adding it all on to the while you there list lol . I have the bolt torques but not the sequence - attached it .
Here is everything I ordered, along with screenshots of useful docs…. Turns out the new parts come with O rings and I didn’t need to order those, so, yeah…
Last edited by Wagon_mafia; 11-22-2021 at 04:52 PM.
My IC pump wasn’t bled properly after Mercedes’ did a big service job. Had it bled two weeks ago and system tested no leaks. Also after proper bled my
fan wasn’t on like crazy in traffic/idle.
i notice after 500 miles of driving small drops of coolant on the garage floor right next to the driver wheel. Leaking by driver side of motor. It’s dripping from somewhere “above”. I drove around a little bit and parked and didn’t see any more leaks.
Drove again yesterday and noticed no leaks. After sitting over night another small few drops.
main coolant tank is full
IC tank is 1/3 full
When these lines leak does it cause dripping on the bottom? Which tank would lose coolant from them leaking?
is this a must now or ok to top off and drive for a few weeks? Nobody can get me in before the holidays it’s as of right now my only car available
- reason I ask on my old bmw m V8tt cars and bmw v8tt cars you could drive a good amount as long as you refilled check coolant. On my RR and any LR with the 5.0/3.0sc or NA motor a leak can cause overheat condition as it’ll dump all coolant out quickly.
2011 S63 , 1997 SL500 La costa edition (sold) 1987 560SEC (sold)
Originally Posted by Baltistyle
You can also use a long thin flexible head ratchet with a 1/4” socket that fits tightly, e socket not truly needed. That made it a one minute job vs struggling with making a contraption. This was a hard one for me, and harbor freight was around the corner to help. It’s either this, or jacking, removing undertrays and wheel. and going from the wheel well.
How are you gonna go from the wheel well? are you suggesting cutting a hole into it? BTW the 1/4" with an 8mm would not work, I managed to loosen it , but if I had went any further then loosen it would get stuck in there no room in the back , infact I almost got stuck, and yes I use HF long thin flex ratchet.
11-10-2021 | 11:20 PM
