I found these two for the main battery. Anyone use either?

Still searching online for a lithium auxiliary battery too. I figure for that one anything 200 CCA and above will work OK.

Main Battery:
8lbs
https://www.voltphreaks.com/catalog/...products_id=35

14lbs
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h6-rs/

Auxillary Battery
Still looking and verifying sizes

 

Not sure whats involved but I would think the smaller aux battery would still need charge management built in to be compatible?

 

I run the Antigravity H6, a solid 45lbs weight reduction from the factory battery.

You'll have to disconnect the IBS sensor located in the negative battery terminal so the alternator charges it properly.

 

In a car that weighs over 2 tons?
Why bother?
Would be more appropriate in a sportscar, hunting laptimes.
You won't even get better mileage either.
Worst case, the cars charging system will kill it prematurely.

 

Lithium-ion batteries have much higher Cranking Amps than factory AGM batteries. They're ultra-light weight, have built-in battery discharge protection and offer 7-9 year life range.

I've been running them for over 3+ years on all of my cars and I've never had any issues with them. I would never go back to those heavy batteries.

 

I am chasing 0.08 in the 1/4 from last season to hit a 0.5 Next will be 0.4 then 0.3 then…

The track is close and I love it.

I found 45 lbs here and 40lbs there already and it should net 0.06 reduction. If I find another 40lbs I’ll hit my 0.5 number.

It adds up quick and makes a difference.

Why bother? It’s fun for me.

 

I'm loving these light weight threads. Keep it going.

I'll just do all of these weight reduction mods over time as maintenance items. (Except for the wheels... those are just a fun toy.)

 

it’s ridiculous how people sound commenting how it’s not worth this or that. Telling you how to spend your money. It adds up .and if it didn’t so be it . I personally love saving weight where I can .


giro disc rotors save a good amount of weight coupled with light weight wheels can save anywhere from 30-50lbs then finding the lightest tire combination like the conti pro 6 are 6-8 lbs lighter then the average tire of the same size. Usually my goal is to attempt to move my own body weight from a car it’s attainable and fun to do . I’m almost at my goal . Once I get my new recaro seats I will have saved almost 200 lbs which is more then my goal .

 

200 lbs is worth 0.16 in the 1/4 on our cars and that's not even taking into account a lot of what we change is rotating mass. When things are dialed in 0.16 is huge in the 1/4.

Another benefit is that weight loss performs all the time - braking, turning, acceleration..
AND, a lighter car is easier on parts.

ENJOY!!!

It's addicting. I easily got 700lbs out of my drag car and still had stock doors, glass, frame, etc. etc. just have to be smart with parts selection. That wasn't even going hardcore.

(No that is not my goal for the E63 lol)

 

Some weight saving tips
Battery- 25 lbs
Wheels- save 50 lbs for $5000
Tires: save another 20 lbs- $450 extra
CCB brakes- 40 lbs- used set $6000
Exhaust /DP: save at least 60 lbs- $6000
Get Racing seats : save 200 lbs ---- $3500
Renntech tune : ---------------------------$2900

Total weight savings---- 400 lbs- Total money spent: $24,000

I think with 4000 lb savings you would shave off at least .90 off your time if not more...

Lowering weight while keeping the safety is never going to be cheap. The above mentioned items are all proven ways to lower the weight.

Stock wagon weighs 4674 lbs--
Stock HP- 577
power/weight ratio: 8.1

Modded /reduced weight wagon:
weight: 4300 lbs---- could be lighter
Tuned ECU- R1 package: 696 HP
Power/weight ratio: 6.17

Pagani Zonda at 3.1 ---------------Porsche 918 at 3.5--------------Porsche 991 Turbo at 4.63

If we increase the power, we got to reduce the rotational mass and good tires

With the above mentioned mods, you would have one of a kind and fast and fun 2016 E63s Wagon

 

So anyone use Volt Phreaks or can someone smarter in Battery Tech comment? I’m leaning that way over Antigravity but don’t know enough about the tech. The numbers seem same/better on Volt Phreaks and it’s a lot lighter… what am I missing?

 

Found a better one, if group 48 is same as H6?!

10 lbs
https://braillebattery.com/collectio...products/i48cx

 

Antigravity is cheaper, can have more cranking amps, lasts for a longer time in storage, has a longer warranty, and has built-in jump starting technology.

Volt Phreaks is lighter.

 

I went with the 10 lb antigravity

 

Value? What do you think you'll gain with this Wright savings

 

Lighter battery, lighter brakes, and maybe wheels too - new PS4’s - I’m only looking for 0.08 reduction in 1/4 mile to a 11.5x. Then I install my already purchased EDOK TCU tune, see what that nets, then next is the Blackboost Intake that’s still in the box. After I wring out every last tenth with that combo it’s 94 octane ECU Dynotune time.

 

Nice! And after that you will hit under 11 in 1/4 mile.

 

Finally charged and installed.

So light the scale wouldn’t work. I had to hold it and weigh myself with and without the battery. It weighs 8 lbs!

8.4 lbs vs 50.8



I had to weigh it with me and subtract it.




Vroom Vroom

 

So just unplug the sensor clip from the negative terminal?

 

Yup, unplug the IBS connector from the negative battery terminal. I had to learn that the hard way when I tried driving the car for 2 hours and almost ran out of juice until I got home and unplugged it. No issues ever since then.

 

Wish I had known that, just changed the battery few months ago, gotta wait at least 4 years now

 

Perfect. Done!
First drive today.
I threw the stock battery and a 10mm in the back just in case for this week

 

Dang it but I left the 13mm at home. Hah. I'm a slow learner in the school of hard knocks LOL

 

I went the other way for $180.03 installed EverStart Platinum AGM, Group Size H8, CCA 900 (CA 1,125), Reserve 160 min, 95Ah. Fits perfectly in W212. Made by Johnson Controls (Clarios) and/or East Penn. The motor cranks like on steroids, all random electrical errors such as proximity sensors are history. The original Mercedes Varta (by Clarios) lasted 9 years.



I welcome better tech and look forward to automakers adoption. It may be difficult to justify 4X price premium for a battery in a 4,300 lbs daily driver, but for a racecar is a different story. I do wonder about the Li-Ion operating temperature range. Isn't it ideally +15°C to +35°C? One can broaden this range by heating and cooling. They do it in drones, Teslas, etc. Li-Ion pales in comparison to AGM range -40°C to +50°C which prevails in habitable parts of the world.

EDIT: I looked up Antigravity's operating temp range. The company states "This product is designed to work in ambient temperatures between -5°C to 60°C (23°F to 140°F)... Do not charge a frozen battery. Only charge within the range of 0°C to 45°C (33°F to 113°F)." If we consider the alternator current charging, then the effective operating range is the latter. Use in TX, AR, LA, FL shall be within range most of the time. With ambient below 0°C, one can always take the Antigravity home and keep it by the fireplace. This will not be me though.

Tesla and other electric automakers solve this problem by engineering the battery temp management. It can be done to a degree because of vast battery pack capacity ~6,000Ah. One can try to trade-off 10-20% capacity overnight for self-heating in cold weather. This won't work in a 90Ah battery... let alone in a 24Ah Antigravity. This tech remains special purpose/use.

 

Agree! I thought about it before purchase.
I now have winter tires and a winter battery!

It’s a good point to know. Don’t want to be stranded watching the car burn.