Light Batteries




Still searching online for a lithium auxiliary battery too. I figure for that one anything 200 CCA and above will work OK.
Main Battery:
8lbs
https://www.voltphreaks.com/catalog/...products_id=35
14lbs
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h6-rs/
Auxillary Battery
Still looking and verifying sizes
You'll have to disconnect the IBS sensor located in the negative battery terminal so the alternator charges it properly.



Why bother?
Would be more appropriate in a sportscar, hunting laptimes.
You won't even get better mileage either.
Worst case, the cars charging system will kill it prematurely.
I've been running them for over 3+ years on all of my cars and I've never had any issues with them. I would never go back to those heavy batteries.




The track is close and I love it.
I found 45 lbs here and 40lbs there already and it should net 0.06 reduction. If I find another 40lbs I’ll hit my 0.5 number.
It adds up quick and makes a difference.
Why bother? It’s fun for me.
I'll just do all of these weight reduction mods over time as maintenance items. (Except for the wheels... those are just a fun toy.)
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giro disc rotors save a good amount of weight coupled with light weight wheels can save anywhere from 30-50lbs then finding the lightest tire combination like the conti pro 6 are 6-8 lbs lighter then the average tire of the same size. Usually my goal is to attempt to move my own body weight from a car it’s attainable and fun to do . I’m almost at my goal . Once I get my new recaro seats I will have saved almost 200 lbs which is more then my goal .
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




giro disc rotors save a good amount of weight coupled with light weight wheels can save anywhere from 30-50lbs then finding the lightest tire combination like the conti pro 6 are 6-8 lbs lighter then the average tire of the same size. Usually my goal is to attempt to move my own body weight from a car it’s attainable and fun to do . I’m almost at my goal . Once I get my new recaro seats I will have saved almost 200 lbs which is more then my goal .
Another benefit is that weight loss performs all the time - braking, turning, acceleration..
AND, a lighter car is easier on parts.
ENJOY!!!
It's addicting. I easily got 700lbs out of my drag car and still had stock doors, glass, frame, etc. etc. just have to be smart with parts selection. That wasn't even going hardcore.
(No that is not my goal for the E63 lol)
Battery- 25 lbs
Wheels- save 50 lbs for $5000
Tires: save another 20 lbs- $450 extra
CCB brakes- 40 lbs- used set $6000
Exhaust /DP: save at least 60 lbs- $6000
Get Racing seats : save 200 lbs ---- $3500
Renntech tune : ---------------------------$2900
Total weight savings---- 400 lbs- Total money spent: $24,000
I think with 4000 lb savings you would shave off at least .90 off your time if not more...
Lowering weight while keeping the safety is never going to be cheap. The above mentioned items are all proven ways to lower the weight.
Stock wagon weighs 4674 lbs--
Stock HP- 577
power/weight ratio: 8.1
Modded /reduced weight wagon:
weight: 4300 lbs---- could be lighter
Tuned ECU- R1 package: 696 HP
Power/weight ratio: 6.17
Pagani Zonda at 3.1 ---------------Porsche 918 at 3.5--------------Porsche 991 Turbo at 4.63
If we increase the power, we got to reduce the rotational mass and good tires
With the above mentioned mods, you would have one of a kind and fast and fun 2016 E63s Wagon
Last edited by C2 Turbo; Feb 3, 2022 at 08:50 PM.




Still searching online for a lithium auxiliary battery too. I figure for that one anything 200 CCA and above will work OK.
Main Battery:
8lbs
https://www.voltphreaks.com/catalog/...products_id=35
14lbs
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h6-rs/
Auxillary Battery
Still looking and verifying sizes




10 lbs
https://braillebattery.com/collectio...products/i48cx
Volt Phreaks is lighter.












So light the scale wouldn’t work. I had to hold it and weigh myself with and without the battery. It weighs 8 lbs!
8.4 lbs vs 50.8
I had to weigh it with me and subtract it.
Vroom Vroom








First drive today.
I threw the stock battery and a 10mm in the back just in case for this week
I welcome better tech and look forward to automakers adoption. It may be difficult to justify 4X price premium for a battery in a 4,300 lbs daily driver, but for a racecar is a different story. I do wonder about the Li-Ion operating temperature range. Isn't it ideally +15°C to +35°C? One can broaden this range by heating and cooling. They do it in drones, Teslas, etc. Li-Ion pales in comparison to AGM range -40°C to +50°C which prevails in habitable parts of the world.
EDIT: I looked up Antigravity's operating temp range. The company states "This product is designed to work in ambient temperatures between -5°C to 60°C (23°F to 140°F)... Do not charge a frozen battery. Only charge within the range of 0°C to 45°C (33°F to 113°F)." If we consider the alternator current charging, then the effective operating range is the latter. Use in TX, AR, LA, FL shall be within range most of the time. With ambient below 0°C, one can always take the Antigravity home and keep it by the fireplace. This will not be me though.

Tesla and other electric automakers solve this problem by engineering the battery temp management. It can be done to a degree because of vast battery pack capacity ~6,000Ah. One can try to trade-off 10-20% capacity overnight for self-heating in cold weather. This won't work in a 90Ah battery... let alone in a 24Ah Antigravity. This tech remains special purpose/use.
Last edited by maxusa; Oct 9, 2022 at 02:07 AM.




I now have winter tires and a winter battery!
It’s a good point to know. Don’t want to be stranded watching the car burn.


